[MsNomer]

Me, too!

Choo, Choo.

 

[proeddie]

Looks amazing!

JC, Thanks! The cellular shades arrived yesterday, so I may get inspired to try an install today.

MS, I've been thinking about the trolley lights you mentioned... looking at railroad lanterns, but not sure if i can use 'em and not hit them while seated. Hmmmm....

 

[proeddie]

Framing the Slider Window

After a few experiments, I decided to box in the slider window so I could then mount a cellular shade to a rectangular opening.

Here's the results:

The assembly is held in place by 4 bolts,2 in the top rail and 2 in the window sill. They go through the angled metal van window frame, through an angled block, and are bolted in place via access from the top and behind the door panel cover. Pretty solid, and it does not protrude out from the slider so there won't be any interference issues as the door slides open.

My new HD "belt-sander-on-an-angled-table" came in handy... not sure I could have sanded the profiles to match the metal door frame without it! Just over 1 1/2" of recess for the shade to fit into.

 

[proeddie]

Finally...Window shades!

Took a few years, but now that the windows are all framed, I ordered and installed cellular shades.
They are "top down, bottom up" dual cell shades...

I selected them because:

1) they are double cellular - more insulation value, less transparent, but not opaque.
2) the TDBU feature usually has strings in the center area of the open space. On these, the strings are at the edges.
3) the strings that keep tension on the shades are attached to the window sill at the bottom so the shades don't sway around while driving
4) very strong magnets keep the headrail attached tightly

One side

and the other,

Up position

Note the way the shade on the slider doesn't stick out so there is no interference when opening or closing.

The feature that puts the strings at the edge and fasteners at the bottom is called "Clearfit" and is very hard to find. These are house shades, not RV shades, and there is only one company that makes 'em. I found 'em at HD but the found other online business that also sell them. One week from order to delivery. Not cheap, but less than flimsier RV versions with a much poorer design on the string part. Mine are light filtering, I thought the room darkening were too dark!

One happy camper!

 

[KNDLKSTMS]

Very clever and nicely done. The looks are well worth the effort.

 

[proeddie]

Front curtain

Before I added the cellular shades I had a curtain velcroed over the side windows on the van. When I took 'em down, I realized that one of the might work for the front window while camping.

I added velcro hook tape to the optional cab shelf and b column. Now I can use a 10' curtain to span from side window to front window to other side window. Takes about 1 minute to install.

The curtain is actually a table skirt that they use at meetings to wrap around a standard folding table. It has a continuous strip of velcro loop material attached at the top. They sell it in various colors and materials. I use these for model train display tables. Google "table skirt" for sellers... lots of choices. They worked well for two years before I added the cell shades for my side windows. I bought 17.5' and cut to 10' length. They are all 29" high.

At night, it I decide to go for a walk, I can still exit the passenger or driver door by lifting the curtain. Quieter than exiting by the slider!

From the outside,

ed

note: as I've mentioned befoere, note that the carport ceiling is pretty close.... I'll have 1" clearance on my maxxair fan, once I install it!

 

[jessep]

I like the sliding door window trim idea! I've been thinking about how to trim that one for a while now. Thanks!

 

[pterodactylptro]

After a few experiments, I decided to box in the slider window so I could then mount a cellular shade to a rectangular opening.

Do you have any more pictures, plans, descriptions on how you built this out? My primary concern is how to get the frame to perfectly fit in the rounded window well. Not only does the rectangle have rounded edges, but the window well is sloped. I would cry... haha.

Note: With my other windows, I opted to have my wall panels go beyond the window edges so there is a recession all around. When I install the cell shades (pretty much like yours from HD), light won't come through... but with the slider and rear doors, I can't do that. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

 

[keeponvaning]

You’ll need a sander (belt or drum or both) for starters!

 

[RDinNHandAZ]

Wow Ed,
You been busy! Great work, now we know why you are not known as AmateurEddie.

 

[keeponvaning]

You’re about 7 months late RD that post goes back to May. Too much sun & heat in AZ?

 

[RDinNHandAZ]

I wondered where the snow was? Did Ed have those done at the 2nd Annual Promaster Mosquito Meet? Oh no, he didn’t as that was in May. It has been nearly 80º here lately, and yes the Sun is shining every day, so maybe.

 

[proeddie]

RD,

To avoid any future confusion, it's ProEddie as in "Promaster" not "professional"!

On the Corvette forums, I'm C7Eddie... now on the Ham Radio forums, I'm AmateurEddie*

*just kidding, we use our call letters there.

Thanks for the compliment... someday I'll finish the project. Ceiling wood panels done, but I need to carpet it, a la KOV. Waiting for warmer weather!

 

[proeddie]

Do you have any more pictures, plans, descriptions on how you built this out? My primary concern is how to get the frame to perfectly fit in the rounded window well. Not only does the rectangle have rounded edges, but the window well is sloped. I would cry... haha.

Note: With my other windows, I opted to have my wall panels go beyond the window edges so there is a recession all around. When I install the cell shades (pretty much like yours from HD), light won't come through... but with the slider and rear doors, I can't do that. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

PTERO,

There are only a few curved parts. All the cross pieces are straight. I made the end pieces wide enough to get to the point in the metal where the curve straightened out.

"B" is tapered, wider at the bottom, and the a curve is sanded in to match the top/bottom curve of the window frame.

"A" was cut with curved ends then the angle was sanded with a HD sander.... this one.

It sets up as a belt sander and the angle made it pretty easy to sand a 45 degree angle into the boards.

The shades are recessed into the window area with plenty of clearance when the door opens. All that 3/4" oak plywood does make the door heavier to open and slide, but it just takes a bit more effort.

Sorry, no plans... just measured off the opening and kept sanding a bit at a time.... lotsa trips from the garage to the van!

On all my windows, there is a board against the glass that keeps light (and views) from getting in at the vertical edges of the window. On the side touching the glass, I cover the plywood with black felt, and it looks like the black mask on the glass is just bigger.

 

[pterodactylptro]

I wondered where the snow was? Did Ed have those done at the 2nd Annual Promaster Mosquito Meet? Oh no, he didn’t as that was in May. It has been nearly 80º here lately, and yes the Sun is shining every day, so maybe.

I'm freezing my buns off here in Dallas with 24 degree nights! My Big Buddy heater is proving to be a Little Punk. I might change my build order to install a decent heater before anything else!

PTERO,

There are only a few curved parts. All the cross pieces are straight. I made the end pieces wide enough to get to the point in the metal where the curve straightened out.
"B" is tapered, wider at the bottom, and the a curve is sanded in to match the top/bottom curve of the window frame.
"A" was cut with curved ends then the angle was sanded with a HD sander.... this one.
It sets up as a belt sander and the angle made it pretty easy to sand a 45 degree angle into the boards.
The shades are recessed into the window area with plenty of clearance when the door opens. All that 3/4" oak plywood does make the door heavier to open and slide, but it just takes a bit more effort. Sorry, no plans... just measured off the opening and kept sanding a bit at a time.... lotsa trips from the garage to the van!
On all my windows, there is a board against the glass that keeps light (and views) from getting in at the vertical edges of the window. On the side touching the glass, I cover the plywood with black felt, and it looks like the black mask on the glass is just bigger.

I have access to a full wood shop so I can ask someone to give me a tutorial on the sander.
OAK?! Why didn't you just use marble? ;-) I'll probably look into alternative/lighter materials since the frame is just to block light and hold the shades.
Thanks for that info, Eddie!

 

[proeddie]

Ceiling Work. Yep, it's started.

After a 3 year build, not much left to do, except for a finished ceiling.

Before the winter, I covered the ceiling with that sticky foam with aluminum foil on the front that comes in rolls at HD.

Then I framed in the ceiling with furring strips bolted with rivnuts to the ceiling crossmembers. Note to Ptero... yep 3/4" plywood... too hard to cut marble!

Then I added cross pieces to hold two layers of 1/2" polyiso... made it easier to install and work with than 1"

Here's a picture of the first layer of polyiso and all the wood strips (no glue.. works well - been in place for about 6 months now... no noise, no movement.

The wires hanging down are for lighting. The center area will be recessed about 1" from the two side panels. Need the added height for the disco ball!

The square cutouts are for speakers I decided to add that will be connected to a separate radio/bt/usb player for the living area. Mentioned in another thread... more to follow.

Second layer of polyiso in place, with light and speaker holes ready. The plywood panels are made and ready to be covered with carpet.

It will be finished with 3 ceiling panels (1/4" plywood to be carpeted)

Speaking of carpet, I covered the two back walls in the toilet/dressing area with the same grey indoor/outdoor carpet. Good match for the interior and outside body color.

This also finishes the clothes hanging area on both sides. Of course the ceiling in that area is still under construction.

Ahhh... progress!

 

[Winston]

on the Ham Radio forums, I'm AmateurEddie*

*just kidding, we use our call letters there.

AmateurEddie de K8IE

 

[proeddie]

K8IE de W1EFM

.... ..

 

[proeddie]

Inspired by Q4A's refrigerator post, I decided to share the non-PM summer project that has kept me from finishing my ceiling in 'de van! The shed was there, but the greenhouse is new. Built from scratch...lots of hours... lots of white paint... did I mention, I hate to paint?

(no, it isn't a parking garage for the campervan...but it would be a good place to store it and still get some juice out of the solar panels (if I had 'em))

 

[proeddie]

Meanwhile, back at the van...

I did manage to get the side panel of the ceiling done... outdoor carpeted with LED lighting (dimmable and individually switchable) and 4 speakers for the new radio/usb/bluetooth unit I installed.

Center panel still in the works... need to figure out how to mount the disco ball! >

On another note,

I'm trying to design a space to store my new Blackstone griddle in the van. I bought it for home use, but I'm addicted! It makes burgers that are better than any done on a BBQ grill! (think smashburgers). It cooks almost anything quickly and easily. They make a 17" version but this double burner unit is 22" from HSN (on sale $119).

Trying to find a storage spot. I would use this more than any other cooking unit in the van now!