Hi @MsNomer, how is your Velit furnace install going? I'm about to start shopping for a gas heater and would love to get a review. Thanks.
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Velit heater
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Jing
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@Pierre O , @Jing, @larry barello
Thanks guys, I think I get it now and will look under the cover of my fuel tank, it seems it’ll make sense to me then.
@larry barello - thanks for offer for the parts list. I’ll see what Velit sends me, I understand that they send everything one needs. But perhaps not a fuel cut-off, so a link for that would be helpful.
Thanks guys, I think I get it now and will look under the cover of my fuel tank, it seems it’ll make sense to me then.
@larry barello - thanks for offer for the parts list. I’ll see what Velit sends me, I understand that they send everything one needs. But perhaps not a fuel cut-off, so a link for that would be helpful.
Link embedded in my previous post
With the fuel tank cover removed there is an opening toward the rear of the van that drops down around the back of the tank and under the van.
As you can see in these pictures I used I/4" gas line tubing as a protective conduit with the nylon fuel tubing slid inside going in that direction.
I also installed the filter in this location so I could easily get to it. It's working fine.
Awesome, thank you!
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707 Posts
Where would the turn off valves be best placed?
And any purchase suggestions for the fuel filter?
Many thanks.
And any purchase suggestions for the fuel filter?
Many thanks.
There are no turn off valves for the Velit 4000 heater if you’re talking about gasoline fuel line. As for DC 12V I wired mine into the DC fuse block so I can just pull the 20A fuse if it needs maintenance.
Put a fuel cut off some place near the tank. This will cover faults like road debris breaking your filter or severing a fuel line.
I don't know the Velit recommendation, but after my webasto fuel filter disintegrated and started siphoning gas while I was filling up, I just mended the line with a union - no filter. Three years later still working fine.
I was super glad to see I had put in a fuel cut-off near the fuel tap...
Webasto only recommends a filter of the fuel is dirty. Most gas is filtered many times before being pumped into your tank.
I.e. skip the filter.
I don't know the Velit recommendation, but after my webasto fuel filter disintegrated and started siphoning gas while I was filling up, I just mended the line with a union - no filter. Three years later still working fine.
I was super glad to see I had put in a fuel cut-off near the fuel tap...
Webasto only recommends a filter of the fuel is dirty. Most gas is filtered many times before being pumped into your tank.
I.e. skip the filter.
I skipped the filter also. However I did not install a cutoff valve because I can just as easily pull the quick connect if needed.
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707 Posts
A minority dissent to fuel filter delete,
As a diesel guy and a former Case 680C backhoe owner, it is very easy to say filters are a Pain in the Butt.
Took a fuel delivery one time and it cost me a minimum a week of work and at least a $200 in filters to drain tanks and get the water out. Note I had a water blocking filter on the main tank dispenser, gack!
Ethanol in gas is a water lover, hydrophilic. Bringing this back to gasoline. Not apples and oranges..
Your ride, your time, your dime, make it yours.
Going to look at some small engine fuel filters, changed every year or so.
As a diesel guy and a former Case 680C backhoe owner, it is very easy to say filters are a Pain in the Butt.
Took a fuel delivery one time and it cost me a minimum a week of work and at least a $200 in filters to drain tanks and get the water out. Note I had a water blocking filter on the main tank dispenser, gack!
Ethanol in gas is a water lover, hydrophilic. Bringing this back to gasoline. Not apples and oranges..
Your ride, your time, your dime, make it yours.
Going to look at some small engine fuel filters, changed every year or so.
I suspect ethanol is what caused my plastic (webasto) filter to craze and disintegrate after 1-1/2 years. YMMV
Regardless, the heater filters wouldn't stop water or fine sediment.
Regardless, the heater filters wouldn't stop water or fine sediment.
Have you noticed any issue with heat on the floor near the turret? A guy on the transit forum says it gets pretty hot.
Never noticed, but never really checked either. "Pretty hot " is hard to define. I'm going on a trip next week, I'll try and pay attention to this.
Pretty hot means danger or smells 
This guy: https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/posts/1317319/ measured 120-150F.
If I remember right you have lonseal floor?
This guy: https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/posts/1317319/ measured 120-150F.
If I remember right you have lonseal floor?
For what it’s worth I installed the same turret as Jing and haven’t noticed any heat issues. After 1 hour the turret flange was only lukewarm to the touch. I’m not foolish enough to go under the turret and touch that but I will say it makes contact with an underbody crossbeam that acts as a heat sink.
FWIW, my Chinese 2kw diesel sits on a simple flat metal floor plate resting directly on the plywood floor. A DIY sheetmetal turret lines the 4" hole in direct contact with the plywood and poly-iso underneath. After several years, I recently pulled the heater and turret for maintenance. There was no visible heat damage to the plywood or poly-iso. Even the heater case itself never gets too hot to touch. Granted, the Velit is 4kw, but I doubt it's much different.
BTW, poly-iso does not melt and withstands over 200 degF, while XPS softens at 165.
BTW, poly-iso does not melt and withstands over 200 degF, while XPS softens at 165.
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51 Posts
Is the turret necessary? Planning on installing Friday/Saturday and don’t have one :/
The turret insures any exhaust leakage stays outside the envelope of the van. It also prevents road debris (water) from being splashed up under your floor.
I mounted my heater directly on the metal floor using an excess of rtv silicone to fill the gaps and glue it down, sealing it by trowling the glue around the hole with my finger too create a smooth bead. It took four days to cure and has been a reliable mount over the last four years of of pavement travel.
The most challenging part was cutting a square hole through the floor to fit the heater in. I used a drywall router. NB my floor is the OEM floor plus 3/8" neoprene, so relatively thin. My approach might not work for a thick insulated floor.
I mounted my heater directly on the metal floor using an excess of rtv silicone to fill the gaps and glue it down, sealing it by trowling the glue around the hole with my finger too create a smooth bead. It took four days to cure and has been a reliable mount over the last four years of of pavement travel.
The most challenging part was cutting a square hole through the floor to fit the heater in. I used a drywall router. NB my floor is the OEM floor plus 3/8" neoprene, so relatively thin. My approach might not work for a thick insulated floor.
It is indeed fortunate that the hole doesn’t show. I cut my ragged hole with a multi-tool.
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