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Renogy DC-DC Charger -- where to connect D+ ignition wire?

21K views 23 replies 12 participants last post by  drrichards  
#1 ·
I have a 2020 Ram Promaster. I have read every thread I can find about how others have done this. My desire is to find a place to connect the D+ wire that is only "on" when the engine is running.

NOTES FROM OTHER POSTS:
DIY Camper Van Electrical Diagram - Updated September 2020
"After some research I discovered that some Promaster vans (2016 or newer I think) have a “Upfitter Connector” on the passenger side “pillar” which is that area just behind the passenger seat where the seat belt connects to the van wall. If you remove the black plastic trim at the bottom of this “pillar” you’ll see a white multi-pin connector (photo below). This is the “upfitter connection” that provides a variety of connection points for the Promaster in one spot. This PDF file (Promaster Upfitter Connector Diagram PDF) details this connector including what each pin on the connector is/does. Turns out that pin #13 is an “ignition feed” that has 12 volt positive when the ignition switch is on. So, I used this to be the “trigger” for the Renogy DC to DC charger."

??? I tried this -- but on my van, the spot #13 is not hot ever.

DC-DC charge key-on 12v power
#26 · Jun 11, 2021 @Mcjoshin,
"For anyone who is reading this later and looking for a solution to where to tie in the D+ signal wire for the Renogy DC to DC charger (or any other DC-DC charger), we just wrapped up our first install of one and found a great solution I haven't seen mentioned elsewhere. We tied in to the fuel pump wire. It's an easy wire run inside the cabin or you can also come up from underneath the chassis since there's easy access where the fuel pump is. It clicks on for a quick second when you turn the key to ACC and the fuel pump primes and then shuts off. It only has constant power when the engine is running, so you don't have to worry about accidentally draining your starter battery when you have the key in ACC and you don't need a switch. You could still install a switch if you wanted control over it, but at least you wouldn't drain your starter battery if you ever forgot you had it on. Working great for us with no issues so far."

??? Where exactly can I find this "fuel pump wire"? Can anyone send a photo for a novice like me?

??? Any other ideas that have worked for others ???

Thank you!!
 
#8 ·
What number is this fuse? We have checked all of them -- and none are working in the configuration we need -- which is 12v ON when the engine is running (not when accessories are on).

We wonder how to attach to a fuse when it is not a jumper fuse. We are also concerned about the size of wire, and putting the Renogy 16 gauge wire onto a 28 gauge wire, which may be running other electronic circuits, and our attaching to it may compromise what it is designed to do.

Thanks for sharing your ideas and experience!
 
#7 ·
Pics of my ignition hookup. I dodn't do it, so I won't be able to answer questions. I used it for my DC2DC but nit for my combo unit. (from a newbe for newbies)

You go behind this panel in pic #1. the red wire is hooked plugged into the open spot in pic 3. pic 4 is what the plug part looks like.

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#11 · (Edited)
Well it looks like I'm going to go "there" (DC2DC + new inverter B2b, etc...)

From what I have read, Lola's picture shows it's connected to the cig lighter. Other posts suggest that that connection is not a "van running on" connection, but an ACC on connection.

Lola,

(and others using the cig lighter connection or fuse)

you should check that out to see if the green light on your B2B goes off when the engine is off but the key is in ACC. If the green light stays on with the key in ACC, you can run down your van starter battery...

Just basing this on a lot of recent readings...

Additional question for Steve... makes sense to have a switch on D+ and LC+. Any adverse effects if the LC+ is on and the D+ is off? Would it be better to cascade the LC+ off the D+ switch so it can only be on if the D+ is on?
 
#12 ·
Well it looks like I'm going to go "there" (DC2DC + new inverter B2b, etc...)

From what I have read, Lola's picture shows it's connected to the cig lighter. Other posts suggest that that connection is not a "van running on" connection, but an ACC on connection.

Lola,

(and others using the cig lighter connection or fuse)

you should check that out to see if the green light on your B2B goes off when the engine is off but the key is in ACC. If the green light stays on with the key in ACC, you can run down your van starter battery...

Just basing this on a lot of recent readings...

Additional question for Steve... makes sense to have a switch on D+ and LC+. Any adverse effects if the LC+ is on and the D+ is off? Would it be better to cascade the LC+ off the D+ switch so it can only be on if the D+ is on?
It was connected to the windshield wipers. Which was bad when I drove to Connecticut and it started to RAIN and, after disconnecting the D+ (combo unit doesn't need it) My windshield wipers didn't work. (freak-out moment, but I figured what I had done. )
 
#13 ·
I remember you saying that, but that fuse location was noted as the cig outlet in other's posts.... In any case, my (current but still evolving) plan is to connect the 40A B2B D+ and LC+ signal to pin 13 on the upfitter connection. It wasn't standard in 2014, but my van has it as an option...
 
#16 ·
.... In any case, my (current but still evolving) plan is to connect the 40A B2B D+ and LC+ signal to pin 13 on the upfitter connection. It wasn't standard in 2014, but my van has it as an option...
Pin 13 indicates 'key on', not engine running. Pin 3 goes to -12v when the engine is running.
 
#14 ·
If you are trying the upfitter connection, Iook closely at your connector blocks, a few of the holes have a flat side, that helps you orient your connector to the diagrams. If yours looks like this, it is installed upside down from the pin diagrams

.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Following through further, I may forego the fuel pump wire if it looks too hard to splice safely.

OTOH, it does look pretty easy to do. (someone else's picture) Note the plain grey wire on pin1 of the connector. wires are wrapped in cloth so it's easy to back some off to connect... we'll see

Image


OR, Instead, I have a 12V low current relay that I will try to connect to my upfitter connection, in an attempt to get a real engine running output. It only draws about 20ma.

Although others have mentioned pin 13 and pin 3, I believe that on my 2014, the pin that goes to ground when the engine is running is PIN 2. This document was labelled "2014 Upfitter Connector"

My plan would be to connect a relay with its (+) to pin 13 (goes on with key on) and it's (-) to pin 2 (grounds the relay when the engine is on). it should click the relay on only when the engine is running... to be determined!

Image


Thoughts?
 
#21 ·
OR, Instead, I have a 12V low current relay that I will try to connect to my upfitter connection, in an attempt to get a real engine running output. It only draws about 20ma.

Although others have mentioned pin 13 and pin 3, I believe that on my 2014, the pin that goes to ground when the engine is running is PIN 2. This document was labelled "2014 Upfitter Connector"

My plan would be to connect a relay with its (+) to pin 13 (goes on with key on) and it's (-) to pin 2 (grounds the relay when the engine is on). it should click the relay on only when the engine is running... to be determined!

Thoughts?
@proeddie, sorry for late response. I connected a low voltage relay on my 2014 the same way you propose and it has worked fine for me.