This is the stuff I am going to use for part of my isolation. Mine is actually called reflectix, but I think it's the same thing, air bubble aluminum paper.

I have no worries about this product, I checked on an highly active French camping van forum, a lot of people use this stuff as a first layer for isolation. Also, a friend has that installed since a couple years and did not notice any humidity problems.

But be aware that this product will give you minimal thermal isolation and no soundproofing. Most people that use this product add a second layer of thermal isolation, at least that'is was I read.

For noise reduction on the wheel covers, I highly recommend the "dynamat" like stuff I put on my wheels, it's really effective:

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=38354&postcount=8

 

This is the stuff I am going to use for part of my isolation. Mine is actually called reflectix, but I think it's the same thing, air bubble aluminum paper.

I have no worries about this product, I checked on an highly active French camping van forum, a lot of people use this stuff as a first layer for isolation. Also, a friend has that installed since a couple years and did not notice any humidity problems.

But be aware that this product will give you minimal thermal isolation and no soundproofing. Most people that use this product add a second layer of thermal isolation, at least that'is was I read.

For noise reduction on the wheel covers, I highly recommend the "dynamat" like stuff I put on my wheels, it's really effective:

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=38354&postcount=8

Actually, that's why I'm considering Prodex, it gives R16 insulation, has no moisture problems, is a vapor barrier and reduces noise by 19db (with the walls panels that should be significant.) Here's info from the website: "R16: unaffected by humidity : Prevents 97% of radiant heat transfer : Vapor barrier : Elastic : 19dba noise reduction : Does not promote mold or mildew: Keeps its shape over time (doesn't collapse)"

 

In deed, your product looks better than mine, too bad I didn't find it before.

 

To protect from condensation in the walls we need a continuous vapor barrier near the inside wall. Something like Prodex would be good as long as you seal all the seams.

 

Papab, if I get you right, the bubble aluminum paper should be on the inside wall, not directly applied on the metal panels?

I plan to use for sound isolation on the side walls mineral wool (Roxul). I does not provide great heat isolation, but I mostly care about the noise.

So, I should put the mineral wool and then the aluminum paper, right?

Thanks!

 

Flooring--- Just purchased (3) 4x8 sheets of .25" ABS plastic to line my floor with, just under $300.00.
I prefer rubber mats but not at the risk of the smell. I doubt you'll find rubber mats that don't smell. I installed one in my Sprinter 3 years ago and it still smells. Whatever you put down, I'd suggest 2 layers of 15# roofing felt underneath.
Next, line the rear 7' with 1/4" ply, no insulation, too risky for moisture buildup and the tools will survive. Front 5', 1/4" ply with glue-down carpet for a nice finish. Will apply thin insulation layer directly to the panels, mostly for sound deadening and leave an air space so that air moves through all of the wall and exits via the (2) vents that are in the rear of the van, as designed. Insulation is great until it traps moisture.

 

Here's a solution that sounds great, but haven't seen it available in North America, sprayed cork:

http://forum.bernard.debucquoi.com/viewtopic.php?t=6942&sid=30c486f71863d05579c74991bc073cdc

It even looks good!

Cork is a good soundproofing material, provides moderate to good weather isolation and is light. I wouldn't worry about humidity, they use cork at large on boats. I plan to use it on my roof top. But boy, would I love that sprayed coark!

 

Thanks for the link
I ordered last night and I have no van yet!
But at least I will be ready for it.

 

Hello, just saw the post here for using ABS plastic but wishing for rubber that doesnt smell.

We offer a rigid HDPE plastic floor with a Rubberized surface that will give you the best of both worlds. Our floor wouldn't cost you any more than you paid by the time you cut and install it, and it is totally done for you. We also offer the wall and ceiling liner that you see in the pictures as well. These panels are a honeycomb cellular material, so help a lot with noise deadening and also temperature and moisture control as the have an interior air gab to help prevent moisture build up.

Take a look at the picture and let me know if you have any questions.

Regards,

Kyle Carpani
Sales Manager
Legend Fleet Solutions
866-223-2256

 

That is a very nice looking interior.
Do you have a kit that includes the aluminum roof line trims?
Do the stock wall panels need to be removed for this kit?
What is the cost of this setup for a low roof 136"?

Thank you!

 

Prodex Insulation

Just wondered how those that used the Prodex like it?? How was it installed? Directly onto the metal or with an air space? Any concerns with off gassing?

Reading about it, it seems like the perfect product for insulating a PM.... Thoughts??

 

Prodex Insulation

Just wondered how those that used the Prodex like it?? How was it installed? Directly onto the metal or with an air space? Any concerns with off gassing?

Reading about it, it seems like the perfect product for insulating a PM.... Thoughts??

i looked into that material and after some investigation decided not to use it because of the poor R value. It appears manufactures use different methods to some a high value. Propex requires at least an inch of air space between van walls to be effective. Then insulation and wall panels. Look on other forums regarding prodex to find how they conduct the R value tests and the control methods. In my opinion not a great choice for vans trying to maximize space.

 

According to their documentation, Prodex is 5mm thick and requires an "Airspace of 2.64 inch on each side of product" to achieve the R16. This is similar to Reflectix. Without the air space your get about R1-2 iirc.

I recommend the Thinsulate we sell. Prodex would make a great moisture barrier on the inside before your wall panels. It's a proven method. Thinsulate will be much quieter over a broader frequency spectrum due to it's thickness. Absorption of low frequencies (road rumble, Harley passing) requires a thick material.

 

I'm in the process of doing my van.
On the walls I'm starting with:
25% coverage or more butyl rubber sound mat
thin closed cell foam (de-coupler)
Mass loaded vinyl sheet
thin closed cell foam (de-coupler)
1" foam
Propex or ezcool (same stuff) Ebay for best deal
Thinsulate 1/2" thick stuff
Thinsulate on inside of exposed panel
Thinsulate under upholstery

The roof is going to be Propex attached with thick double sided tape so there will be some air space in the channels followed by multilayers of thiner thinsulate as described above.
I'm also using adhesive backed aluminum coated foam (duct insulation)in select areas.

My sound proofing will be limited to the side walls and heavy around the wheel wells, the roof is not that critical as not much sound comes from above.
I'm using spay adhesive, aluminum tape, and 3m double sided tape

It is a tedious process to cut and fit all the pieces for maximum sound and insulation.

 

When you get old and half deaf, like me, you won't have to even consider sound deadening:laugh:

 

That's a lot of different materials,got everything covered,for myself I would be concerned on the cost,thanks for the info

 

Most of the materials are cheap, MLV, closed cell foam (floor underlayment) foam butyl rubber all at home depot cheap, 3m thinsulate at some fabric stores online, propex ebay.
Also swimming pool liner is a closed cell poly. Allot of the same materials used in auto soundproofing is used in other applications and tend to be lower cost when not marketed as auto related.It I had the bucks I would use all aerogel insulation.

 

Thinsulate is a great insulator and sound proofer, but for low frequencies, low drown of road noise from wheels, MLV works better and takes up less space. Dynamat is not mass loading, it's function is to arrest the vibration of panels only, that's why it is unnecessary to cover the entire area with this stuff. I would recommend putting the aluminum covered butyl rubber on (25% coverage) before anything else you use because it is cheap and it works.

 

Good points. We stock Thinsulate SM600L and the graph below shows that is blocks low frequencies pretty well.

 

What is MLV?

 

When I did my 2008 sprinter,used 2inch and thinner foam boards and fiberglass insulation,to me it worked and took a wall down and found no rust or dampness also used the grace black stick on stuff can't think of the name it did stiffen the panels,this seemed like a much cheaper way I did the the foam bd as used to keep the price down,do you guys feel the other methods are better??

 

Looks like vinyl flooring, heavy, flexible, used in walls and floors for sound control. Mass Loaded Vinyl. Comes in clear too (expensive). Everything I have used I have purchased for probably less the half price it is retailed for in auto use. Do research on the composition of the product rather than the name.

 

I got the Legend liner and I have to say I'm not really happy with it. It's put together in several puzzles pieces which don't cover the middle rib or wheel well, and also sag on the roof. The little black plastic brads are popping off.

The floor is in 2 pieces with the connections right in the middle of the traffic way. It didn't come with long enough bolts so the dealership cut big holes for my tie downs and now dirt and dog food, etc gets into those holes and under the floor.
There was no liner pieces for the side door. So there is a lot of metal area left exposed.

;(

 

Is the vender addressing the problems?