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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Hi,
That drain channel stuff is interesting.

By providing an air and water channel right next to the van sheet metal, it does seem like it would speed up drying out after a condensation period, but also seems like it would increase the condensation rate during a condensation period by providing another path for water vapor laden air to get directly to the van skin?

Gary
 
Hi Harry,
What do you feel are the challenges to the insulation in dealing with high outside summer temps maybe along with an AC operating inside?

What do people think is the best choice for van insulation in a hot climate? And, why?

And, thanks again for providing the Wool for the test!

Gary
Happy to help.

Our thanks also should go to FTCCamper who provided the wool and shipping for a highly supportive price and went to a lot of effort to keep things inexpensive.

He was very supportive or your idea to test the wool and other materials for insulation.

(as well as my somewhat silly idea of sending some to my grand daughters along with the lyrics to baa baa black sheep for Christmas)

____

The items that create challenges for summer insulation efforts:
  • The steel skin temperature can hit 70 C in the sun
  • The steel skin surface is affected not only by the air temperature, but also by considerable UV and IR impinging on the surface
  • The steel ribs are very effective at bridging from the outer skin to the inner van area.
  • The thermal conductance of insulation is very temperature dependent. Insulations that have low thermal conductance at (-20 C) are not the same as the ones with low thermal conductance at 60 C.
  • Window are of course terrible
  • Sound dampeners such as mass loaded materials (at least using the touch with my finger test) are very effective as thermal conductors and appear to have high thermal mass as well.

I am not sure that I know what is optimal, but some items that I am considering:

Lizard skin
  • I have been inside of a Transit that was customer sprayed with lizard skin acoustic insulation. (only)
  • It was surprisingly cool inside even though it was a flat black surface and had no real insulation in it
  • The surface was too friable to use "as is"

Ceramic ball loaded paints
  • I have a little bit of experience with HyTech coatings paint. Not enough to make a statement
  • The ceramic ball additive makes a lot of technical sense, because these can act as IR retro reflectors.
  • I know this van owner and he is fairly thorough in his analysis. He used lizard skin ceramic paint with positive effects.

BMW Paint
  • I don't know what BMW uses in their paint, but two vehicles parked next to each other with very similar colors, the BMWs will almost always be cooler to the touch.
  • I suspect ceramic retro reflector balls, but don't know.

Wool
  • I am still searching for papers on the use of insulations that are tested for this range of 60 C on one side and 20 C on the other
  • Wool appears to have one of the more consistent thermal conductance values over a wide temperature range.
Baltic Birch / 1 mm layered
  • I have not done the testing yet, but again using my "fingers", the conductance of 13 layer, 18mm thick baltic birch seems to be lower than standard plywood.
  • While the conductance of wood is nothing special in general for insulation, it's other mechanical properties are remarkably consistent over a wide range of temperatures. More so than I ever imagined vs polymers.

Polyurethane
- Again - very consistent properties

Polyiso
- The numbers that I have seen for conductance make it a poor choice for use over the automotive temperature range, IMHO
 
@GaryBIS
One way to do it(check your alerts on the Transit forum).
"The stock van has vent holes all along the rocker sill plates, except for the rear wheel kick panels. I installed a ventilation system inside the partitions to dry out the wool at all key places, low sills, top of window frames, top of wind shield frame, etc, and the rear kick panels too.

Got two Attwood 3'' bildge fans one for each side, very efficient and quiet, 185 cfm each on 12v. Hoses are 1 1/4 black vacuum hose, installed 120 feet of it throughout the entire van, drilled some 1/8 holes where I needed air to blow out of it to vent humidity out.

All walls, floors and roof have 0.006'' water full vapor barriers clear plastic wrap sealing off inside living space from vented partitions."
69260

69261

69262
 
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I did some tests of the insulation types commonly used to insulate van conversions. It seems like there are so many claims and opinions on the best type of insulation to use in van conversions, that some actual data might be helpful to people trying to decide (the other factor is that I’m Covid bored and really needed a project to work on).

Image


I used this test box in which the temperature and humidity can be controlled. It has 4 bays that allow insulation samples to be installed and their performance compared side by side.

For this test, left to right, its Polyiso, Thinsulate and Wool plus bay with no insulation.

Mostly I was testing for how the insulations handle moisture and condensation, but also some IR pictures to compare thermal performance and have also started a mold test.

This is quite a bit of data and all the details are here: Insulation Testing – For Van Conversions – Build A Green RV
But, some highlights below...

The first test compares Wool, Thinsulate and Polyiso.

The parameters that are measured and logged during the test are:
  • Temperature and relative humidity inside the box
  • Temperature and humidity outside the box
  • Humidity in the middle of each insulation sample
  • Initial and final weights of each insulation sample (to measure moisture accumulation)
  • Thermal camera pictures for rough assessment of thermal performance

Generally a test run starts by weighing and then installing each insulation sample in its own bay. Then the inside of box temperature and humidity are set on the controller. The test is then run for a time roughly equal to a night in an RV. Photos and IR pictures are taken once in a while during the test to record condensation levels and see if there are any changes in thermal performance. At the end of this period, the insulation samples are weighed to get water pickup, and then quickly reinstalled. Then the humidifier is turned off while the heater is left on, and ventilation is increased to get a warm and dry environment in the box for drying. The test then continues until all of the insulation samples have dried out, and a final weight of each sample is taken.

Condensation:
The main goal of the test was to see how much condensation forms for the different insulation types both on the cold van wall and in the outer layers of the insulation. To test this, the box was kept at 70F and 70% relative humidity for about 14 hours - kind of a typical camping night. Outside temperature was about 40F.

The front wall of the box is made from Plexiglass so that the condensation can be directly observed.
Here is one set of pictures that shows the extent of condensation near the end of the test.

This is the Plexiglass with no insulation and the Wool insulation:
Image

Plexiglass on right and wool on left.

This is the Thinsulate and Polyiso at the same time:

Image

Thinsulate on right and Polyiso on left.

The Plexiglass of course forms lots of condensation (like a window on the van), the Thinsulate is next with quite a bit on condensation on the Plexiglass and in the outer part of the Thinsulate batt, and the Wool also (by this time) has a significant amount of condensation, the Polyiso does not show any condensation.

The details link up above has closeups and more detail on how long it took each kind of insulation to form condensation.

The Thinsualte and Wool do behave differently - the wool (it appears) absorbs some of the moisture in its fibers and this delays the formation of condensation compared to the Thinsulate. This may or may not be an advantage depending on what you think about the insulating material absorbing moisture -- some would feel this is not a good thing.

Weighing the batts for moisture absorption:
I weighed each of the insulation at start of test (dry), and after a nights worth of humid conditions (max moisture), and then again after a drying period.
The table below shows the results on moisture pick up for each insulation.



InsulationStarting Weight (grams)End humid period
(grams)
Humid period gain
(grams)
End drying period
(grams)
Gain over test
(grams)
Wool7688043678214
Thinsulate640651116411
Polyiso27027002700

Hopefully the table does not get mangled by the forum software, but each insulation performs differently.

Polyiso does not absorb any moisture throughout the whole test.

Thinsulate absorbs 11 grams of water in the batt, and manages to dry all but 1 gram out during the drying period.

Wool absorbs 36 grams of water in the batt, and manages to dry 22 grams out during the drying period, but still retains 14 grams at the end of the drying period. This raises the possbility that there will be less capacity to absorb moisture the next night.



Humidity Level in Batts:
I put a humidity logger half way into the thickness of each of the insulation - the next three pictures show humidity levels in the middle of each insulation batt for the test...

Wool:
Image


Thinsulate:

Image


Polyiso:

Image


They do behave differently.
The Thinsulate rapidly rises to a high level and then stays there for the duration.
The Wool rises more gradually, but eventually gets to about the same high level.

The Polyiso gradually rises to a lower max level. But, not sure the Polyiso readings are that valid in that the way the humidity level is measured probably allowed a bit of air to leak into where the sensor was.


Thermal Performance IR pictures:
I wanted to get a rough idea if the condensation that forms in the fiber insulations reduced R value, so took IR pictures when the insulations were dry and then again after a nights worth of condensation.

This is the dry IR picture:
Image


and, this is the picture after 14 hours of condensation:
Image


Not a whole lot of difference, so I'd say the condensation in the fiber insulations does not degrade R value too much (surprising to me).


Conclusions:
First, I would encourage everyone to read over the test details and see what they mean to you in your situation.

Beyond that, here are a few things that seem pretty obvious…
  • Judging by thermal pictures, all of the insulation types tested do insulate! And, it appears that for the level of condensation in this test, the insulating properties (R values) are not strongly effected by the condensation (which surprised me).
  • Both of the fiber insulations (wool and Thinsulate) do allow water vapor to penetrate and condense both in the outer layers of insulation and on the van wall. The Polyiso with sealing around the edges did not let water vapor penetrate and does not condense water on either its outer or inner face.
  • The wool appears to have less visible condensation than the Thinsulate – probably due to some of the water being absorbed into the wool itself. Havelock calls this moisture management, but others would say that having insulation absorb water into its fibers is just not a good thing. Take your choice
I'd be very interested in what peoples thoughts are on this??

Again, much more detail here: Insulation Testing – For Van Conversions – Build A Green RV
Also have a mold test going, which is explained at the link.

Gary
Nice work and thank you. What was the mold content or buildup? Did you leave it long enough to find this out, I am curious over time wht will occur
 
From this experiment, Would you suggest that if you have polyiso sealed against the body and greatstuff filling all the other gaps and cracks that you don't actually need a vapor barrier?
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited)
Nice work and thank you. What was the mold content or buildup? Did you leave it long enough to find this out, I am curious over time wht will occur
Hi,
The mold test is still going, and the MSU mold expert says it will likely take weeks before we get a result. So far, no visible mold colonies.
I will post the results no matter which way it goes.

I have the mold experiment going on in a temperature controlled enclosure with the temperature set to 78F, and every few days I'm using a spray bottle to keep the humidity high.

Gary
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
From this experiment, Would you suggest that if you have polyiso sealed against the body and greatstuff filling all the other gaps and cracks that you don't actually need a vapor barrier?
Hi,
I don't think a 2nd vapor barrier is ever a good idea. The van sheet metal is a near perfect barrier, and two vapor barriers is generally considered a no-no because space between the vapor barriers has no way to dry out.

I do think that the polyiso as you describe is likely fine -- there really should be no condensation forming at all with polyiso because there is no way the water vapor can get through the Polyiso to the cold van sheet metal because the Polyiso is impermeable to water vapor, and the temperature on the inside surface of the Polyiso is normally above the dew point, so no condensation there either. That's my 2 cents :)

Gary
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
@GaryBIS
One way to do it(check your alerts on the Transit forum).
"The stock van has vent holes all along the rocker sill plates, except for the rear wheel kick panels. I installed a ventilation system inside the partitions to dry out the wool at all key places, low sills, top of window frames, top of wind shield frame, etc, and the rear kick panels too.

Got two Attwood 3'' bildge fans one for each side, very efficient and quiet, 185 cfm each on 12v. Hoses are 1 1/4 black vacuum hose, installed 120 feet of it throughout the entire van, drilled some 1/8 holes where I needed air to blow out of it to vent humidity out.

All walls, floors and roof have 0.006'' water full vapor barriers clear plastic wrap sealing off inside living space from vented partitions."
View attachment 69260
View attachment 69261
View attachment 69262
Hi Phil,
That's an impressive ventilation scheme. I guess I don't fully understand how it works, but I guess the aim is to get dry air to all the areas where the wool insulation is installed, and that should certainly help the drying out after a condensation period. It does seem a bit complicated?

Apparently not a lot of interest in the insulation tests over on the Transit forum. It is curious to me how the opinion on best insulation varies from forum to forum -- the Transit forum seems to favor Thinsulate (and maybe wool more lately), with hardly any talk about Polyiso. But, here on the PM forum Polyiso seems to be favored with some use of the others.
But, I don't read the other forums much, so maybe missing stuff.

Gary
 
When you say wool, I assum your are talking wool from sheep which is relatively expensive. Woo9l is known to keep people warm even when it is wet. Another option is rock wool which is spun rock. one of its properties is that it repels water whch would seem to indicate it might repel humidty. I have been told that fiber glass insulation is the worst to use because it absorbs water and holds it.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
When you say wool, I assum your are talking wool from sheep which is relatively expensive. Woo9l is known to keep people warm even when it is wet. Another option is rock wool which is spun rock. one of its properties is that it repels water whch would seem to indicate it might repel humidty. I have been told that fiber glass insulation is the worst to use because it absorbs water and holds it.
Hi,
I think rockwool would behave very much like Thinsulate or fiberglass. That is, the fibers of the insulation do not absorb water - they are hydrophobic. But, all of these fiber based insulations readily pass water vapor through them -- this is easy to prove -- just blow on them -- they are very open to airflow, and the air flow includes water vapor. Water vapor is a gas (not a liquid) and is completely mixed with the air that carries it. When this air containing water vapor reaches a cold surface (any surface below the dew point temperature) it will start to condense out a droplets of water. This will happen in the cold outer layers of the insulation where it will form condensation droplets on the insulation fibers (but will not be absorbed into the fibers if the fibers are hydrophobic), and it will happen on the van sheet metal. This will make the outer layers of the insulation and the van sheet metal wet with liquid water. This is exactly what the testing showed -- droplets of condensation in the outer part of the insulation and on the van skin. To the best of my knowledge, there is no such thing as "repeling humidity" -- liquid water condensation will form on any surface that is below the dew point temperature of the water vapor/air mixture.

Gary
 
I'd be very interested in what peoples thoughts are on this??
Gary, did you ever measure relative humidity inside a van heated to 70 F when outside is +/- 40F?

Under normal conditions I would have guessed much lower than 70%, but don’t really know. I recall that our van gets uncomfortably dry in winter when we heat much above 60 F or so. In our van, inside humidity is kept low due to condensation on uninsulated windows. Again, I haven’t measured but feels much lower than 50%.

Just wondering if 70% RH is representative of actual camping vans.
 
Hi,
I don't think a 2nd vapor barrier is ever a good idea. The van sheet metal is a near perfect barrier, and two vapor barriers is generally considered a no-no because space between the vapor barriers has no way to dry out.

I do think that the polyiso as you describe is likely fine -- there really should be no condensation forming at all with polyiso because there is no way the water vapor can get through the Polyiso to the cold van sheet metal because the Polyiso is impermeable to water vapor, and the temperature on the inside surface of the Polyiso is normally above the dew point, so no condensation there either. That's my 2 cents :)

Gary
Empirical experience:

Three years ago I slapped up R-13 fiberglass insulation on all the walls and ceiling of our 159". I even stuffed it in the cavities below the floor along the sides and replaced the triangular access plates.

I did this temporarily because we got stuck in Colorado during the winter for a medical emergency for the winter.
Loosely covered all surfaces with reflectix.

Just pulled all of the insulation and reflectix down and I can report there is absolutely no mold or evidence of there ever being condensation.

We do not cook, shower or introduce any water vapor, other than ventilation, natural humidity into the space. At 20F and below we did run a buddy heater for hours at a time. As is natural, we did perspire.

I would estimate that 30% of our ambient and interior humidity levels have ranged over 60%

Just saying, I have always thought this sheeps wool and thinsulate bandwagon was a marketing ploy.

I am replacing all of the rolled insulation with polyiso because we felt we need an average of R-15 to accommodate electric heat sources.

Just our experience over several years. Your mileage may vary.
 
Gary, did you ever measure relative humidity inside a van heated to 70 F when outside is +/- 40F?

Under normal conditions I would have guessed much lower than 70%, but don’t really know. I recall that our van gets uncomfortably dry in winter when we heat much above 60 F or so. In our van, inside humidity is kept low due to condensation on uninsulated windows. Again, I haven’t measured but feels much lower than 50%.

Just wondering if 70% RH is representative of actual camping vans.
Hi Chance

I think the RH inside of the van will depend a lot on how you use it.

In my house I have the RH set below 50%. Above that the exhaust fan turns on.

If the air in a van feels damp, it is best to warm up the air & exhaust it, bring in colder air from outside (easy to do in winter) & exhaust that. This helps get the RH lower.

I have not measured my van’s RH, but maybe not a bad thing to do.

For those reading & don’t know; Relative Humidity is the amount of water vapor present in air expressed as a percentage of the amount needed for saturation at the same temperature.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Gary, did you ever measure relative humidity inside a van heated to 70 F when outside is +/- 40F?

Under normal conditions I would have guessed much lower than 70%, but don’t really know. I recall that our van gets uncomfortably dry in winter when we heat much above 60 F or so. In our van, inside humidity is kept low due to condensation on uninsulated windows. Again, I haven’t measured but feels much lower than 50%.

Just wondering if 70% RH is representative of actual camping vans.
Hi Chance,
I think that's a good question -- not sure yet.

I actually did the trial run at 80% RH and that seemed too wet inside.

I based the 70% roughly on the idea that there are lots of water sources that together likely add up to a couple thousand grams+ of water over the night and that it only takes about 240 grams of water to get the van RH up to 70% (with no ventilation). Maybe ventilation is more effective that I'm thinking and that the RH does not normally get as high as 70%.

But, even with lower RH, as the outside temp drops, the difference between outside temperature and dew point would still be large. For example, 70% RH and 70F inside temp gives a dew point of 60F, and a difference of 60F - 45F = 15F between dew point and outside. If the inside RH is lowered to 60% with 70F inside temp, then dew point drops to 55F, so if you lower the outside temp to 40F, you get the same 15F difference between dew point and outside temp. So, it just takes a bit colder outside temp to get the same conditions?

We are planning a near term trip in the van, and I'm going to log the inside RH for the whole trip to see what it actually does. I have to say that we are not the best ventilators, but I'll do at least a couple nights with more ventilation.

Gary
 
Empirical experience:

Three years ago I slapped up R-13 fiberglass insulation on all the walls and ceiling of our 159". I even stuffed it in the cavities below the floor along the sides and replaced the triangular access plates.

I did this temporarily because we got stuck in Colorado during the winter for a medical emergency for the winter.
Loosely covered all surfaces with reflectix.

Just pulled all of the insulation and reflectix down and I can report there is absolutely no mold or evidence of there ever being condensation.

We do not cook, shower or introduce any water vapor, other than ventilation, natural humidity into the space. At 20F and below we did run a buddy heater for hours at a time. As is natural, we did perspire.

I would estimate that 30% of our ambient and interior humidity levels have ranged over 60%

Just saying, I have always thought this sheeps wool and thinsulate bandwagon was a marketing ploy.

I am replacing all of the rolled insulation with polyiso because we felt we need an average of R-15 to accommodate electric heat sources.

Just our experience over several years. Your mileage may vary.
Thanks @el Jefe !!

It is good to hear you had no mould after years of using fiberglass batts.

No moisture evidence either 👍
 
Hi Chance,
I think that's a good question -- not sure yet.

I actually did the trial run at 80% RH and that seemed too wet inside.

I based the 70% roughly on the idea that there are lots of water sources that together likely add up to a couple thousand grams+ of water over the night and that it only takes about 240 grams of water to get the van RH up to 70% (with no ventilation). Maybe ventilation is more effective that I'm thinking and that the RH does not normally get as high as 70%.

But, even with lower RH, as the outside temp drops, the difference between outside temperature and dew point would still be large. For example, 70% RH and 70F inside temp gives a dew point of 60F, and a difference of 60F - 45F = 15F between dew point and outside. If the inside RH is lowered to 60% with 70F inside temp, then dew point drops to 55F, so if you lower the outside temp to 40F, you get the same 15F difference between dew point and outside temp. So, it just takes a bit colder outside temp to get the same conditions?

We are planning a near term trip in the van, and I'm going to log the inside RH for the whole trip to see what it actually does. I have to say that we are not the best ventilators, but I'll do at least a couple nights with more ventilation.

Gary
Gary, my thought is that RH is limited in large part because cold glass surfaces like windshield will condense (remove) moisture from inside air. Ventilation will help also, but at least in our window van the amount of moisture/water removed by all the glass area keeps inside uncomfortably dry. During our last trip to Yellowstone, temperatures dropped to 20F and I wished the air wasn’t so dry. And all glass was wet. It’s one reason I would install dual pane windows and cover windshield and front windows as best as possible on outside. I haven’t measured RH but expect an improvement independent of ventilation.

Look forward to your data if you get a chance to measure it.
 
It is curious to me how the opinion on best insulation varies from forum to forum -- the Transit forum seems to favor Thinsulate (and maybe wool more lately), with hardly any talk about Polyiso. But, here on the PM forum Polyiso seems to be favored with some use of the others.
I have a guess—polyiso does not conform to curved surfaces. Transit and Sprinter surfaces are more curved than PM. That said, I’m beginning to see more use of polyiso in Transits.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Thank you @GaryBIS for this, very informative. It would be interesting to see how closed cell foam such as Armacell XG 1" would behave in your laboratory.
Hi,
That looks like a promising material.
I'd be glad to test it if someone can provide a 14 inch by 47 inch (or larger) sample.

Gary
 
Hi,
That looks like a promising material.
I'd be glad to test it if someone can provide a 14 inch by 47 inch (or larger) sample.

Gary
I'd be happy to source some but shipping from Europe would be a bit expensive. Armaflex/Kaiflex etc, closed foam cell insulation brands are very popular in Europe so it would be very interesting to see how they compare to the ones you've tested.
 
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