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Is this a crazy idea? Roof lighting approach...

3.6K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  RnR  
#1 ·
I don't want to run more wires through my roof, especially since the inside is mostly finished, but I'm really wanting some roof mounted corner lights to help navigate in very dark areas when trying to get into a tight spot out in the woods or primitive campground -- especially after almost driving into a deep hole when trying to turn around in a very dark spot.

I'm thinking of using a small panel like this:


(note the integrated MPPT controller)

To maintain a small SLA battery, like this:


And to put the battery in a water-resistant box, shaded by the solar panel (or one of my bigger panels). The panel would keep the battery topped off, and I could mount a switch on my roof rack just above the driver door, so I could roll down the window and reach up and turn the lights on when needed.

So, basically an entirely separate electrical system from my inner house wiring, entirely self-contained on the roof.

Is this a crazy idea? The biggest drawback that I can think of is the possibility of somebody turning on my lights and discharging my battery when I don't want them turned on.
 
#2 ·
I think it would be cleaner, easier and more practical to tap off the the starter battery, put a switch in the dash and put a flood light on all 4 corners of the bumpers.
No need to do anything on the roof.
Can run all the wiring under the van.
 
#3 ·
That was my other idea, but I was thinking that roof mounted lighting would have better coverage and less likely to get damaged. Any suggestion for good bumper mounted lights?
 
#4 ·
I haven't shopped specifically for that application, but I know from adding LED work lights to the tractor that there's a bazillion aftermarket lights and applications out there. I remember seeing a lot of truck guys finding lights that they flush mounted right into the rear bumper. And the promaster has fog light recesses in the front bumper.
You're right about having the lights up high, but seeing how everything is finished, the only thing I can think that wouldn't be a pain is run the wiring under the van and mounting them low.
 
#6 ·
Do you have an upfitter plug, that would be a good place to tap 12v and could mount the switch on the B-pillard. We mounted a very bright awning light above the backup camera on its housing. Also you can bring in wires thru that housing and run along the back.
 
#7 ·
IMO a totally separate system would just end up being a pain in the rear, and in reality far more difficult than just running another wire. Are you looking to run the light for the front or the rear of the van? LED lights take very little power so in the front you can tap into your chassis battery easily, or even feed off of the running lights. IN the rear many vans have power in the rear columns at the 12v accessory outlet, or again feed off the running lights up top (Just add a small switch).

For outside LED flood light I used two different models, one I'd highly recommend and the other's just "ok".

The top one I used for up front (On both sides) and is what I would use again for all of them if I had to do it again. The light actually wraps all the way around the front of the van from this location!





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The bottom one I used in the rear and I brought it through the back up camera housing, but it's powered by my house batteries. It's adjustable up and down and I chose this one so I can point it over my boat in the back. It's okay, but I don't think I would use it again as I've never actually needed to turn it.

 
#9 ·
^^^ I think that's each, but I purchased them a few years ago so the ad may be different now. I'll try and get some pictures tonight of the throw, it's quite impressive for such a small light.
 
#11 · (Edited)
I ran single 12v positive wires to them from my fused switch panel in the rear of my van. The negative connections grounded to the sheet metal. The lights supposedly work on any DC voltage between 10-30v, and I've had zero issues with them in the two years I've had them.
 
#13 ·
Mag mount lights might be a good alternative -- modern LED lights use so little power that I'd be fine with having something that used NiMH AAs.