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How would one judge the accuracy of these meters? At least with a thermometer you have some sense of whether it’s within the ball park.
In this case to me the accuracy is secondary; it's really the repeatability that's important. If you take a reading over time under the same conditions (distance, etc) then if you see wildly different numbers it should indicate something is starting to go wrong; for instance it may mean that the intake or exhaust are getting partially clogged.

Of course a real, calibrated combustion analyzer would be ideal, but they're 20 times the price of the cheap meters.
 
I rolled a paper towel up tight and swabbed the interior of the exhaust pipe as far as I could reach. It came out clean. This is after probably 100 hours of running on the lowest setting, admittedly at low altitude because that’s where we are in winter.
MsNomer, you have the best test, the poo test.
And you get me thinking, not always a bad idea.
How about Ethanol Residue? I find it in the float bowls and fuel supply orifices of the gasoline powered garden equipment, 2 and 4 stroke.
Just bought a new chain saw, the guy told me to use non-ethanol fuel, said I would save a lot of trouble.
 
MsNomer, you have the best test, the poo test.
And you get me thinking, not always a bad idea.
How about Ethanol Residue? I find it in the float bowls and fuel supply orifices of the gasoline powered garden equipment, 2 and 4 stroke.
Just bought a new chain saw, the guy told me to use non-ethanol fuel, said I would save a lot of trouble.
Yup 👍

I started up my Honda power-washer after it sat for 2 years 😳. I thought it would be a bear to start, but once hooked up to the water & the choke on it fired up 2nd pull.

I have never run Ethanol gasoline thru it. I have many gasoline engines that I run higher grade fuel thru them in order to eliminate the Ethanol issue. Listen to those small engine repair guys & motorcycle mechanics, they fix that stuff.

I wonder how the “green audits” take into account all of the added carbon footprint for repairing gasoline engines that are screwed up with ethanol gasoline. Including buying new products, or the industry required to repair such small engines.

I noticed at my closest gas station, the three grades of gasoline that they sell now might have 10% ethanol in all of them 😡.
 
Yup 👍

I started up my Honda power-washer after it sat for 2 years 😳. I thought it would be a bear to start, but once hooked up to the water & the choke on it fired up 2nd pull.

I have never run Ethanol gasoline thru it. I have many gasoline engines that I run higher grade fuel thru them in order to eliminate the Ethanol issue. Listen to those small engine repair guys & motorcycle mechanics, they fix that stuff.

I wonder how the “green audits” take into account all of the added carbon footprint for repairing gasoline engines that are screwed up with ethanol gasoline. Including buying new products, or the industry required to repair such small engines.

I noticed at my closest gas station, the three grades of gasoline that they sell now might have 10% ethanol in all of them 😡.
Webasto and Eberspacher both state officially that their heaters are compatible with E10. Intrinsically there is little to "gum up" provided that you run the heater monthly as per the manual. The biggest risk is to elastomer or plastic parts like hoses and such.
Anyway as you point out in Canada at least it is virtually impossible to buy gasoline that does not contain ethanol so it is a bit of an academic problem.
 
I noticed at my closest gas station, the three grades of gasoline that they sell now might have 10% ethanol in all of them 😡.
AFAIK, the Co-op's premium grade is still ethanol free. You should certainly run that in old engines that were built before they began adding ethanol to gas. Modern cars and chainsaws (etc) are designed for it. Check your owners manual. My Stihl chainsaw can take up to 10%. As for parking heaters, I agree with @Pierre O. Not something to worry about.
 
AFAIK, the Co-op's premium grade is still ethanol free. You should certainly run that in old engines that were built before they began adding ethanol to gas. Modern cars and chainsaws (etc) are designed for it. Check your owners manual. My Stihl chainsaw can take up to 10%. As for parking heaters, I agree with @Pierre O. Not something to worry about.
Coincidentally it was a CO-OP & all 3 grades they have all stated on the pumps could have 10% Ethanol.

This was new to me 😳. As before I recall it was 10% / 5% / Zero ethanol ( now 10% / 10% / 10% ).

Yup, my commercial chainsaw “Husky” IIRC I bought in 2016. There is a difference between allowances in an owners manual possibly mandated by Govt, & “Best Practices” verbally provided @ the repair shop ( they ain’t making money on the premium gas with zero ethanol & I would submit they are actually loosing money in repair revenue ).

My life experience seems similar to @RobPromaster ,,, I have no problem running it and in my Promaster, but not the in my motobikes or gen sets, or other small engines.

I’m going to trust the “repair shop mechanics”.

Sounds like it is no issue with these gasoline heaters 👍 ,,, I would not know.

I Just checked the interweb thingy ,,, apparently it is a thing;




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Like Usual; I Seem to be a Day Late & a Dollar Short ,,,
 
Coincidentally it was a CO-OP & all 3 grades they have all stated on the pumps could have 10% Ethanol.

This was new to me 😳. As before I recall it was 10% / 5% / Zero ethanol.

Yup, my commercial chainsaw “Husky” IIRC I bought in 2016. There is a difference between allowances in an owners manual possibly mandated by Govt, & “Best Practices” verbally provided @ the repair shop.

My life experience seems similar to @RobPromaster ,,, I have no problem running it and in my Promaster, but not the in my motobikes or gen sets, or other small engines.

I’m going to trust the “repair shop mechanics”.

Sounds like it is no issue with these gasoline heaters 👍 ,,, I would not know.
Normally it is carburated engines, especially engines that are used infrequently, that are most problematic. A gasoline heater doesn't have a carburator or really any place that the fuel can accumulate and separate. If you don't use a fuel filter (I don't) all the fuel gets recycled in less than 1 minute. The fuel pickup is also away from the bottom of the tank.
Maybe it will clog the burner inlet or the fuel pump a bit quicker, we'll see. But certainly I'm not going to have a separate tank with non-ethanol gas for the heater, it would defeat the purpose of having a gasoline heater.
The only small engine I own is that in our snowblower and I have not noticed any issues with ethanol but it's not very old (17 years old) and lives a pampered life, spending the winter in our heated garage.
 
Coincidentally it was a CO-OP & all 3 grades they have all stated on the pumps could have 10% Ethanol.
This was new to me 😳. As before I recall it was 10% / 5% / Zero ethanol ( now 10% / 10% / 10% ).
New to me, too! Apparently, I haven't been paying attention at the pump!
Similar thing happened in about 2006 when ultra-low-sulphur diesel quietly replaced regular diesel. I didn't hear about it. A few months later, the mechanical fuel injection pump in our 1981 VW diesel died due to lack of sulphur lubrication. At that point, a new pump was worth more than the car, which was growing mushrooms in the carpet (not the good kind). :p
 
Well managed to remove my diesel heater and install my new Velit Heater. Had some minor issues but after the installation the initial push of the start button brought it to life. I ran it a few times today, confirming the new firmware to shut it down when it reaches set temp +3 degrees. I find it way quieter and the diesel heater it is replacing and the exhaust is noticeably cooler on the Velit Heater. I did use the adapter for the aux port on the fuel ending unit, maybe later I will remove the ending unit and install the separate standpipe as recommended by Velit.
 
I rolled a paper towel up tight and swabbed the interior of the exhaust pipe as far as I could reach. It came out clean. This is after probably 100 hours of running on the lowest setting, admittedly at low altitude because that’s where we are in winter.
MsNomer,
I have spent several hours trying to revive my cranky Webasto heater without success, so I have been considering alternatives. Velit sent me a manual for their 5KW heater. The kit comes with a Dorman quick connect fitting that attaches to the Protester's auxiliary line but the manual says to use a narrower diameter standpipe at altitudes over 5000 ft. However, the manual also says that the standpipe provided in the kit is not suitable for plastic fuel tanks.
What did you and MrNomer do about the fuel source? Did you source another standpipe? And, if so, what was it like to remove the existing auxiliary port and replace it? It seems a bit intimidating to me although I have replaced tank mounted fuel pumps before.
Thanks for your contributions to this forum and thanks for leading the exploration of Webasto alternatives.
 
I believe the kit they are shipping now includes a standpipe suitable for our tank. Leave the original alone and install the new one nearby. The fuel sending unit comes out for this.
I'm follow this discussion with interest. I'm also wondering if Velit's supplied standpipe is the "right" length for a Promaster. I remember reading a Webasto/Espar(?) manual that said to trim theirs to a specified distance above the bottom of your particular tank so that there would always be some fuel reserved for the engine.
 
Sending unit is under the cover on the floor between the seats. You need this and about a 2’ cheater bar. Unlike Transit, fuel tank stays put.

 
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