The heater arrived in April while we were on the first of two major trips. We started the install yesterday. Ironically, the heat and humidity we are working in is brutal.😓

We are replacing an AT2000, which was mounted directly onto the metal floor about a foot inside the passenger rear wheel well facing forward from under the bed. The first good news is that we can reuse the bottom plate (with a small adjustment) and the fuel line. The bad news is that I have to cut out more floor (Harbor Freight Multitool to the rescue), plus make more adjustment to the cabinetry.

Here are the two plates bolted together, Black is Webasto. Slot toward the top is the adjustment.

We may be able to test it early one morning here, but hopefully in ten days or so we will be testing at altitude in Colorado. Not because the installation is expected to take that long, but because of other obligations.

A guy on ClassB forum has tested successfully at 9,600 feet. Several people have reported successful installations, no problems reported yet. I would not hesitate to buy it again.

 

The monstrous orange box is the ECU.

 

I look forward to your altitude review. I’m looking seriously at this one. Thanks

 

We are definitely looking forward to it. 😂 There's something bizarre about installing a heater with sweat literally pouring off.

 

The VeLit lives!! It started first try, but given that the van interior was 75°, we couldn’t really test it. We got up before dawn to even start it while ambient was below 70°. The van is totally heat-soaked and will take days to cool off. Within a week, we should at Wolf Creek Pass, 10,800 feet with nights in the 30’s-40’s.

 

Velit heater teardown and testing video

 

@MsNomer, this may have been covered elsewhere but I looked and did not find: what did you decide to do with the fuel pickup for your VeLit heater? I have the heater, cold weather is coming, and I am trying to figure the best way to get an altitude-friendly and reliable installation.

 

We used the one VeLit recommended from Amazon.

 

I found that link and ordered the pickup. Last question for now: did you mount it in the fuel sender cluster as @ard00d did in this thread: GunduVan Build Thread

As always, your help is greatly appreciated! I look forward to your Velit Replacement post when that comes.

 

This is where MrNomer marked for the pipe. Run the line to the lower right of the photo parallel to the other protrusion.

 

This is where MrNomer marked for the pipe. Run the line to the lower right of the photo parallel to the other protrusion.
View attachment 98733

That photo was very, very helpful. Thank you very much @MsNomer!

I've now got the fuel pickup in place, the fuel line mostly run and a big hole in the floor of my van. I wonder if I could bother you for one more piece of advice? How do you run the fuel pump wire to the pump? I was thinking I would just slip it under the gasket. I can't imagine another way to do it so this is probably a self-answering query but thought you could bless my thought process.

 

Where did the pump wire exit the heater body? On the Webasto it exits next to the fuel line in and thus is already exposed underneath the van. I shortened mine before attaching it to the fuel pump so I didn't have excess hanging around under the van.

 

Larry, on the Velit it's on the side, coming out of a common access with the power cable and controller cable on the side of the unit.

 

Well I don't know what I would do. Either a firewall gasket and another hole in the floor or like you suggested underneath the gasket maybe cutting the gasket to give the cable some relief

 

On their bottom plate, there is a notch for the wire. We re-used our Webasto plate and MrNomer cut that notch in it. Underneath, he cut out the van metal between the two holes.

This is the unit and plate mocked up in the house. (Old gasket shown was replaced with a new one.)Pump power wire comes through notch at the bottom of photo. As long as you remember to thread it through before you mount on the plate, you should be good. IIRC, it routes under the unit to the hole.

 

On their bottom plate, there is a notch for the wire. We re-used our Webasto plate and MrNomer cut that notch in it. Underneath, he cut out the van metal between the two holes.

This is the unit and plate mocked up in the house. (Old gasket shown was replaced with a new one.)Pump power wire comes through notch at the bottom of photo. As long as you remember to thread it through before you mount on the plate, you should be good. IIRC, it routes under the unit to the hole.

View attachment 99113

Thank you for the response. Much appreciated!

 

I did measure 4 times! But making it a bit shorter was not scary.

It's a big job, make no mistake. It was my first vehicle install but I had the advantage of building a suitcase diesel heater for fun two years ago. There is a lot of good advice on this forum. My .02: a stainless steel turret plate mount is great. That and a 5" hole saw and some patience and a bit of sweat and the floor hole is sorted and very easy to seal properly. I filed, sanded, and painted the cut hole (2 coats of paint) and then coated it in red RTV when I put the turret plate in place, using more RTV once it was bolted down.

For the fuel pickup, the image that @MsNomer shared above is very helpful. I used a specific tool to break the retainer clip loose and would recommend that you make that small investment. The angle is rough for using a brass bar and the tank is plastic so it does not reward mis-strikes. I used a ½ drive socket wrench with a roughly 2' piece of box aluminum as an extender. I also put both silicone and WD-40 on the ring which may have helped? Didn't hurt. When it broke loose, so did my bowels as it sounded like the end of the world and a big expensive problem all at the same time. Be prepared for that.

I did forgo the fuel filter as it seems like many have problems with it and one poster here on this thread made the point that fuel is filtered on it's way into your tank, the pickup is above the bottom, and those two things outweigh the supposed benefit of a cheap-**** filter and the problems it seems to cause. Time will tell, and a replacement pump is not that hard to put in!

Remember that if you definitely know you don't need high altitude operation, you can just use the enclosed fuel pickup adaptor and you don't even need to break that ring loose. I'm sure you will do fine in any case!

I realize I forgot the link to the fuel pickup: Amazon.com: SMOHOOL Heater Fuel Tank Sender Standpipe Pick Up Clip Hose Kit Compatible with Webasto Eberspacher Parking Heater : Automotive

Here's the tool: Amazon.com: 6599 Fuel Tank Lock Ring Tool Fuel Pump Senders Removal Install Tools for Chrsyler Dodge Ford GM Nissan Hyundai Sante Fe Jeep Wrangler : Automotive

 

I did measure 4 times! But making it a bit shorter was not scary.

It's a big job, make no mistake. It was my first vehicle install but I had the advantage of building a suitcase diesel heater for fun two years ago. There is a lot of good advice on this forum. My .02: a stainless steel turret plate mount is great. That and a 5" hole saw and some patience and a bit of sweat and the floor hole is sorted and very easy to seal properly. I filed, sanded, and painted the cut hole (2 coats of paint) and then coated it in red RTV when I put the turret plate in place, using more RTV once it was bolted down.

For the fuel pickup, the image that @MsNomer shared above is very helpful. I used a specific tool to break the retainer clip loose and would recommend that you make that small investment. The angle is rough for using a brass bar and the tank is plastic so it does not reward mis-strikes. I used a ½ drive socket wrench with a roughly 2' piece of box aluminum as an extender. I also put both silicone and WD-40 on the ring which may have helped? Didn't hurt. When it broke loose, so did my bowels as it sounded like the end of the world and a big expensive problem all at the same time. Be prepared for that.

I did forgo the fuel filter as it seems like many have problems with it and one poster here on this thread made the point that fuel is filtered on it's way into your tank, the pickup is above the bottom, and those two things outweigh the supposed benefit of a cheap-**** filter and the problems it seems to cause. Time will tell, and a replacement pump is not that hard to put in!

Remember that if you definitely know you don't need high altitude operation, you can just use the enclosed fuel pickup adaptor and you don't even need to break that ring loose. I'm sure you will do fine in any case!

I realize I forgot the link to the fuel pickup: Amazon.com: SMOHOOL Heater Fuel Tank Sender Standpipe Pick Up Clip Hose Kit Compatible with Webasto Eberspacher Parking Heater : Automotive

Here's the tool: Amazon.com: 6599 Fuel Tank Lock Ring Tool Fuel Pump Senders Removal Install Tools for Chrsyler Dodge Ford GM Nissan Hyundai Sante Fe Jeep Wrangler : Automotive

Where do you buy the turret plate?

 

Personally I used the factory fuel tap. I figure if at any point we want to switch to a stanpipe all it cost us is 50 dollars for the fittings and all I have to do is put the cap back on.
As far as I know very few people put standpipes on promasters although if you look it seems quite common on ducatos which should be quite similar...

 

...plus I understand that Velit does not state that the auxiliary tap will not work; only that it may hinder high-altitude start-up. I'm a stong advocate of the stepwise approach to install and I would probably test with the tap prior to throwing the standpipe in the mix, at least to validate the rest of the install.

 

...pus for what it's worth the fuel pump is a critical (and fairly expensive) component and I'm not keen on drilling holes into it if I don't have to, on the odd chance that the manufacturer would not cover it under warranty if it fails (by itself or as a result of my intervention). For us high altitude travel is not in the short term plans anyway; but if you want to do it right now it seems quite straightforward (certainly less nerve-wracking than drilling holes for windows ). I would get a real tool to remove the lockring.

 

FWIW
videos from David Mcluckie
He may even run diesel through it, because that's what he does.
Of note, it uses the exact same pump as the diesel versions, so maybe the pump doesn't need diesel lubricating properties after all.
No elevation testing, fyi.
Velit heater test and review

Velit heater tear down

 

I am seriously considering one of these vs Espar. The altitude adjustment is critical for me - I live at 5,000 feet and regularly spend time at 7,000-8,000 which is no special trip ... basically out the back door.

I've done a bit of research on the "altitude" aspect of these heaters. You mention "elevation testing" so I wanted to share a thought. I've seen people say their heater started up at X,XXX feet no problem, or ran overnight no problem. That is important, but not the real critical aspect of elevation adjustments. Without adjusting various factors (eg. fuel flow, etc.), the heaters do not have the right fuel/oxygen mixture at elevation so they burn "dirty." Not noticeably disgustingly dirty, but enough that they build up soot/carbon inside very quickly.

Long story shorty - any type of "elevation testing" really needs to be running for 100-300 hours and then opening them up to check for soot deposits. Without elevation adjustments, they will fail more quickly and need to be cleaned/serviced far more often. That doesn't show up after only a couple of days or a week. Here is a good little video showing altitude adjusted vs. non-adjusted performance of the exact same model (a Webasto):

.

 

Hooked up the electrical components and I have heat! I just need to find clamps to hold the intake and exhaust in place. Thinking the auto parts store will have something- what did you use?

 

You mean to attach the hoses to the heater? Ours (not a velit) came with 1" worm clamps that seem like plumbing clamps. Any hardware store should have similar clamps.

 

No- to fix the hoses to the van’s frame.

 

Given that this is the first winter for the VeLit, you’re gonna have to wait a bit for those 300 hours at altitude. What we know for sure is that the Webasto will NOT perform satisfactorily for you, no matter how it is adjusted. Espar may if you don’t exceed 9,600 or so. What we are pretty darned sure of by now is that the VeLit will.

 

Given that this is the first winter for the VeLit, you’re gonna have to wait a bit for those 300 hours at altitude. What we know for sure is that the Webasto will NOT perform satisfactorily for you, no matter how it is adjusted. Espar may if you don’t exceed 9,600 or so. What we are pretty darned sure of by now is that the VeLit will.
View attachment 102998

Those are great details! I especially appreciate the exhaust CO testing and checking for carbon buildup.

I agree that Webasto is off my list due to altitude issues - even a version sold with "altitude adjustment" is only rated for 6,400'. Espar might work - but I could get almost 3 VeLit heaters for one Espar! I appreciate the product history, support, etc. for Espar, but at some point that is just a huge premium.

I'm hoping for great success for VeLit's heaters because the gasoline versions from Webasto and Esper are $$$.

 

VeLit Support is stellar.

 

I had a very rocky start with my Velit heater. I got it shortly after @MsNomer got hers but didn't install it until months later for various reasons. I took the time to install the aftermarket fuel pickup in an effort to guarantee high elevation operation but the heater didn't work well. It would frequently fail to start, or run for brief periods and shut down without any error codes. The heat output was variable and the often smelled of unburned gas while operating.

Over the course of the first two months I had to install a new controller, three new ECU units, and a new pump. At every turn Velit was responsive but I will admit to feeling like an unpaid beta tester. Before installing the replacement pump I also improved the pump mount and shortened the fuel line from the pump to the unit, which had been about 30 inches, to about 15 inches. The heater worked a bit more reliably but still overheated about ⅔ of the time. The final piece I installed was a new ECU which appears to have been a solution to the overheating problem, as it has not recurred.

Now, all that time and worry later I have a heater that appears to work properly and has done so from temps as low as -10ºF. It does a very good job of heating up my moderately insulated van and even at -10ºF in windy conditions I am able to get comfortable in the van. I have not tested it at altitude yet but here in MN it's been flawless since the ECU replacement.

I am confident based up on my interactions with Velit support that they have the bugs ironed out. The pump and firmware are now solid. The controller works well. Exhaust is clean and almost odorless, there is no sign of soot at the exhaust pipe after an estimated 100 hours of use. I give Velit support high marks for working to make things right without hesitation even if us early adopters got units that were not ready for release.

If you decide to get this heater, and I do recommend it, be careful of pump angle and make sure that the fuel line from the pump to the heater unit has a continuous upward curve, with no dips or flat spots. A few minutes of installation care will pay off with reliable operation.

 

Maybe I have a

I had a very rocky start with my Velit heater. I got it shortly after @MsNomer got hers but didn't install it until months later for various reasons. I took the time to install the aftermarket fuel pickup in an effort to guarantee high elevation operation but the heater didn't work well. It would frequently fail to start, or run for brief periods and shut down without any error codes. The heat output was variable and the often smelled of unburned gas while operating.

Over the course of the first two months I had to install a new controller, three new ECU units, and a new pump. At every turn Velit was responsive but I will admit to feeling like an unpaid beta tester. Before installing the replacement pump I also improved the pump mount and shortened the fuel line from the pump to the unit, which had been about 30 inches, to about 15 inches. The heater worked a bit more reliably but still overheated about ⅔ of the time. The final piece I installed was a new ECU which appears to have been a solution to the overheating problem, as it has not recurred.

Now, all that time and worry later I have a heater that appears to work properly and has done so from temps as low as -10ºF. It does a very good job of heating up my moderately insulated van and even at -10ºF in windy conditions I am able to get comfortable in the van. I have not tested it at altitude yet but here in MN it's been flawless since the ECU replacement.

I am confident based up on my interactions with Velit support that they have the bugs ironed out. The pump and firmware are now solid. The controller works well. Exhaust is clean and almost odorless, there is no sign of soot at the exhaust pipe after an estimated 100 hours of use. I give Velit support high marks for working to make things right without hesitation even if us early adopters got units that were not ready for release.

If you decide to get this heater, and I do recommend it, be careful of pump angle and make sure that the fuel line from the pump to the heater unit has a continuous upward curve, with no dips or flat spots. A few minutes of installation care will pay off with reliable operation.

I wonder if mine has an updated ECU. After installation, I did get error 07. I called Velit and they sent out a new pump instantly saying they knew those were problematic. The new pump is noticeably quieter than the one that came with my kit. I’ve had no problems since. I didn’t lose more than a couple drops of fuel in doing the swap.

 

I too have a Velit that has had issues. I installed it this last summer and test fired it and it seemed to work as it should. Then this Fall as the weather cooled we started to use heat, the heater worked fine but we really only used it 6 or 8 times. Then on our coldest night (18F) and highest altitude (5100ft) the heater wouldn't start and showed an error code of 07. Several tries to start had the same results.

We came home after that trip and the heater would start and run at home which is at 3100ft. I contacted support and they said I needed a new pump which the promptly shipped. I am not looking forward to spilling gasoline when I change out the pump, but I will be soon because we are leaving on a trip Tuesday. Hopefully the pump takes care of the issue.

Velit support might be good, but I would prefer a product that requires no support.

 

I too have a Velit that has had issues. I installed it this last summer and test fired it and it seemed to work as it should. Then this Fall as the weather cooled we started to use heat, the heater worked fine but we really only used it 6 or 8 times. Then on our coldest night (18F) and highest altitude (5100ft) the heater wouldn't start and showed an error code of 07. Several tries to start had the same results.

We came home after that trip and the heater would start and run at home which is at 3100ft. I contacted support and they said I needed a new pump which the promptly shipped. I am not looking forward to spilling gasoline when I change out the pump, but I will be soon because we are leaving on a trip Tuesday. Hopefully the pump takes care of the issue.

Velit support might be good, but I would prefer a product that requires no support.

I hear ya @Jing

If I build a 3rd van, I will consider the Velit as it has show promise. I for one appreciate your, @MsNomer & @LanVan & Others “Beta Testing”.

There can be issues with all of these heater & reliability is high on my list. Even “FOR” who love their Webasto have (or had) a Propex as a 2nd or backup heater. I had to mess with the regulator for my most recent Propex for higher altitudes - around 7500’ .

Here is hoping VeLit has sorted out their “teething issues” & it is smooth sailing for all for now on. Keep the reports coming as it really helps tye next DIYer decide. 😁👍

 

My ECU was replaced for the intermittent E05. My understanding from Will is that the first batches of ECU and pumps had flaws that weren’t detected until the units failed in the wild. Will confirms that the replacement ECU I was sent in August is the one tested in Colorado, so they must have dialed in the settings pretty darned well.

 

If they had known defects it seems they should have been more proactive and contacted customers and recalled components.

 

So, I just installed the new pump, spilled less gas than I thought it would. Got it back together, fired it up, all good. Ran for 32 minutes and I get the 05 error. Now waiting to hear back from support.

 

I recall that the roll-out was seriously delayed by Covid issues.