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Ram ProMaster 4x4 - 4WD ??

137K views 34 replies 21 participants last post by  Swoop  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Does anyone find anything or know of any 4x4 Ram 2500 ProMasters / Fiat Ducatos yet? Woohoo, sign me up if so.

They're probably still too new for someone to try and make a 4x4 out of one like they do with the Ford E-350's and the Chevy Express vans.:eek:


 
#2 ·
I'm thinking with our transverse front wheel drive drivetrain, plus lack of a transmission and drivetrain tunnel down the middle of our vans (remember this is how we get our nice low floor compared to other vans), that this idea is far-fetched.
 
#6 ·
I take it back. Looks like a company named Dangel pulled it off (or at least mocked it up) to work within the constraints of the PM/Ducato chassis.

 
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#4 · (Edited)
Not going to happened to the Promaster, it will eat into their profit margin.

It would be a one off product.

If you cobble some Dodge parts together it can be done.
 
#7 ·
That’s with the engine we have in our diesel van! I can’t tell if it’s the comfort-matic M-40 auto shifted transmission. There is some lost ground clearance.
 
#11 ·
Nearly none of my travels will need 4WD or AWD. The worse roads I could be on will be gravel roads and they should normally be fine with FWD. Where I think 4WD or AWD might save me would be when a gravel road gets subjected to a torrential downpour. It could turn into a mud road--maybe, I don't know. Does anyone travel through gravel roads a lot and can let me know?
 
#12 ·
I've been on some roads where 4WD would have helped a lot and some that I walked up first and d coded that the van was a no-go. It would also make mr feel more confident about heading to the mountains in the middle of a major snowstorm (pow). I had no fear or hesitations going in my Jeep. If it's dumping snow and I wanted to go I would go. I'm not yet sure what the limits are of my Promaster.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I had really wanted AWD or 4WD and was looking hard at Sprinter as a result. But I couldn't justify the $20k or more that it would have ended up costing me (because I got my promaster at 25% off of msrp). So I make do.

What I really wanted 4WD for was more for the way I imagined I'd be using my vehicle. It turns out the reality is quite a bit different. I have a small light dirtbike I use now to get out in no mans land. Every so often I come across jeeps out there. They're getting it done, but they're oh so very slow. It's not a fair comparison, comparing them to a weeny tiny dirtbike, but neither is it a fair comparison comparing our monstrous promasters to weeny tiny jeeps. Which is to say that the promaster in 4WD territory would be super slow.

As it stands now, I wouldn't want to take my monstrous promaster where 4WD is needed. It's just too big, and I've got too much stuff inside that rattles and shakes loose. But AWD or 4WD would be nice on treacherous icy and snowy PAVED roads. Anything other than that and I'd just rather park the beast and take the dirtbike. And for treacherous icy and snowy paved roads, solid snow tires work a wonder too. And saved me $20 grand or more.
 
#16 ·
I always have felt that ground clearance is more often the limitation than traction when it comes to rough roads. I had a Volkswagen bus once, and later a Vanagon, and either of those could go places that were pretty surprising because they had good clearance - also had the weight of the engine over the drive wheels, which helps with traction. AWD is great in the snow as a convenience, since you can go without chains, but chains on a front wheel drive will go when AWD without chains may not. On steep dirt roads, AWD or 4WD is the only way, but in the past I've rarely found a road that was steep enough so that I couldn't get traction with front wheel drive AND smooth enough so that clearance was not an issue. Steep and rough always seem to go together.
 
#17 ·
Last month I drove my Promaster up the dirt, gravel and rock strew road to the Wildrose Charcoal Kilns at Death Valley. I had no problems at all but I was sure one of the many huge washouts and rocks in the road would blow a tire or two or swallow me whole. The Promaster performed fine and I (shockingly) never even bottomed out. It was without a doubt the worst road the Promaster has ever driven!

Image
 
#20 ·
when i was doing the original research on a van back in ~2008>2009 i was seriously looking at the Quigley 4x4 conversions on the Chevy/Ford full size vans, then it occurred to me that the campgrounds we were doing just fine in our stock Volvo xc70 AWD wagon up forestry roads to forestry camps...so why not research if there were some full size AWD vans? That is when i found and purchased our Van#1 (2010 Chevy Express AWD). It has been an amazing rig (up for sale now) and IMO, the only stock van on the american market that comes close to the safety in my wet/icy/snowy road conditions is the FWD PM < > which is why our Van#2 is a PM : )

I do not include the Sprinter in the possibilities as if it breaks down, the dealer network is less than ideal.

We've had 4x4's in the family for years, the only time the 4x4 was engaged was when we were back further than we should be on a trail, got stuck, used the extra drive axle to get un-stuck, and call it camp.

Thom
 
#21 ·
In the desert SW there is deep soft fine sand in washes and what we call Moon Dust in the playas. I have been in places you had to struggle through with a Samurai (which is the best stock desert vehicle) and ran out of power to push forward more than at a crawl in my 5.4 liter F150 and small pop up camper. You are not going to go to deep into the desert in the PM. I don’t and I know what I am doing there.
If you do go deep into the Sonoran Desert the van will be so scratched up by the Paloverde and Mesquite trees you might need a paint job after a morning too. My 4 Runner goes there with its desert pinstripes.
 
#26 ·
Cut'n Paste from the news item above:

The Fiat Ducato 4x4 was developed in collaboration with the French propulsion specialist Dangel. Transmission and gear ratio as well as the wheels remain unchanged in the factory orderable conversion. The power transmission to the rear axle is done by a cardan shaft with centrally mounted viscous coupling. The placement of the additional drive components laterally in the chassis and their low weight are also designed not to restrict the structure of, for example, motorhomes. In addition, for example, remain tank and exhaust system unchanged.


The surcharge of the basic version on the corresponding production model of the Fiat Ducato amounts to 7,550 euros for the wheelbases L1 and L2 and 7,750 euros for the wheelbases L4 and L5 (non-binding manufacturer's recommended retail price plus value added tax). On request, a limited slip differential for the rear axle and increased ground clearance are available, which can also be combined with each other.
Google Translate link: https://translate.google.com/transl...-mit-vierradantrieb-fur-offroad-taugliche-transporter-und-wohnmobile&edit-text=
 
#28 ·
My PM is a 2014, purchased new in February 2014. It has been a reliable and nimble vehicle and I could not be happier with it. The problem I have is a section of county road that cuts through my farm in extremely rugged backcountry. There is a very steep section that I just can't drive up with my trailer. Mind you, I am pulling a 1300 lb. trailer with a 900 lb horse. Inside the van, I have a 500 lb. carriage. This configuration causes me no problem anywhere else and I have driven this through the Canadian Rockies and Florida mud. I have quit going to my farm because of this.

For years, I have contemplated and failed how to fix this. (have thought of winches. I have thought of building another barn (not practical). My neighbors have rescued me more times than I can count. Does anyone know of a better way without selling the PM? 4WD?
69612
 
#30 ·
My PM is a 2014, purchased new in February 2014. It has been a reliable and nimble vehicle and I could not be happier with it. The problem I have is a section of county road that cuts through my farm in extremely rugged backcountry. There is a very steep section that I just can't drive up with my trailer. Mind you, I am pulling a 1300 lb. trailer with a 900 lb horse. Inside the van, I have a 500 lb. carriage. This configuration causes me no problem anywhere else and I have driven this through the Canadian Rockies and Florida mud. I have quit going to my farm because of this.

For years, I have contemplated and failed how to fix this. (have thought of winches. I have thought of building another barn (not practical). My neighbors have rescued me more times than I can count. Does anyone know of a better way without selling the PM? 4WD?
View attachment 69612
Buy a cheap farm truck to leave on the property (unlicensed) just for pulling the trailer ????
 
#32 ·
Any solution on this difficulty?
Can you describe more detail how your PM fails? - is it one or Both front wheels spinning?
Is it related to articulation of the front suspension to keep the wheels on the ground? - i.e. is one wheel being lifted because of the off-camber track?

I am working to develop an electric motor assist to retrofit to a PM.
Generally the FWD is quite good, because actually the PM puts quite a consistent heavy load over the front drive wheels.

But a clear weakness comes with towing and if there becomes weight transfer to the rear which can happen with the trailer hitch load.

I know it is not so easy practically, but you could had a front hitch that might allow you to load up 200/300kg odd of ballast over your front end and that could help alot with getting traction on those front wheels.

I will make some calculation on that to see what it might bring, if it is enough.

Q. anyone out there on this forum can provide Front + Rear axle Kerb weights for their Promasters?

I am estimating at the moment for a 136" high roof, 1200kg front / 1000kg rear for empty Kerb weights.

What are the written values for Max Front Axle and max Rear Axle on your PM?

in theory, you can find the maximum traction on front wheel with the max load on that axle.

The traction on any surface should increase proportion with the load.
So if the front axle allows 1850kg max, and you are at 1250kg now, then potential there is 1850/1250 = x 1.48 more tractive force available.
I would be guessing at a friction/adhesion coeff mu=0.5 on that trail.
- any idea on the grade% ?
Can you explain me with what other vehicle/engine/transmission and gear you can drive up your trail?

good luck.