[Pierre O]

Our next step was to build the step and table.

The step serves 3 purposes: it allows us to rest our feet when the swivels are, well, swivelled; it holds the table leg; and it serves as storage for the jack and tools.

I built the step from 1x5 pine and leftover 5/8 plywood from our floor. I made it so it would be flush with the cabin floor and the bottom of the seat bases.

Once the basic structure was done, I prototyped a table out of cardboard to find the best position for the leg:

You will notice that the leg is not between the seats but more to the back. Given the space we found that a round table, with the seats at approximately 45 degrees, worked best for us.

Then I installed the covers with piano hinges, painted the base and trimmed it with leftover vinyl flooring:

The table is made from a cutoff of our countertop. A colleague of mine graciously offered to run it through his planer, glue it and cut it. It is finished with the same wax/oil mix that we used on the countertop and we really love it:

I designed the tabletop to fit on the side of the galley cabinet. I made brackets to hold it in place and used a door bolt to secure it in place:

The leg is stored behind the b pillar, with brackets that I 3D printed. You can barely see it the top behind the curtain:

This is the completed step and dinette:

This works well for us, it takes just a few seconds to setup and store. We tried several shapes for the table (rectangular, trapezoidal, oval and round) and the round table worked best for us. It is small, but enough for plates and cutlery and we can both sit without the other being in the way. Also, the table top is at the same height as the counter so we often use it when cooking.

 

[83Grumman]

We tried several shapes for the table (rectangular, trapezoidal, oval and round) and the round table worked best for us.

If you find that you might like a more adjustable table you could offset the mount on the table a few inches. If 3" then it could be spun/adjusted 6" north/south. East/west adjustments (or anything in between) could be used if only one person is using the table and wanted it closer. It could also make it easier to enter/exit the seat(s). Might have to oil the tube/mount.

 

[Pierre O]

Our next step was to install the bunk windows.

Truth be told, we had the windows in our basement for 6 months. I just did not feel like sawing big holes in the side of the van in the middle of winter, so I waited until the first nice week-end, at the end of April, to do it.

Based on recommendations from a colleague, we used Motion windows. We are quite impressed with the quality of these windows, and they are very easy to install. It's just always stressful to get started, to me at least. The one thing they could do is provide a template, but it's really quite simple to make one.

The first step is literally to mark and cut (I used a jigsaw) the hole. I used a scaffold to be at a comfortable height for cutting, and it went very smoothly:

Of course at this point there is no going back! I made sure to pick up all the metal shavings from inside and outside (I taped a shower curtain inside to catch the shavings, given the interior was partly finished at this point). I also touched up the edges with Tremclad metal paint to prevent future rust.

The Motion windows are sealed with some double-sided tape and clamped with a hefty ring. I made sure to test them with a garden hose and sprayer.

To install the 2 windows took only about 4 hours from setup to cleanup, including removing the interior bracing and measuring a few times to be sure! We really like how they open up the interior:

And we like also how they give the requisite "vanlife" look from the exterior. The tint is a quite close match to the dark tint of the factory slider and back windows:

Yup - now there's no doubt it's a campervan...

I can't recommend the Motion windows enough - we drove and parked in some quite heavy rain without a drop of water getting in, and we had no issue in the winter either. These windows really do feel like they will last the life of the van without problems; the mechanisms feel on par with quality home sliding windows. And with the Maxxfan in front they provide very good ventilation. I centered them over our 54" mattress and they are easy to reach and open/close without needing to climb on the bed, which is nice.

 

[Kris & Tom]

Well done! Thanks for sharing.

 

[Pierre O]

The next step was the wall paneling.

As I mentioned before we wanted the look of a country kitchen or a boat cabin, with a casual, "organic" feel. We wanted to highlight the curves of the van, not hide them. We also wanted to maximize the interior space.

I started by adding furring:

The middle rib is oddly formed, so it took me a bit of time to figure out how to attach the furring. Finally this method won out:

Of course some pieces of T&G have no screws if they fall over the ribs. It does not matter because they are captive both on the top and bottom. Shiplap would have been more complex.

The goal was to have the back of the T&G just flush with the horizintal ribs. It's not obvious from these angles but the furring that goes between the 2 ribs follows the curvature of the body. I replicated the curve at the D pillar. I made a template and bandsawed each piece from a 2x2:

From there it was just a matter of sawing and screwing the T&G. As you can see we went with the same clear finish as the ceiling for the 45 degree section. We could have gone either way but I liked this better, and I had a few leftover boards with clear finish anyway! The wall sections were primed with Stix primer and given 2 coats of Benjamin Moore advance, in a satin finish. The color is a light gray. As you can see I went with visible screws all over (form follows function); this is designed so pieces can be easily removed to access/repair behind if needed. At some point I may spray paint the screw heads with a matching color if I get bored and am looking for something to do!

I made the window casings from door jambs, ripped to width, and narrow molding. Not fancy but it took only a couple hours to make them. They are screwed through the jamb and into the furring so they can be removed for maintenance if needed.

I paneled the walls under the bed the same way:

And finished the wheel wells with boxes made from baltic birch:

This is the paneling once complete. At this point the pillars and rear sheet metal over the doors remain to be trimmed, but it is getting close to completion. It is a completely different feeling with the paneled walls, much brighter!

 

[Vic5491]

The next step was the wall paneling.

As I mentioned before we wanted the look of a country kitchen or a boat cabin, with a casual, "organic" feel. We wanted to highlight the curves of the van, not hide them. We also wanted to maximize the interior space.

I started by adding furring:

View attachment 104057

The middle rib is oddly formed, so it took me a bit of time to figure out how to attach the furring. Finally this method won out:

View attachment 104058

Of course some pieces of T&G have no screws if they fall over the ribs. It does not matter because they are captive both on the top and bottom. Shiplap would have been more complex.

View attachment 104059

The goal was to have the back of the T&G just flush with the horizintal ribs. It's not obvious from these angles but the furring that goes between the 2 ribs follows the curvature of the body. I replicated the curve at the D pillar. I made a template and bandsawed each piece from a 2x2:

View attachment 104060

From there it was just a matter of sawing and screwing the T&G. As you can see we went with the same clear finish as the ceiling for the 45 degree section. We could have gone either way but I liked this better, and I had a few leftover boards with clear finish anyway! The wall sections were primed with Stix primer and given 2 coats of Benjamin Moore advance, in a satin finish. The color is a light gray. As you can see I went with visible screws all over (form follows function); this is designed so pieces can be easily removed to access/repair behind if needed. At some point I may spray paint the screw heads with a matching color if I get bored and am looking for something to do!

View attachment 104061

I made the window casings from door jambs, ripped to width, and narrow molding. Not fancy but it took only a couple hours to make them. They are screwed through the jamb and into the furring so they can be removed for maintenance if needed.

View attachment 104062

I paneled the walls under the bed the same way:

View attachment 104064

And finished the wheel wells with boxes made from baltic birch:

View attachment 104065

This is the paneling once complete. At this point the pillars and rear sheet metal over the doors remain to be trimmed, but it is getting close to completion. It is a completely different feeling with the paneled walls, much brighter!

View attachment 104063

You have certainly done a beautiful job of your van build! Very nice planning and execution! I hope you get many years of rewarding travels with it!

 

[Pierre O]

You have certainly done a beautiful job of your van build! Very nice planning and execution! I hope you get many years of rewarding travels with it!

Thanks!

 

[Pierre O]

Our next steps was the window coverings.

For the windshield and front windows, we have the WeatherTech kit that we bought when we received the van. It works, and it was not hugely expensive, but to be honest it's nothing special. I may make custom covers at some point.

For the side and back windows, we had been using pieces of reflective insulation held with magnets, but now that the interior was coming together we wanted a more finished look. I wanted something that would remain in place and not have to be stored somewhere, that could be removed and washed, and I did not want to pay the inflated prices for ready-made covers.

I can sew (somewhat) but it needs to be simple; I came up with a design using 2 layers of outdoor polypropylene fabric, sandwiching a layer of thinsulate (the type used in outdoor clothing, sold at fabric stores: THINSULATE 100G | Club Tissus). There are thicker versions, but I wanted something that would fold/roll well. This is specified as R/1.3. I made templates from tracing paper and cut the 3 pieces. I then stitched them together.

To attached the window, I used Velcro. I stitched the loop side at the top of the curtain and attached the hook side to the window frame. There are different adhesive types: I used acrylic (PS0172). I got the velcro from Shop VELCRO® Brand Hook and Loop Strips, Fasteners, Tape | HookandLoop.com. I also used 3M #111 adhesion promoter on the metal window frames.

For the rear and slider windows, I embedded rare earth magnets in the curtain every 6 inches or so. For the bunk window covers, I put snaps on the bottom.

I stiched bias around the covers, and added nylon webbing and snap buckles to hold the covers in the open position.

I like that these are letting some sunlight through, but are opaque enough to ensure privacy. "Room darkening" is the proper term in curtain terminology.

 

[FarmByForty]

Originally we had ordered a high roof, 136" van. After 8 months, we still did not have a serial number and the prospects for getting our van soon were gloomy. Then our dealer had a cancellation on a 159" order, and offered it to us.

I just finished reading your build thread so far (thank you for posting it!) and as someone who is in the yet-to-buy-a-PM stage, I'm finding myself back and forth between the 159 and 136. There are a lot of strong opinions on this topic but I'm curious about your thoughts specifically considering you originally were opting for the 136 but ended up building out a 159. What initially drew you to the 136? Knowing what you know now, would you have stuck with the 136, or do you prefer the 159 now? Just wanted to pick your brain on the subject and hear any pros/cons based on your experience. Thanks!

 

[Pierre O]

I just finished reading your build thread so far (thank you for posting it!) and as someone who is in the yet-to-buy-a-PM stage, I'm finding myself back and forth between the 159 and 136. There are a lot of strong opinions on this topic but I'm curious about your thoughts specifically considering you originally were opting for the 136 but ended up building out a 159. What initially drew you to the 136? Knowing what you know now, would you have stuck with the 136, or do you prefer the 159 now? Just wanted to pick your brain on the subject and hear any pros/cons based on your experience. Thanks!

Great question. The 159 is a bit tighter fit in our driveway and initially we were a bit concerned with parking in tight spots and intimidated by the size, and also influenced by the different opinions here.

In hindsight now we would not consider the 136. For our use we find the 159 non extended to be the perfect size for us, our usage and our hobbies. The 2 extra feet make our galley and dining area more spacious and allow us to have the toilet in a permanent spot which we appreciate having.

 

[FarmByForty]

In hindsight now we would not consider the 136.

Really appreciate the input! I do love the idea of a little more space in the 159, but I wonder about turning radius and such when I take it off the beaten path. I've heard of some people in 136s being able to get down trails with tricky bends in ways that 159s can't. However, that might have more to do with the driver's choice (how much risk they are willing to take) rather than the van's ability. How do you find the maneuverability on the 159? Any difficulty with parking spaces/crowded lots/narrow roads/alleys etc? Wondering if there's a noticeable difference in dealing with cramped city stuff. Also, if it was just you traveling solo, would you still find the extra room of the 159 valuable? Thanks again for sharing your experiences

 

[Pierre O]

Really appreciate the input! I do love the idea of a little more space in the 159, but I wonder about turning radius and such when I take it off the beaten path. I've heard of some people in 136s being able to get down trails with tricky bends in ways that 159s can't. However, that might have more to do with the driver's choice (how much risk they are willing to take) rather than the van's ability. How do you find the maneuverability on the 159? Any difficulty with parking spaces/crowded lots/narrow roads/alleys etc? Wondering if there's a noticeable difference in dealing with cramped city stuff. Also, if it was just you traveling solo, would you still find the extra room of the 159 valuable? Thanks again for sharing your experiences

Honestly I have not driven a 136 other than test drive so I can't compare but we drive the 159 in tigh spots (downtown, forest roads, tight trailheads, etc. and never found the 159 to be a challenge. It's about the length of a crew cab, short bed pickup truck so it fits in most regular parking spots. We can also make a 3 point turn in most roads without problem. Again turning radius is pretty similar to a short bed crew cab so we can get where they go to (assuming traction that is).

As to interior space, of course it depends on your layout, what you plan to use it for, etc. but I rarely hear people complaining that they have too much room .

There was only the one time where I dumbly parked in a spot that was specifically labeled "18 feet or shorter", not knowing that vehicles would parallel part in front of us. When we got back from our hike the parking was full. I probably would have been able to squeeze out but it would have taken a bit of effort but fortunately the car parked ahead of us left at the same time as us and cleared the way. Again this was one time (and a miscalculation on my part) in 20,000 miles and almost 2 years.

Bottom line is we enjoy having the 159, and it never hindered any of our travel or parking plans. The biggest issue is the height; that definitely can limit city parking options. But of course that is identical between the 136 and 159!

 

[Pierre O]

Honestly I have not driven a 136 other than test drive so I can't compare but we drive the 159 in tigh spots (downtown, forest roads, tight trailheads, etc. and never found the 159 to be a challenge. It's about the length of a crew cab, short bed pickup truck so it fits in most regular parking spots. We can also make a 3 point turn in most roads without problem. Again turning radius is pretty similar to a short bed crew cab so we can get where they go to (assuming traction that is).

As to interior space, of course it depends on your layout, what you plan to use it for, etc. but I rarely hear people complaining that they have too much room .

There was only the one time where I dumbly parked in a spot that was specifically labeled "18 feet or shorter", not knowing that vehicles would parallel part in front of us. When we got back from out hike the parking was full. I probably would have been able to squeeze out but it would have taken a bit of effort but fortunately the car parked ahead of us left at the same time as us and cleared the way. Again this was one time (and a miscalculation on my part) in 20,000 miles and almost 2 years.

Bottom line is we enjoy having the 159, and it never hindered any of our travel or parking plans. The biggest issue is the height; that definitely can limit city parking options. But of course that is identical between the 136 and 159!

...oh and honestly in this and most other topics there is no "black or white" answer, it's really about personal preference. Do consider every opinion (mine included ) but in the end you will live with the end product and you know yourself best!

 

[FarmByForty]

Honestly I have not driven a 136 other than test drive so I can't compare but we drive the 159 in tigh spots (downtown, forest roads, tight trailheads, etc. and never found the 159 to be a challenge. It's about the length of a crew cab, short bed pickup truck so it fits in most regular parking spots. We can also make a 3 point turn in most roads without problem. Again turning radius is pretty similar to a short bed crew cab so we can get where they go to (assuming traction that is).

As to interior space, of course it depends on your layout, what you plan to use it for, etc. but I rarely hear people complaining that they have too much room .

There was only the one time where I dumbly parked in a spot that was specifically labeled "18 feet or shorter", not knowing that vehicles would parallel part in front of us. When we got back from our hike the parking was full. I probably would have been able to squeeze out but it would have taken a bit of effort but fortunately the car parked ahead of us left at the same time as us and cleared the way. Again this was one time (and a miscalculation on my part) in 20,000 miles and almost 2 years.

Bottom line is we enjoy having the 159, and it never hindered any of our travel or parking plans. The biggest issue is the height; that definitely can limit city parking options. But of course that is identical between the 136 and 159!

Extremely awesome overview, thank you so much! You've give me lots to think on!

 

[MsNomer]

Our choice between 136” and 159” was based on 10 years' experience camping and exploring in our single-cab Tundra. The 159” is 18” longer than the truck, but has the same turning radius. The 136” is 5” shorter and has a turning radius close to that of our Corolla. During those ten years in the truck, we were often frustrated by its length and turning radius. Three-point turns were common, some turns required more, and one time it took FOREVER to get the truck out of a tight place without damaging it. So FOR US, the choice was easy and we have never regretted it. U-turns are common for our 136”, and they always make me smile. Three-point turns are rare.

That said, if we were less adventurous and stuck to ordinary roads, the extra room would be nice, though it has taken me 9 years to figure what I would do with it. The 136” requires more careful attention to layout and storage—every 1/2” counts, but I have enjoyed the challenge.

 

[MaggieMarty]

Extremely awesome overview, thank you so much! You've give me lots to think on!

My understanding is that you would be full timing in the van for some time, correct? Then I definitely would really think about the 159” at a minimum.

Speaking of length comparison - I have a F150 crew cab (4 full doors and roomy backseat) with the 5.5’ short bed and the 159” PM is 4” longer.

 

[Thundercloud2]

One of the first things we did was firming up our plan. My wife had made this initial sketch which was pretty much to scale for a 136":

View attachment 102240

(It's in French but you'll get the gist of it).

What we knew we wanted was:

• A permanent bed
• A quick-setup dinette using the swivels
• A fridge
• A basic water system for washing hands, etc
• A toilet
• A electrical system that could run a toaster and a kettle
• A heater
• "Garage" space for skis, snowshoes, backpacks,and other gear
• Enough counter space to cook meals inside (we tend to eat quite late and don't like to cook dinner in the dark outside
• Enough storage space for clothes, cookware, food, etc.
• Ability to be autonomous for unserviced sites
• A "backup" shower for boondocking
• Ample open floor space (for a van)
• Ability to remove the bed to move furniture, etc.

Importantly for us, this needed to be a 4-season van, where winter is a Québec winter. We knew also that this would be used for "part-time" vanlife, meaning days to weeks and eventually a few months. The ability to "pack and go" quickly was important.

Rapidly I put the plan to scale in visio and and we converged towards the definitive layout:

View attachment 102242

How do you like the open space in your van? I’m deciding between two different build ideas - one that has a nice large open space, fairly similar to what you have except for a dinette space next to the bed. The other concept has a couch perpendicular to the sliding door and is going to be right up against the driver and passenger seat (with at least a wall between) and then kind of a hallway going down the van until you reach the bed.

The first idea is much simpler, but the second idea has more going on as far as places to sit and do work/art/eat dinner/lounge. But I’m wondering if it could also feel claustrophobic. Do I just go outside if I want to feel space?

 

[Pierre O]

How do you like the open space in your van? I’m deciding between two different build ideas - one that has a nice large open space, fairly similar to what you have except for a dinette space next to the bed. The other concept has a couch perpendicular to the sliding door and is going to be right up against the driver and passenger seat (with at least a wall between) and then kind of a hallway going down the van until you reach the bed.

The first idea is much simpler, but the second idea has more going on as far as places to sit and do work/art/eat dinner/lounge. But I’m wondering if it could also feel claustrophobic. Do I just go outside if I want to feel space?

We love the open space - we can cook side by side at the counter, dress up for hiking, and I can even wax our skis inside. In the evening typically my wife reads in one of the front seats; often I prefer to read on the bed. We can setup the shower if we need to, and it can stay setup to dry without taking up all the space. It's a convenient layout for us.

 

[SqueezeInn]

Thank you for posting your build process, enjoyed reading it and I’m sure others will learn and copy it.
Good work, safe travels

 

[MsNomer]

We also have the large open space. Would not want to be without it.

People often assume that they will spend their waking hours out of the van, not in it. This works if their schedules are flexible and trips are short, or they are masochists. Sometimes outside is miserably cold, hot, wet, or buggy. Then, the spacious interior of the van, with room to walk around in, is heavenly.