[MsNomer]

1. Many of us do not want to mar the side of the van. On the rear plastic, it's nearly invisible.

2. If we get rear-ended, that inlet will be the least of our concerns.

 

[proeddie]

1 - see the drive-away-without-disconnecting comments above
2 - if you get rear ended, the $25 outlet will be the least of your worries. And, if you get rear ended, it won't be while you're plugged in, so there's no electrical risk.

 

[Jenmcd]

Connected, but just have the outlet in the rear. That way it's a straight pull away if you forget to to unplug it. Mine's similar to RV8R's, but since I just have a regular 15a 110v plug I fit it in the bumper.



View attachment 86751

How does it get from there into the van?

I researched the 30A twist-lock solution (popular with RVs), SmartPlug inlet and connector (safety optimized for RV and marine), and went with the simpler approach I learned here: 15A plug on the back corner plastic with wire threaded in through the air baffle.

What works for me: my AC needs are simple - built-in shore power charger/supply, occasional power tools or fan. Maybe someday a small microwave, but my inverter is only 1200W, so an upgrade would be necessary anyway.

What I'd do differently:
1) I drove away with the cord plugged in. Fortunately it pulled right out, which may have been a worse scenario had it been twist-locked. I remedied the situation by installing a bright red AC LED on my dash, so even in bright sunlight I can see that I'm plugged in.

2) I park my van head-in to my driveway, where I often work (or sleep or read) inside of it on shore power, as it's an extension of my man-cave (garage). This results in using a long extension cord plugged in where miscreants can (and do) mess with it from the sidewalk. Someday I will add another plug to the front bumper which will allow me a short extension cord from an outside outlet that people would trip my security perimeter (lights, camera) to mess with.

So, both your physical and electrical use cases will drive your decision.

P.S. General AC electrical rule of thumb is 15A outlets are to use 14 AWG wiring, 20A outlets are to use 12 AWG. I wired my interior with 12 AWG stranded, which is likely overkill, but I used 15A outlets and plugs because they are far cheaper and more readily available.

Extension cords have information embossed every few feet. You have to squint, but look for something that says AWG12 or AWG14, etc.

aha, we were able to read it 14g

 

[Jenmcd]

I also vote for the 15A Welluck, or anything that accepts a regular extension cord. We have a 30A inlet that gets used most often with a 15A adapter and regular extension cord. As long as you don't run more than one heating appliance at a time, you'll be fine. I don't expect you'll be running the kettle and cpap at the same time either. Also make sure you pack a fairly heavy (fat) extension cord. For example, a 25ft cord should be at least 14/3 (12/3 even better) gauge to carry a full 15A safely.

I will have to buy a new extension cord, sine 14g one I have has a 3-head receiver, which obviously will not plug into that Welluck device. Thanks for the info,

 

[RV8R]

Two questions- 1. Why would someone prefer this to the side of the van? The hole doesn’t appear to be there from the factory is it?
2. is this location not susceptible to bring damaged by being rear ended?

Well;

1) You would cut a hole in the plastic rear part (easier then the metal wall of the van). The path to get the wire out there already exists IIRC. If you forget & pull away, chances are the plug on the extension cord will just get pulled off as it would probably be a straight pull rather than a side pull if mounted on the driver’s side wall.

2) I suppose it is susceptible to rear ending damage just like a shore power on the drivers side wall would be susceptible to “T-Bone” damage.

All that being said, I have a 30Amp Marine Twist Lock shorepower outlet on the Driver’s side wall. It is overkill for me, but so is 120vac power all together.

The 15amp inexpensive basically extension cord harness would probably be good enough for many van applications.

 

[Jenmcd]

Once I finally get the van (!!!!), I will be able to explore all the holes to see where wires and insulation can go and see where holes can be drilled to install things from outside to inside. I presume (hope!) I will understand everything better then. Thanks for all your advice. ( I also have learned how to change/correct the title of this question. ☺

 

[DewaltDisney]

I will have to buy a new extension cord, sine 14g one I have has a 3-head receiver, which obviously will not plug into that Welluck device. Thanks for the info,

You might have already figured this out, but I'd strongly suggest an AWG12 extension cord. It'll be more versatile for other uses, and if you have to string a couple together, you'll experience less voltage drop. Price-wise, you take a bit of a hit for the upgrade, but it's not massive.

 

[h1k3rb]

@Jenmcd - Until you decide where/if to cut a hole you can also just run the extension could in at the bottom of the door (likely any door of your choice) and plug it into a power strip inside the van. It's what I do (and used to do through the front zipper while tent camping at an electric site years ago). The door gasket has plenty of flex to wrap around the cord without hurting anything while still forming a good seal. Too simple and easy I know ;-) but it's worked so well for me over the years I have no plans to change it.

 

[Jenmcd]

I think this is a worthy consideration. The more I read hear, the more possible it becomes to avoid hiring an delectrical car guy to do things for me. 😏

 

[shreddagorge]

You might have already figured this out, but I'd strongly suggest an AWG12 extension cord. It'll be more versatile for other uses, and if you have to string a couple together, you'll experience less voltage drop. Price-wise, you take a bit of a hit for the upgrade, but it's not massive.

This! I lost a (house) refrigerator once because the crew I hired to refinish my hardwood floors moved it into the garage then plugged it in with insufficient wiring - almost caused a fire, but burned out something inside the fridge itself (not just the fuse). I've also noticed the 14 AWG and smaller extension cords I've had through the years have worn out easier.

@Jenmcd, search for threads (with pictures) on here with explicit instructions on cutting that rear corner and threading the wire through the air baffle (which is supposed to help the slider close easier). I think it was this one that I used, along with 12 AWG stranded wiring (made by Southwire) inside the van. You may be OK with 14 AWG stranded depending on your power needs, but I don't believe it's a wise idea to go with 16 AWG. Some of the exterior plug products come with their own wire and outlets attached, but pay attention to the wire gauge they come with, and also note that you will only have room to thread the wire itself through that baffle, and not the outlet head.

 

[SteveSS]

@Jenmcd, search for threads (with pictures) on here with explicit instructions on cutting that rear corner and threading the wire through the air baffle (which is supposed to help the slider close easier).

Just a reminder, the OP is asking about a PMCity. PM entry points likely don't apply.

 

[Lolaeliz]

For the reasons proeddie mentioned, I'd rather have two 15A instead of one 30A. We only need 30A in the winter when we run an electric heater at our local park—must remember to turn it off before cooking.

A heater won't run on 15A?

 

[MsNomer]

Don't understand the question. I'd run the heater on one circuit, other things on the other.

 

[Lolaeliz]

I will have to buy a new extension cord, sine 14g one I have has a 3-head receiver, which obviously will not plug into that Welluck device. Thanks for the info,

I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYM0SWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Lolaeliz]

Don't understand the question. I'd run the heater on one circuit, other things on the other.

Got it. I thought you were saying a 30A plug was needed for a heater, not 2x 15A adding to 30.

 

[SteveSS]

A heater won't run on 15A?

Depends on the heater. 15A x 120VAC = 1800W max total on a 15A circuit
You quickly learn the watts (or amps) of your various AC appliances, and keep a running total in your head.

 

[SnoopyVan]

My port is on the side of the van, visible in the rear-view mirror. I always check it (and the city water connection) before putting the van in gear, even if I just stopped to get fuel. If you are really concerned about leaving your power cords or pulling them out, put a ribbon around your gearshift before you connect (ideally, tie the ribbon to the cord when not in use), and remove it only after you disconnect (ideally pull the ribbon after disconnecting and wrap around the cord).

I like the idea, a tag like they have on aircraft, (Remove before Flight) or Remove before Drive
Found these

 

[SnoopyVan]

Well,
before i read this post, my mind was already set for a 30amps.

I did install it on driver side.
Bought a 25' male-female 30amp extension cord and I cut 12” on female end.

Then I just installed a 15amp male plug on the 12”. That is my doggy bone adaptor 15amp to 30amp.

I installed the female 30amp twist lock to the cut end of the extension and voila.

Now i have power on a 20amp power bar. Installed 2 led fluorescent type fixture on ceiling. So I can work days and evening.
I wanted to have power inside so I can start the conversion process without having an extension cord going thru the door and use all my electric tools and also a portable heater for the cold day this fall and early winter.
I am in the planning phase right now and collecting lots of info for the floor, insulation etc.
When i am ready to start i will get a new tread where i will document my conversion step by step.
Later this fall i will install a 30amp outlet on the house so i get full 30amp for winter.

Outside, Inside and doggy bone connexion to 15amp