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A little extra Winter insulation...?

4.3K views 33 replies 17 participants last post by  Bill Pro 159HT  
#1 · (Edited)
My Van is reasonably insulated; however I sometimes find myself in zero temperatures in the Northeast. When this happens my furnace runs constantly. I have a curtain of warm window material separating the cab from the cabin that helps a great deal - although it was pain to make. I have two sleeping bags that I was thinking of hanging on the rear doors to add additional insulation. I also have a set of blackout curtains that I could hang instead of the sleeping bags. It seems obvious that the sleeping bags would be better...but I thought I would seek the wisdom of the group.
 
#10 ·
I'd love to isolate the cab, but the problem is my webasto is under the passenger seat and it pulls air from the footwell of the cab area to figure out what the temperature is. If I seal off the cab area wouldn't it be 95 degrees in back of the van and 40 degrees in the cab area, because the heater would never turn off. There's no way to reroute the air intake. I'm guessing if I bought the thermostat for the webasto I could maybe get around this problem????
 
#8 ·
#13 ·
@Jlo11111
Heater under the passenger's seat, not for everyone, but it works for me. When I need to close the cab curtains I have this setup that puts the heater inlet and outlet on the cargo side.
Image
 
#16 ·
@Jlo11111
Heater under the passenger's seat, not for everyone, but it works for me. When I need to close the cab curtains I have this setup that puts the heater inlet and outlet on the cargo side.
View attachment 91714
Hmmm, I'll have to think about it. I could fashion something similar if I got a three foot hose that connects to the intake and wraps around the front of the seat through the area in between the seats. Maybe make it detachable so I can stow it out of the way until I really need it. Or, I could see if I can track down one of those remote temp sensors and see if that works...
 
#14 ·
Vans have limitations that simply can't be overcome. At best a van has minimal insulation and an overwhelming number of places for heat loss. In colder climates your best bet is short term warm periods. If you want to sit inside all day you'll need a heat source running constantly and you should never open a door. But if you did that you'd have a real condensation problem.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Hi,
I think this is overstated - we have had cold weather trips that were quite enjoyable and the van was very comfortable.

Banff trip...

VERY cold trip... We had one water problem on this trip, but it was really due to poor design.

A camper van is no different than any other enclosure - you can insulate and seal it well and be quite comfortable even in very cold weather and have a very good time.

Gary
 
#17 ·
My recent cold weather trip was tame in comparison to what ur dealing with. But two things worked for me. 1. A throw rug on the floor. My Floor is FREEZING, no matter how much heat the heater throes out. And 2. a heated mattress pad. I kept that on all night. The heater made the cab too hot so I kept getting up to turn it off. So finally I just left it off:
 
#20 ·
Thermostat is a Webasto option, but bad things can happen if it's not run full on. I made sure the rheostat was accessible from the bed.

We encountered bitterly cold weather on the way home from Kip's this week. On the way up, we stayed at a rest stop and an Applebees, so I covered windows. On the way back, we found a little secluded empty park, so I didn't cover anything. We were able to plug in our nominal 1500w electric heater—I say nominal because it is >30 years old. 18° outside, 56° inside overnight, which was perfect sleeping. Webasto when we were up and about could only maintain 67°.
 
#32 ·
From Renogy for their LiFePO4 batteries:

TEMPERATURE PARAMETERS
Standard Operation Temperature: 25℃±5℃
Storage Temperature: -13~149℉ / -25~65℃
Charge Temperature: 32~131°F/ 0~55°C
Discharge Temperature: -4~140°F/ -20~60°C

These are conservative numbers applicable to any LiFePO4 battery:

Don't overthink the issue. Storage at high temperatures is the primary calendar aging parameter. High SOC (i.e. high terminal voltage) is contributing, but unless you float the battery at 14.6v you are not going to notice the effect. Storage cool and anything less than 100% SOC (e.g. 13.3v) is going to be fine.

I don't know about charging when cold. My charger refuses to charge when it is 32 or lower. The batteries always report 4-9f warmer, but that makes sense since they are a large insulated thermal mass. That has only happened once Fun with Home Assistant and Renogy electronics
 
#34 ·
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If you have 300 watts of solar on the roof, I wonder if a 200 watt electric heater would help. In sun, you'd break even for the most part. If you have a B2B charger, your batteries would recharge faster. You'd need some big batteries to make it through a cold night. For example, 600AH of batteries would be able to run a 200 watt heater for about 30 hours before killing the batteries.