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I've been trying to get transmission temp from my OBD on Torque, to no avail. After reading through this thread, I'm learning about swapping the pins/yellow cable, etc. Could the fact that I'm not using a yellow cable be an issue? I've confirmed the PID working on a similar year Jeep.
 
I've been trying to get transmission temp from my OBD on Torque, to no avail. After reading through this thread, I'm learning about swapping the pins/yellow cable, etc. Could the fact that I'm not using a yellow cable be an issue? I've confirmed the PID working on a similar year Jeep.
I doubt the yellow dongle (pin swap) will help with Torque. I have a ScanGauge reading trans temp without a yellow dongle. It's only used with AlphaOBD to change the van's control module (computer) settings. PM PIDs are also different from Jeeps. The PM uses Fiat PIDs. These PIDs work for my 2017 PM using a ScanGauge. If your PM is older than 2022, they may work for you too.
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FWIW, I used Torque for a while, but switched to a ScanGauge to eliminate hassling with a phone all the time.
 
I doubt the yellow dongle (pin swap) will help with Torque. I have a ScanGauge reading trans temp without a yellow dongle. It's only used with AlphaOBD to change the van's control module (computer) settings. PM PIDs are also different from Jeeps. The PM uses Fiat PIDs. These PIDs work for my 2017 PM using a ScanGauge. If your PM is older than 2022, they may work for you too.
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FWIW, I used Torque for a while, but switched to a ScanGauge to eliminate hassling with a phone all the time.
Yep, mines a 2015 gas. I've tried to convert this data from scan gauge and haven't had luck. Any chance you have the equation handy from torque when you did use it?
 
poking around for online 62te relearn procedure, apparently AlfaOBD is capable of doing it

separately you can look at what's going on in the transmission

 
Hey I am getting the same message after input dealer code.
Did you find the solution?



















Seems most of the computer functions in Alfa require yellow cable but not all, such as standard engine diag. Have read suggestion of proxy alignment fixing blinking odometer but not would be nice to have your confirmation when you try it.

As for your 5 digit code, I am really curious what your dealer provides. I am still chasing getting my code to work. I just confirmed that the code I have on print out from dealer is not allowing me to "Login With Code". Support at AlfaOBD suggested I tried / Body Computer / Login with Code. They said if it works I should see "Logged in with Code" in the window title.
--> my result - Login Failed - then AlfaOBD2 connects but without code.

Noted that I was able todo all of the above programming without code, including proxy re-alignment.. however when I try the key programming routine I get - Not Logged in with code message.

Strange since I have the printout from dealer with Electronic ID (5 digit numeric code) and Mechanical code (7 digit, 2 alfa 5 numeric code). I am attaching a copy of what dealer service manager printed out for me without any questions asked after I showed my DL and registration card in my name (I've erased personalized numbers for my van on this copy).


Anyone here able to confirm which code from dealer worked to "Login with Code" on Alfa OBD2 .. maybe also confirm you can start the Key Reprogram unit to confirm your code is really working? Hunting to understand if there is yet another 5 digit code I need to be looking for or if something else is broken here.





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Sorry I know this is an old thread, but I have a dumb question about deactivating the PWM for the headlights that doesn’t seem to be answered anywhere online. High beams specifically. The option is called “High Beam PWM Deactivation”, but the setting choices are the standard “Enabled” or “Not Enabled”. Which one actually turns off the PWM? Is it “enabling” the “deactivation”?

The really dumb part is that this was all working fine for a few months - I’d installed a relay on the high beam wire to control off road lights and the relay was buzzing due to the PWM. I found and deactivated it back then and all was fine until a day or two ago after I did make some changes to other light settings, but only related to the rear lights as I was troubleshooting another issue. Now I’ve made so many changes I can’t remember which setting actually deactivates the PWM. And I’ve tried both settings with and without a Proxy Alignment and so far the relay is still buzzing. This is driving me crazy.

In addition to the High Beam PWM setting, if someone knows any other settings that could be related or the default settings for all the light-related configurations, that would help me get back to the right combination of options that prevented the relay from buzzing for 2-3 months. Thanks in advance.
 
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