I like my diesel promaster, I want to keep it, and I hope that by the time my powertrain warranty runs out I've learned enough to make it stand the test of time. But, I'm not married to the idea, and if I have to take a loss to move on and make my life easier, so be it. Time will tell.

Here's things I've learned so far. Please do add and expand.

THE TRANSMISSION

1. Mine failed after 20k miles because the actuator did not use neutral. I now manually shift to N when necessary.

2. After 40k miles on the new transmission, I was already getting the first signs of slippage. The dealer considers the clutch oil to be lifetime oil and will not service it. I did it myself using Ravenol SAE 75w-80 manual transmission fluid full synthetic api gl-4. It's pricey stuff, as of this writing Amazon offers it for $23 a quart and you'll need three of them. The change was instant, no more slipping. If you go the DIY route, make sure you remove the fill plug first to make sure you can do so. Don't ask me how I know.

THE GLOW PLUGS AND INJECTORS

1. Water enters the engine bay and corrodes the glow plug and injectors. The glow plugs may/will break off upon removal, and drilling them out may go sideways with a new head required. This is where I'm at the moment; it's covered under warranty, the injectors will be replaced too, and the dealer is helpful to the point of saying they'll replace the entire motor if they ruin the head in order to get me on my way faster (it's a long story, I'm grateful this one seems to be working out well - but it's still ongoing and I'll reserve judgement until all is said and done).

I will soon be remedying that situation via these instructions on how to stop the water ingress. Thank you to the author, whoever you are.
Promaster: 7 Ways To Stop Cowl Leaks - BACK ROADS AND OTHER STORIES

DEF STUFF

I've had a def pump replaced at 6k miles and never another issue since. Color me inexperienced in this area. I like it that way, I hope it stays that way.

BEWARE THE DEALER/ WARRANTY/ SERVICE EXPERIENCE

Some dealers and service departments are wonderful, some are not. If at all possible, identify the good one(s) prior. For the diesel, your options are considerably fewer.

PARKING CABLES, HEADLIGHTS, ANYTHING ELSE

No experience there, please do add...

The actuator also has Dot 4 and hydraulic fluid that needs to be changed every 40,000 miles or 2 years my local Ram dealer just changed mine at 76,000 miles. cost 150.00
I've had 2 glow plug failures number 2 at 27,000 miles and number 4 at 74,000 miles the first time they changed the head the second they drilled and removed the bad plug after it broke.
After the second glow plug failure I fabricated a plastic cover to shield the top of the motor to prevent another glow plug failure the water also leaks in at the fresh air intake joint under the hood.
I'm not understanding the slippage being stopped by changing the gearbox oil the clutch is dry
If they change your head make sure they tear it down first in order to get correct one there are different heads not recorded by vin number

Here's a link to the transmission manual

ROBOTIZED GEARBOX M40 | Manualzz

manualzz.com

 

To OP, great post btw! Please elaborate for me please. I changed the clutch actuator fluid after 2 years. I thought that was the clutch fluid. You stated the dealer considers the clutch fluid to be lifetime . Are you referring to the automated manual transmission’s fluid instead? Is that the fluid you changed? Like you, I want the transmission to live a long life.

 

2much2c,

No, the clutch actuator fluid is NOT the clutch oil. The clutch oil is not considered serviceable because the powers that be, for reasons I do not understand, labeled the oil inside of the clutch as lifetime oil. However, the clutch has a fill plug and a drain plug. The oil within is drained by removing the drain plug and refilled by putting new oil in via the fill port until no more goes in - it'll start coming back out of the fill port.

For me personally, going forward I'll pick up 3 quarts of said oil, take it to a well regarded local transmission shop, and have them drain the clutch and refill it. I'll also be doing it regularly. Do keep in mind, I have personally decided to over-ride the advice from FCA - but it's my van, my money, and at the end of the day it's my responsibility. I hate too that I could potentially be jeopardizing my warranty. I've thought it through and this is how I've decided to proceed. Having lost a tranny at 20k miles certainly played a part in that. YMMV.

HVAC1957,

"I'm not understanding the slippage being stopped by changing the gearbox oil the clutch is dry"

I don't know what to say. I do know what I experienced.

 

Nate check page 43 of the manual the actuator fluids ( Dot 4 & hydraulic) have a maintenance schedule the dealer usually doesn't recommend it because they don't know about it maybe for a reason I had to bring in the manual and show them the maintenance schedule they brought out a promaster mechanic to estimate a price and luckily he had performed this before during clutch replacements he quoted one hour labor plus fluids my gearbox oil (75-80 W) was changed at 29,000 and 76,000 due to the axle bearings being replaced (leaking)

 

Hi HVAC.

Yes, I'm aware the transmission's actuator has fluids which are part of scheduled maintenance. It's the oil in the transmission itself that is not part of scheduled maintenance. From posts on facebook's "promaster owners group", there have been reported instances of the diesel being turned into the dealer with a request to have the clutch oil changed and the dealer refusing because it's not listed as required. That was the source of my dilemma.

It was a post by the user Dario on this forum that swung my decision...

"Hi, I have a running 2014 Diesel promaster van 438k miles. You should
change your transmission oil periodically (every 30k)or near. Manual
owner said nothing about it, and dealers said never need to be
changed. Gears in your transmission make friction and generates metal
debris. This transmission has not oil filter, not oil pump, only a
little piece of magnet, not enough to trap all the iron debris inside.
This transmission has about 6 little bearing with plastic holder cases
(balls separators are plastics) on each gear wheels. Very fragile. Any
debris is enough to mess it. Oil change is the way to flush and clean
it. Drain plug is in the bottom of differential case on driver side.
Refill plug is the other like drain, and you can find it in the front
face of the transmission over the speed sensor. You are going to need
a piece of hose and a funnel, Fill 3 liters of gear lubes 75w 85 or
similar. NOT ATF, THIS IS NOT AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. BUT 6 SPEED
AUTOMATED MANUAL TRANSMISSION. Easy and worth it ,About 15 dollar at
Walmart. Do not work your van idle. Idle affect particle filter,
engine, and transmission. While idle your transmission is running but
is not enough lubricated because the oil do not splash the uppers
shaft which are spinning and dry. Tires are not moving because your
clutch is working to keep disengaging."

 

Hi HVAC.

Yes, I'm aware the transmission's actuator has fluids which are part of scheduled maintenance. It's the oil in the transmission itself that is not part of scheduled maintenance. From posts on facebook's "promaster owners group", there have been reported instances of the diesel being turned into the dealer with a request to have the clutch oil changed and the dealer refusing because it's not listed as required. That was the source of my dilemma.

It was a post by the user Dario on this forum that swung my decision...

"Hi, I have a running 2014 Diesel promaster van 438k miles. You should
change your transmission oil periodically (every 30k)or near. Manual
owner said nothing about it, and dealers said never need to be
changed. Gears in your transmission make friction and generates metal
debris. This transmission has not oil filter, not oil pump, only a
little piece of magnet, not enough to trap all the iron debris inside.
This transmission has about 6 little bearing with plastic holder cases
(balls separators are plastics) on each gear wheels. Very fragile. Any
debris is enough to mess it. Oil change is the way to flush and clean
it. Drain plug is in the bottom of differential case on driver side.
Refill plug is the other like drain, and you can find it in the front
face of the transmission over the speed sensor. You are going to nee d
a piece of hose and a funnel, Fill 3 liters of gear lubes 75w 85 or
similar. NOT ATF, THIS IS NOT AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. BUT 6 SPEED
AUTOMATED MANUAL TRANSMISSION. Easy and worth it ,About 15 dollar at
Walmart. Do not work your van idle. Idle affect particle filter,
engine, and transmission. While idle your transmission is running but
is not enough lubricated because the oil do not splash the uppers
shaft which are spinning and dry. Tires are not moving because your
clutch is working to keep disengaging."

Yes I have read Dario's post the gearbox oil should be changed every 30 to 50 K miles just as a good practice. I always use mine in manual mode and up shift as needed putting in neutral at stops so far transmission issue free at 78,000 miles

 

Same miles as mine and so far so great!

 

Just a little update.

My check engine light together with the glow plug light resulted in a new "long block" motor at 60k miles.

The advisor mentioned they will ensure the new engine's glow plugs get a coating of anti-sieze thread lube.

 

Thanks for the update Nate. Maybe your experience will direct the course of mine. Still waiting for dealer, STAR and Italy to figure it out.

 

Maybe FCA can't get the original head anymore thus requiring complete engine replacement. Nate if you can ask your service adviser why your getting a complete engine replacement instead of just the head this might help dn navigate his issues

 

HVAC - that appears to be the problem. My dealer received head #3, checked the casing stamp and located it on the "list". The service rep said that when ordering the part only the part # is listed whereas the casing stamp is not and thus there is no way of knowing if what they get is viable or not until they get it. Argh!! As well, from our conversations, Nate is in a more pressing situation than mine which may have stimulated a quicker fix.. He lives out of his van when not on the high seas, whereas we live in out van when sailing to the high seas. Regardless, it sounds like his dealer is able to think and act outside the warranty box.

 

Now I'm wondering if my last broken glow plug was just that a drill out and repair because the head isn't available anymore? Other wise why would they change the head the first time then on the second broken plug try a repair first . My build was 3-15 at Mexican plant
dn maybe you should just push for a new motor

 

Original post on diesel longevity tips much appreciated. 1. Will be doing an gearbox oil change for sure; 2. will be fabricating a simple cover over injectors and glow plugs as I have observed snow in cowl/under wipers melt and drip into glow plug area.

In the UK mechanics seem to have no issues servicing our trannies etc. It would be helpful to keep a post that expands on these longevity tips including - if possible - lists of mechanics experienced/familiar with our diesel. That includes Ram dealers that seem to be solid (like Nate's?) and any independent mechanics that know our rigs and are willing work on them.

 

Original post on diesel longevity tips much appreciated. 1. Will be doing an gearbox oil change for sure; 2. will be fabricating a simple cover over injectors and glow plugs as I have observed snow in cowl/under wipers melt and drip into glow plug area.

In the UK mechanics seem to have no issues servicing our trannies etc. It would be helpful to keep a post that expands on these longevity tips including - if possible - lists of mechanics experienced/familiar with our diesel. That includes Ram dealers that seem to be solid (like Nate's?) and any independent mechanics that know our rigs and are willing work on them.

I use Bettenhausen Ram in Tinley Park Illinois I've been very happy with the mechanics so far but still under warranty

 

Pushing. Nate can answer this more specifically, but I don't think it's that his mechanics are all that savy more that he can't wait for them to figure things out.

 

"Nate if you can ask your service adviser why your getting a complete engine replacement instead of just the head this might help dn navigate his issues"

It's a long backstory: the dash on my van went dark and the transmission light came on at the same time so I had to take it in, turned out to be just a blown fuse. Since it was there for repairs they immediately saw the cel and glow plug light and got to work, and promptly broke the glow plug. Except that I had already informed the service advisor to leave it alone if they couldn't extract it because I'd rather have my van running - but that message was never relayed to the technician. And, that advisor was laid off right in the midst of all this. As soon as I found out I had a broken glow plug, I immediately went in and talked to the service supervisor - told him I had given express instructions NOT to break the glow plug but leave it alone if they couldn't remove it intact -- and that I was now homeless. That worked wonders. He did everything he could from that point on.

I think they ended up breaking 3 out of the 4 glow plugs. I don't know if they went so far as to try drilling them out. The service supervisor immediately set about getting an eta for all the necessary parts, and had told me that if the head needs to be replaced they'll just put in a new "long block" motor because if the repair costs pencil out to 70% they're authorized to do so. It all seemed to happen very quickly, and I didn't particularly care about the details once I understood I wasn't going to be left high and dry. They understood my situation, I thanked them for their help, and I left.

"Now I'm wondering if my last broken glow plug was just that a drill out and repair because the head isn't available anymore? Other wise why would they change the head the first time then on the second broken plug try a repair first"

I don't know their thought process. For me, I preferred simply being on my way sooner instead of later. Perhaps they're putting in a new motor now because of the bungling that came about from the lack of communication. Or perhaps they did try drilling out the plugs and ended up ruining the head. I'm not sure. But it does feel a little surreal to have a $11 (I checked) glow plug incident responsible for receiving a whole new motor. Ain't that something?!

"That includes Ram dealers that seem to be solid (like Nate's?) and any independent mechanics that know our rigs and are willing work on them."

I've had enough experience by this point to understand that I have to be proactive in finding the good dealers. First dealer I called about towing in my busted down van told me I needed an appointment. I couldn't hear them very well either and with 2 strikes against them before I even got there I just hung up. Second place I called was on-point so that's where I ended up. Obviously from the story I told above, there were still some strange twists and turns before all is said and done, but it seems to be going fine.

We play the hand we're dealt.

 

In the UK mechanics seem to have no issues servicing our trannies etc.

heaphy,

Are there any websites in the UK where one can find used parts? Used heads being a great example.

In the U.S. we have rockauto.com for new parts and lkqonline.com for used parts.

 

Fantastic post, Nate. Glad to read how you've figured out/gotten a few things sorted.

To you -- and all others reading -- avoid Grand Junction CJDR at all costs. They have a few capable techs but the service manager is a freaking POS that couldn't give a hoot about your van, who cares only about his bottom line.

 

Thanks Mike. I will keep that in mind. I LOVE that area. It was only recently I discovered Grand Mesa...

 

Yep, the Mesa is a special place. ATV's and UTV's (along with the dual plagues of entitlement and ignorance that are no longer uncommon) change it a bit more every year. Still worth spending time up there, tho.

Unfortunately, if you have a problem with your PM in (or near) W. CO its hard to avoid the GJ dealer. I had some luck going to Montrose for service, but never tried Glenwood. Montrose was bad enough at an hour each way.

 

Now I'm wondering if my last broken glow plug was just that a drill out and repair because the head isn't available anymore? Other wise why would they change the head the first time then on the second broken plug try a repair first .

HVAC,

I just caught this.

Why would you have a cylinder head replaced (obviously with new glow plugs put in which must have received anti-seize on the threads) and have another broken glow plug afterwards?

Anyways, it turns out my van is getting a new cylinder head instead of a new motor as Ram didn't approve the new motor. I did ask whether they can assure me the new head will be good compared to what dnelsonid posted above about having a bad head installed and then being left hang to dry afterwards. I was assured the new cylinder head would be good.

Having said all that, I have lost confidence in my diesel van. The frequency of problems I've had, along with the costs and associated downtime, have resulted in me checking out other options. I will be trading this thing in and moving on.

 

Nate,

Anti seize doesn't matter water collects around the injectors and glow plugs seizing them bad design water infiltrates the engine compartment . Make sure they tear down your engine first before they order the replacement head and gaskets dn doesn't have a bad head they installed the wrong head.

 

Thanks HVAC.

Yeah, the motor's already been dropped, they did that as soon as they broke a plug and realized they'd have to drill the head. I don't know if they always have to drop the motor in order to remove the head, but that's some crazy labor costs right there. All for a glow plug.

It's time to stick a fork in it.

 

Probably 8 to 10 thousand I think, The last glow plug failure they removed the grill and cross member to access the glow plug for extraction they also replaced the glow plug harness because of corrosion After I got it back the second time I fabricated a plastic cover to shield the engine from water dripping on the top of it

 

New head, technically #4 if we’re keeping track, arrived and supposedly has passed muster. Install scheduled for this week. Fingers, toes, eyes crossed.

 

Think of all the fuel you saved with that diesel though.

 

LOL.

I do love that fuel mileage. Best thing about my van if you were to ask me. That's everything else being equal though. Truth is, everything else isn't equal. I know that now.

No biggie. Life goes on, and as long as I'm still around for it, I can too.

 

Just glanced at bloomberg.com/energy. Oil is $20 and change at the moment. Saving money on gas just doesn't carry the same gravitas any more.

Times change.

 

Just glanced at bloomberg.com/energy. Oil is $20 and change at the moment. Saving money on gas just doesn't carry the same gravitas any more.

Times change.

Gas is at 1.79 Diesel 2.55 right now in Cook county Illinois no savings right now at all

 

Actually there is, as I get 150% of the fuel mileage of the gasser (26+mpg compared to 17 mpg). Don’t forget that in my 5 years of ownership diesel was at par or cheaper than gas for nearly 2 years of that time and generally runs 5%-10% more. You can criticise the diesel for some things but It will always be much cheaper to buy fuel as it is using your example. Do the math.

 

They must have made a special one for you RD I get 22 city highway mix blah blah blah

 

RD has a "light" touch so to speak. Plus, he never drives over 35 MPH, downhill on clear sunny days (so I've been told).

 

Maybe RD has an anti gravity device installed thus lowering the rolling resistance increasing his mileage I hope he will share his design with the group