You dont need a "garage" in the van. You can have a murphy bed attached to the horizontal rib which will swing up to the roof allowing for up to a twin size mattress. This bed when folded down has plenty of clearance underneath. When folded up takes no more room then the wheel well. Also this becomes a defacto bunk bed because someone can also sleep underneath on a mat.

edit: Maybe a super high would allow for a full?

 

You dont need a "garage" in the van. You can have a murphy bed attached to the horizontal rib which will swing up to the roof allowing for up to a twin size mattress. This bed when folded down has plenty of clearance underneath. When folded up takes no more room then the wheel well.

Thanks for phrasing it that way. Some things like garages are unnecessarily simply because they fall under personal priorities and preferences. One of our top design priorities was a fixed bed with a garage underneath. A list of conversion myths should leave lots of room for personal priorities and preferences.

 

There should be a stickered section for newbies.

 

That's a good idea! In the meantime, maybe @keeponvaning can pin this thread to this section along with @RDinNHandAZ's "Before you begin your build!".

 

Ooo, framing isn't necessary? So as soon as I insulate my walls I can start putting my wooden ship lap walls on to the van with what? I bought wood screws, sheet metal screws, and even liquid nails lol. Which one should I use for the walls?

 

Without framing, you would attach your shiplap directly to the van's metal ribs, channels, and pillars the same way you were going to attach the framing, with sheet metal screws, or bolts and rivnuts, or something similar. Of course, if you are more comfortable framing first, it's your choice. Either way, be extra careful not to put a drill or screw through the van's thin outer skin.

 

Van electrical system myths:

added ( things that people believe but are not true )

- MPPT solar charge controllers will always provide better results than a good quality PWM controller.

- LiFe is always a better choice than AGM batteries.

- If you don't build it completely by yourself, then you aren't a "real DIYer" and will never understand your van power system.

- All AGM and LiFe batteries are more or less the same.

- 24 volt power systems are more difficult and expensive to build than 12 volt systems.

 

Van electrical system myths:

Harry, Do you mind editing your post and adding a brief explanation for each of your myths? I think a lot of people might not really understand them.

 

- Insulating the floor is unnecessary and is not important for reducing heat loss

- Wind smoothing fairing across the front of a van roof rack reduces drag, when in fact it increases drag.

Gary

 

Stuck!😏

 

Are we stating myths or truths? Seems like some of each. This could get very confusing.

 

The title says Myths so I would assume myths

 

Myth: You need a roof rack for solar panels.

Flexible panels can be attached with no penetrative fasteners (though you still need a cable entry).

You may want a roof rack (you found a great deal on solar panels, you like the look, you do you, etc) but you do not need one for solar.

 

Myth: You need a roof rack for solar panels.

Flexible panels can be attached with no penetrative fasteners (though you still need a cable entry).

You may want a roof rack (you found a great deal on solar panels, you like the look, you do you, etc) but you do not need one for solar.

Good one! Mine are attached with just VHB tape. AM Solar has been doing it that way for years and has good DIY instructions.

 

@Baxsie

My NEXT van will not have a roof rack.

 

Plumbing Myths:
You need to install a carbon cartridge filter on the inlet to your water tank port (Camco style). This is wrong headed - it removes the chlorine that is necessary to protect the stored water in your tank. Instead install the filter on the outlet from your tank to protect what you use.

Plumbing MUST be in red and blue PEX to show how cool you are in watching all the videos and a contortionist to get the crimping tool into all those tight places. In reality choose what suits your skill and needs. I use stainless steel braided hose which are super flexible and have screwed fittings for simple install plus as a bonus are easily removable.

Grey water tanks need a big arsed empty port and hose. Wrong - leave the stinky slinky to those who have a black water tank. Most grey water tanks can be emptied using a standard garden hose fitting.

 

Plumbing Myths:
You need to install a carbon cartridge filter on the inlet to your water tank port (Camco style). This is wrong headed - it removes the chlorine that is necessary to protect the stored water in your tank. Instead install the filter on the outlet from your tank to protect what you use.

I use the filter on the outside all the time but I never read it reduces chlorine content until I saw this post. Checked the Camco site and it does indeed reduce Chlorine . Stopping use immediately since I want chlorine in the tank to prevent molding. Thanks for posting this.

 

Ever notice how some mistaken ideas just won't die? They take on an air of truth simply by being repeated over and over on the internet (YouTube, etc). Recognizing and disregarding these myths will save you time and money. Here are a few to get started:

1. Sheet-foam insulation (Poly-iso, XPS, etc) under a plywood floor will get crushed. NO, and there is a ton of real-world experience and published material specs refuting that notion. Think snowshoes and splatchers. And for the same reason, the floor valleys do NOT have to be filled. XPS is preferred for floors since it does not absorb water; poly-iso for walls and ceiling because it withstands higher temperatures. Hydrophobic batting (Thinsulate, Havelock wool, etc) works just as well on walls and ceiling.
2. Sound deadening mat (Kilmat, Noico, etc) is needed on surfaces that will also be insulated. NO, it isn't. Sure, it makes a noticeable difference before insulation, but it becomes redundant afterwards. Sound deadening mat reduces noise by dampening sheet-metal vibration. Insulation does the same thing when attached to sheet-metal surfaces.
3. Framing out the walls and ceiling with wood is necessary. NO, it isn't. It reduces valuable interior space. Embrace the curves instead. Finish walls and cabinets can be attached directly to the van's ribs and channels. Select finish wall materials flexible enough to conform to the slight wall and ceiling curves.
4. Levelling the whole van before beginning the conversion is necessary. NO, unlike a house, the van will not stay level during the conversion process, or afterwards. Instead, use the van’s floor as your reference plane and square everything to it (cabinets, etc). Likewise, suspension alterations to compensate for the van's original rake, i.e., the back being higher than the front, should NOT be undertaken before the conversion is finished, if at all. Added weight from conversion materials and equipment will reduce the rake. Plus, a perfectly level van will only be level on perfectly level camp sites, which are rare.
5. A Promaster can be transformed into an off-road beast with all the agility of a 4x4. NO, but with realistic expectations, good AT tires, and a cautious, skilful driver, a Promaster is still able to negotiate some pretty rough roads. Also be aware that some forum members have posted having problems with suspension lifts.
6. Buying and converting a diesel Promaster is a good idea. NO, it's most likely asking for trouble. The diesel version was only produced in limited numbers from 2014 to 2017 before it was discontinued. Its European engine and transmission have never been used in another North American vehicle before or since. Consequently, parts and knowledgeable mechanics are increasingly hard to find. Search this forum to learn more. The gas Promaster is just the opposite. Its engine and transmission are found in many other North American vehicles, most notably the ubiquitous Chrysler/Dodge minivan.

The floor foam getting crushed was super hard for me to believe. Ended up not putting supports, only foam and plywood. Zero issues, super strong

 

Thanks for the note. Already put sound deadeners in the valleys beneath the subfloor and dont want to mess with framing the insulation. Did you try and offset where the seams are or did it not make a difference. And how did you attach xps to metal floor, liquid nails?

Appreciate the help

 

You do not need full overland gear (roof rack, side ladders, rear door boxes, lift kits, etc) for a van conversion. These add excessive weight and drag to your build.

 

Hi,
That sounds more like truth than myth

Gary

 

Myth: Plumbing is necessary if you want hot water.

Myth: Plumbing is necessary.

 

Would dual alternators be a good one? It’s a topic I’ve seen come up a bunch of people swearing you need them, but it seems very guided by your needs and not a necessary thing.

 

The vast majority of us get by just fine with one, so two can't be a necessity unless you have unusual electrical needs. But this thread isn't the place to go into detail.

 

Myth: you can be happy with just one alternator.

 

??? The myth would be "you cannot be happy with just one alternator". This is an easy myth to prove false simply because so many of us are happy with just one alternator.

Another angle on the myth: No one needs a second alternator. Most won't need one, but it can be justified in some unusual situations.

 

Thank goodness my van is nearly done. I would be doing everything bass-ackwards.

Nearly done means done enough but with plans to finish. I think this is the permanent state of van. Maybe that is the next myth.

Myth: You will finish your van completely and never change anything ever.

 

Myth: You will finish your van completely and never change anything ever.

Now this myth is the granddaddy of them all!!!!

One reason to waste my days looking at all the wonderful posts on this forum is to devise new plans to alter/modify/fix/change/revise/undo and generally mess around in the PM.

 

You’d think that finishing walls would be part of Stage 1, but after 9 years and 15 cupgolders, I’m just now addressing the walls around the rear side windows. 🙄

 

Of course you lead the cupholder arms race 😁.

I'm not seeing it as stages, more like an overall measure of completeness. Surely yours is 95% today. Of course it can also regress at any given time if your vision changes!

 

MYTH: Plus-nuts are superior to Rivnuts. It seems to be an article of faith across the web-o-verse that Plus-nuts are better/stronger/less prone to spin-out. I mean, just look at 'em, they look so much burlier! But it's just not so. A properly installed Rivnut is plenty strong, easier to set properly, less expensive (both the tools and the nuts themselves), and I would argue less likely to spin than a Plus-nut. I've installed thousands of Rivnuts and never had one spin. The folks over at FarOutRide did an excellent test, for those who haven't seen it yet. The key is proper hole prep, and to set them with enough force. For people using the manual "bolt cutter-style" tool, that means more than a single full squeeze. If you're new to setting Rivnuts, save the sheet metal you cut out from your fan or window install and use it for practice, that way you can really see what's happening on the backside before you install Rivnuts in your walls. Final pro tip: use a tap to chase the threads after the nut is set, it only takes a few seconds, and helps ensure there will be no binding or cross-threading.

 

Does everyone use a moisture barrier under their flooring?

 

Myth?

 

You can’t fit more than 25 cables through the backup camera housing to avoid drilling a single hole in the van roof or sides other than for the fan and windows…

 

Ever notice how some mistaken ideas just won't die? They take on an air of truth simply by being repeated over and over on the internet (YouTube, etc). Recognizing and disregarding these myths will save you time and money. Here are a few to get started:

1. Sheet-foam insulation (Poly-iso, XPS, etc) under a plywood floor will get crushed. NO, and there is a ton of real-world experience and published material specs refuting that notion. Think snowshoes and splatchers. And for the same reason, the floor valleys do NOT have to be filled. XPS is preferred for floors since it does not absorb water; poly-iso for walls and ceiling because it withstands higher temperatures. Hydrophobic batting (Thinsulate, Havelock wool, etc) works just as well on walls and ceiling.
2. Sound deadening mat (Kilmat, Noico, etc) is needed on surfaces that will also be insulated. NO, it isn't. Sure, it makes a noticeable difference before insulation, but it becomes redundant afterwards. Sound deadening mat reduces noise by dampening sheet-metal vibration. Insulation does the same thing when attached to sheet-metal surfaces.
3. Framing out the walls and ceiling with wood is necessary. NO, it isn't. It reduces valuable interior space. Embrace the curves instead. Finish walls and cabinets can be attached directly to the van's ribs and channels. Select finish wall materials flexible enough to conform to the slight wall and ceiling curves.
4. Levelling the whole van before beginning the conversion is necessary. NO, unlike a house, the van will not stay level during the conversion process, or afterwards. Instead, use the van’s floor as your reference plane and square everything to it (cabinets, etc). Likewise, suspension alterations to compensate for the van's original rake, i.e., the back being higher than the front, should NOT be undertaken before the conversion is finished, if at all. Added weight from conversion materials and equipment will reduce the rake. Plus, a perfectly level van will only be level on perfectly level camp sites, which are rare.
5. A Promaster can be transformed into an off-road beast with all the agility of a 4x4. NO, but with realistic expectations, good AT tires, and a cautious, skilful driver, a Promaster is still able to negotiate some pretty rough roads. Also be aware that some forum members have posted having problems with suspension lifts.
6. Buying and converting a diesel Promaster is a good idea. NO, it's most likely asking for trouble. The diesel version was only produced in limited numbers from 2014 to 2017 before it was discontinued. Its European engine and transmission have never been used in another North American vehicle before or since. Consequently, parts and knowledgeable mechanics are increasingly hard to find. Search this forum to learn more. The gas Promaster is just the opposite. Its engine and transmission are found in many other North American vehicles, most notably the ubiquitous Chrysler/Dodge minivan.

EDIT: reformatted based on comments.

Wow! Thank you

 

Myth: Propane heat causes moisture.
Truth: Burning all fossil fuels create moisture. That moisture can go out of the van. I think this myth comes from the Mr Heater Buddy, which is just one brand of heater that doesn't vent. It happens to use propane so some people think propane is bad for heat.

Myth: You need to bolt/glue down your floor.
Truth: A floating floor doesn't move unless you flip the van. Go ahead and bolt away if you want the floor to stay put while all your cabinets fly around the van.

Myth: You need 3/4" plywood for cabinets.
Truth: Well constructed cabinets can be glued up from 1/2" plywood with zero problems.

Myth (mostly concerning full time): You can't have pets.
Truth: The majority of nomads have pets on the road and do just fine.

Myth (also concerning full time): You can't bring much stuff.
Truth: You'd be surprised how much can fit in a big van. People travel with bikes, motorbikes, surf/snowboards, kayaks, guitars, hand drums, an array of festival outfits, flow toys with white gas, house plants, ceramics, full workshops, etc.

Almost-myths (things I see a ton of people doing that don't really make sense):

Shiplap. OK fine if you really personally love being in a dark tunnel with parallel lines going long ways to make it seem smaller, adding extra weight and making the build a lot harder on yourself, by all means do it. But a lot of people just do it cuz they see someone else do it.

Same with puck lights. Why run one wire to strip lighting installed after the ceiling is up, and have less direct, even lighting, when you can run multiple wires all over above the ceiling and cut a bunch of holes in precise locations to have point lights?

AC. Some people really are happy with their AC running 2 hours a day in the summer. Most people don't use it and would rather have more roof space.

On demand water heaters. Most people I know who use one complain about it.

800Ah lithium with 300W solar. Please tell me how you plan to charge those batteries. Unless you are a weekender or hookup-camper, those extra 650 Ah will be almost useless.

On the topic of the Camco filter at the faucet before filling - I've done that for years and never had a water tank issue. I plan to keep doing it that way. I mostly do it as a first stage filter to keep crud out of my pump strainer.

 

Myth: Propane heat causes moisture.
Truth: Burning all fossil fuels create moisture. That moisture can go out of the van. I think this myth comes from the Mr Heater Buddy, which is just one brand of heater that doesn't vent. It happens to use propane so some people think propane is bad for heat.


Same with puck lights. Why run one wire to strip lighting installed after the ceiling is up, and have less direct, even lighting, when you can run multiple wires all over above the ceiling and cut a bunch of holes in precise locations to have point lights?



800Ah lithium with 300W solar. Please tell me how you plan to charge those batteries. Unless you are a weekender or hookup-camper, those extra 650 Ah will be almost useless.

I think it is also because many times the propane=water thing is brought up because someone is debating against cooking with propane vs electric.

puck lights... I like task lighting, I prefer the van darker at night and DH wants bright light to read. We also have task lighting over the cooktop so we can see well without being lit up like crazy in the whole van. We have four different circuits for different kinds of lighting plus some small rechargeable lights next to each side of the bed. I can turn a light on to use the bathroom at night that doesn't shine a lot where DH is asleep.

Big battery, low solar. Our first year with the van we didn't have any solar, we tend to move a lot so the alternator charged us. We have 400ah, ours is charged by midmorning most days so we could probably manage with less solar. I guess it depends if you need 800ah for daily use or if you have 800ah for less frequent use. If you have it so you can run heavy loads once or twice a week then you can slowly charge the batteries back up over the week, it will take more than a day if you don't have enough solar and you aren't driving. Or maybe they have a generator that they run for short periods because they are somewhere where it isn't allowed at night.

 

I have a question. Should I use the rest of my 3m thinsulate roll to shove in the nooks and crannies in my van? Or should I buy a small roll of pink insulation?

 

Thinsulate

 

Stuff it loosely, dont jam it in tight. Remember that the insulating is done by dead air.

 

MYTH: It’s OK to insulate the areas underneath all those black plastic triangles running along either side if the floor inside the van.

NO, it isn’t. The areas under the holes covered by the black triangles are called rocker panels. Some claim the holes are meant to drain moisture from inside the van. That may be another myth. But even if that was true, water can also enter the rockers through body gaps in wheel wells (etc) and around the fasteners holding the black plastic trim panels on the outside. Insulation can catch and hold water preventing it from evaporating or draining freely. That's a recipe for mould. Plus, most of the rocker surfaces are below floor level where insulation is pointless. Insulate over top of the black triangle holes, if you wish, but not inside them.

 

BS….Insulate wherever you can. Those areas are not totally below the floor. Of course if you like cold floors let it go.