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Test of fairings on solar panels to reduce drag

20K views 93 replies 25 participants last post by  GaryBIS  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi,
I've deleted this post -- I don't think the data was reliable enough to use.

On giving Steve's half a PVC pipe nose a try, I discovered some sensitivities to small changes in the test setup that I don't like at all. I don't want to mislead anyone with bad data.

I'll keep trying to get a better setup -- maybe more like a wind tunnel, but its going to take a while.

Gary

edit 8/14/21: the new version of this post done with a windtunnel starts down page 2 a ways
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Hi,
I've deleted this post -- I don't think the data was reliable enough to use.

On giving Steve's half a PVC pipe nose a try, I discovered some sensitivities to small changes in the test setup that I don't like at all. I don't want to mislead anyone with bad data.

I'll keep trying to get a better setup -- maybe more like a wind tunnel, but its going to take a while.

Thanks for all the suggestions and will try to incorporate them in the next go round.

Gary
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Thanks for your diligence, Gary.

Might I add another suggestion: If I recall, you used a 2-inch thick piece of foam as the "solar panel". My own panels, which are on the thicker end of the spectrum as I think they are for industrial or home use, aren't 2-inches thick. I can't remember how thick they are exactly and I've hurt my back and so I'm not wishing to climb up there at the moment to measure. But perhaps consider a thinner material just for more "real-world" applicability. Just a thought.
Right -- mine is 1 3/4 inch thick, and I thought about trying to take 1/4 inch off, but decided it was probably not worth the effort. Should have mentioned that.

Thanks -- Gary
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Wonderful work again, Gary!

Could a triangular piece of wood up front be better than the elliptical piece used or 1/2 round that some had suggested? I'm thinking of ease of fabrication (2 passes through a table saw). And if pointy enough, maybe it could be better aerodynamically? Maybe clone the 14 degree piece at the back for use at the front? Just a thought.
Hi,
I'm thinking the triangular section may be worse due to the sharp transistion from the back of the triangle surface to the PV panel. But, certainly worth a try if I can get a good setup.

Gary
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Hi Gary,

Interesting for sure. However, I believe that the real-world results will not be quite as good. I think you have not accounted for the roof being under the PV panel. I think this will have a big effect on how airflow goes around the PV panel. I suspect there will be much less airflow going under the panel and much more airflow going above the panel. Also, wouldn't the overall length of the panel have a big effect, not to mention cross-supports and where the PV panel is positioned on the roof (distance from the windshield)?

Not to dismiss your study, but there are more factors to consider.

Best,
Hi,
Not sure - it would be nice to have a test method that covered this.

But, its not clear to me that the close proximity of the roof would reduce drag.

Normally in aero, if you test object 1 and object 2 separately, and then you bring them in close proximity, the total drag is larger than the sum of the two separate objects. Its called interference drag.

Why would less airflow go under panel? What is the Physics that would cause this? Is it because the path under the panel has more resistance to airflow (ie more drag)? As Baxsie says it would be nice to test with a surface under the simulated PV panel with various separations.

Do you have a reference?

A longer panel than my shorty panel would increase skin friction drag, but for most objects, skin friction drag is not a major contributor.

Clearly, the first order of business is to get a test setup that works :)

Gary
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
I decided to drop my solar panels down 1 ½" by using half height Unistrut. It worked out well and is 100% cleaner looking. I also put a flair on the front of the panels (actually 1" pvc electrical conduit cut in half. It’s just about exactly the same with as the solar panel frame. No test results mileage wise yet but I was as interested in the visual perception as much as increasing mpg

I had everything set to mount up on the roof in advance and a bribe of a free Chinese lunch to RD was all it took to get it up there. In the end we only spent 40 minutes on it so he got cheated out of his free lunch but I did get a donut out of him when he showed up!
Very nice!
So easy to add the PVC and has to be worth something on drag.

I'm about 60% into building a wind tunnel in my shop -- always wanted to do one :)

Gary
 
Discussion starter · #28 · (Edited)
Hi,
I've had another go at measuring the drag reduction one might get by adding fairings to roof mounted PV panels.

I went off the deep end a bit and built an actual wind tunnel - something I've always wanted to do :)

Image


A detailed description of the tunnel and how it works and some validation data are here...
Any suggestions on how to improve it are most welcome.

In a nutshell, the test section where the model goes is 13.5 by 13.5 inches. I would like it to have been a bit bigger,but the the length of the tunnel and the blower required push air through it get prohibitive pretty fast, and the 13.5 is enough to test parts of PV panels for drag. The tunnel has generally turned out well, with very consistent velocities and low turbulence in the test section. There are two not so great issues that are explained at the end of this post, and I'd like any advise anyone has on these two issues.

The model of the PV panel is 11 inches wide by 1.75 inches thick by 12 inches along the flow direction. So, the models are full scale in thickness, but smaller in area than the actual PV panel.

Image


The test section with the PV panel model with no fairings "flying" in it.

The front of the model is a just a flat face (like a PV panel), but can have an elliptical fairing added to it, or a half pipe fairing applied to it.

Image

The PV panel model with the elliptical nose fairing attached.

The bottom of the panel is an open box (like a real PV panel), but a smooth bottom can be applied - this bottom replaces a spacer and adds no thickness.

The trailing edge of the test panel can have a 15 degree boat tail fairing added to it.

Image

The picture above shows the test section with the transparet side and top - the top is easily removable to allow changing or replacing the model. The model is supported on a rod which extends through the floor of the test section. The rod is supported on a low friction pivot a bit below the floor, and the rod continues downward for an equal distance with the force being measured by a digital fish scale attached to the end of the rod. Care is taken on each reading to make sure the model balanced fore and aft and that the rod is dead vertical (model horizontal). The air velocity is measured at start and end of each run using a pitot tube and manometer.

I also attached yarn tufts to parts of the models to try to get an idea of how smooth (or not smooth) the flow was with and without the fairings. I'll put these up on Youtube, but the results a just what you would expect -- the no fairings version shows lots of separated flow from the panel nose tail. With either the elliptical nose or half pipe nose, the separation is reduced to the point where it can't be seen in the yarn tuft movement.

Here are some sample drag force measurement runs

NoseBottomTailFdrag (lb)Fdrag 70-70 (lb)MPG change (%)Life GalsLife $'s
nonenonenone
0.83​
21.1​
-11.1%​
1235​
$4,322​
ellipticalnonenone
0.38​
9.8​
-5.2%​
573​
$2,007​
half pipenonenone
0.53​
13.5​
-7.1%​
790​
$2,765​
noneyesnone
0.55​
14​
-7.4%​
819​
$2,867​
ellipticalyes15 deg
0.23​
5.9​
-3.1%​
345​
$1,208​
ellipticalnone15 deg
0.36​
9.16​
-4.8%​
536​
$1,876​

  • First three columns show what kind of fairing was in each position (nose, bottom and tail)
  • Fdrag is the force measured on the model in the windtunnel. The windtunnel speed can vary about plus/minus 1 MPH from run to run, and these are all corrected to what the force would be at 35 MPH (a small correction in all cases).
  • Fdrag 70-70 is the model force scaled up from 35 MPH to 70 MPH and the panel width scaled up from 11 inches to 70 inches. This is an estimate of what the forces would be under real world conditions on an actual van. Since the drag goes up with velocity squared, going from 35 to 70 increases drag by a factor of 4.
  • MPG Change (%) is an ATTEMPT to estimate how much your MPG would change from a van with no PV panel on the roof. The methods is explained below.
  • Life Gals is the number of extra gallons you would use over 200K miles for a van that got 18 MPG before adding the PV panel.
  • Life $'s is the cost of the added gallons over the life at an average of $3.50 per gallon.
Important to note here that the MPG and gasoline columns are relative to a van with NO PV panel installed. The saving in MPG and gas is obtained by comparing the numbers on the top line (no fairing and 11% MPG drop) to the line for the fairing you are interested in.

The MPG change is calculated by taking the Fdrag 70-70 number and multiplying it by 5280 ft per mile to get the extra energy per mile needed to push the PV panel through the air for a mile. This is then divided by an ESTIMATED vehicle powerplant efficiency of 20% to get the energy input in added gasoline per mile. This is then divided by the gasoline use at 18 MPG to get the percentage change in MPG. This is obviously very rough - so, take them with a healthy bit of skepticism - maybe someone has a better way to do this?

I guess one rough conclusion is that the savings are so large that even if the estimates are way to high, its still worthwhile doing the fairing(s).

If the 21 lbs of force on a 70 inch wide, 1.75 inch thick at 70 MPH seems unreasonably high to you, envision taping an 11 inch square piece of plywood (same frontal area as PV panel) to your hand and then sticking your arm out the window at 70 MPH with the flat face of the plywood facing into the flow -- 21 lbs does not seem so unreasonable :)

If's, And's and But's

A couple of caveats on the windtunnel.
I had hoped to get the tunnel velocity up to 60 MPH to get more realistic highway speeds, but my blower setup can only manage about 40 MPH max. If anyone has any ideas for moving more air through the tunnel at a reasonable price, I'm all ears.

A puzzling thing is that when I try to validate that the wind tunnel is producing good drag numbers by back calculating the drag coefficient for shapes with a known drag coefficient, the ones I calculate are substantially higher than the handbook values. If anyone has any ideas on this, please let me know.

The tunnel tests full scale models of the PV panels in a free airstream, while the panels mounted on the van roof are seeing an airstream that is influenced by the van itself. Its not clear to me what effect this might have on the results. On the one hand, the air has to accelerate to makes its way up and over the van (like the flow over the top of a wing). On the other hand, the presence of the van roof surface below the panel may have a drag reducing effect.
In any case, the free stream drag reductions that the fairings accomplish are at least a clue as to what might be achieved in the real world case, and the savings are so large that even if the real world numbers are substantially lower, the benefits would still be large.
Thinking about a test on the van with a simple, full scale, 70 inch wide PV panel model mounted up close to the front of the van and 3 or 4 inches above the roof line. The results of this should be large enough to measure on a careful A, B, A actual MPG test.

Any ideas, suggestions, comments are most welcome.

Gary
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
As I said in the other thread where you mentioned this: You're amazing, as always, @GaryBIS!

I'm inspired to immediately create an elliptical fairing for the leading edge of my solar panels As I also mentioned in the other thread, my gas mileage isn't good (14.9 mpg) and part of this is likely my large solar array held aloft 2 inches above the roof; held aloft intentionally to create airflow under them for keeping the panels cooler and thus more efficient as well as to keep my roof cooler under the panels.

But after some long trips with such not-so-great gas mileage, I am now looking to improve mpg.

Your findings with simple to make fairings are very encouraging.

A few thoughts:
  1. I'm surprised the boattail at the trailing edge didn't do more.
  2. In real life, I am thinking solar panels are even draggier than your model, depending on how they are oriented. Mine, in particular, span nearly the entire width of my van. Your less wide section model could appear "more streamlined" in comparison.
  3. I mentioned in the other thread about how it may not be fully advisable to seal off (smoothen) the bottom of the solar panel because of how solar panels are affected by heat. But I do see the large benefit you've found by doing this. I wonder if there is a compromise. E.g. seal off just the first few inches of the bottom (so airflow is not so abruptly altered)? Or maybe seal off the entire bottom but cut out small strips front-to-back for vents in order to have at least some airflow or way for hot air to get out. Crazy thought: seal off the bottom entirely and install a 12V intake fan and an exhaust grate such that when the panel is creating electricity, siphon off a tiny bit to run the fan to keep the underside cool (many solar charge controllers have a "Load" output that is never used but which could be used for this; I'm assuming they aren't connected to the battery bank and thus don't draw power from them when the panel isn't creating electricity).
  4. Your puzzling thing: maybe there is turbulence still in your windtunnel section? Maybe in giant windtunnels the airflow smoothens out because they have the real estate and thus length to make the windtunnel section really long.
Once again, thanks for your efforts, Gary. Very illuminating.

Edit: left out a "not"
Hi,

I think your solar setup with the wide panels facing the flow and the front edge of the panel being far forward is a really excellent candidate for at least a nose fairing. I think you would see a noticeable gain.
I think the gain would likely be enough to pick up on an A B A style MPG test -- it would be great if you could that kind of before and after test -- maybe use the procedure I used in this roof rack test...
It was looking at your solar setup that made me choose the 70 inch width of PV panel to scale up my model tests :)

I too have been surprised that the boat tail fairings have not been more effective. Don't really have an explanation.

I do think some form of partially covering the bottom of the PV panel would be worth looking at. It seems like the ventilation is more of an issue when stopped and parked in the sun, and its harder to provide ventilation then. When driving, it seems like fairly minimal ventilation in a cover for the bottom of the PV panel would be enough?
But, the easy big gain is probably some kind of nose fairing.

I do plan to try to add smoke trail flow vizulization to the the tunnel when time allows. My understanding is that the smoke trails require a very low turbulence tunnel to work well and show distinct trails, so that will be a test of how turbulence free my tunnel is.

Gary
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
I wonder what mileage might be gained by smoothing the bottom of the van?
hi,
There is a good book on car aerodynamic "Modifying the Aerodynamics of your Road Car", Edgar
He has a few pages on under body smoothing, and seems to think there is a lot to be gained
He has this table

77103


The underbody cover is the largest drag reduction in the table.
This is for sedans, but I can't help thinking the PM would benefit quite a bit from a good underbody pan. But, not a small job -- the one nice thing is that since its not visible, it does not have look pretty.

Maybe someone has an idea how this could actually be done?

Gary
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Gary, I wouldn’t spend too much effort with the smoke, it is hard to get good results. I too built a wind tunnel, amazingly similar to yours, maybe a bit larger our test chamber was 16” square. We were developing a marine ultrasonic anemometer and were concerned with turbulence at different angles of heel. Our testing was at lower speeds mostly 20-30 mph. We tried several different smoke methods and could never come up with useful data.

Your setup and methods appear valid to me. I appreciate your efforts and reports. Keep up the great work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi,
Thanks for the feedback!

If you have time to look at this guys approach to smoke, I'd like to hear what you think of it
He starts describing the smoke system at minute 8.

Also, wondering what you guys used for the fan/blower in your tunnel.

Thanks Gary
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
@GaryBIS

I wonder if the rear tail should be a long ellipse instead of an angular tail?

On your web site I added an idea for increasing the wind speed. Basically adding a second stage of blowers.
Hi Harry,
I was just thinking the same thing last night.
I think the rapid transition from the flat panel to the 15 deg slope is probably to abrupt.

If time allows, I'll try something that starts out as an ellipse and then transitions into a straight 15 deg taper to a point.

Thanks - Gary
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
I may have missed this in the thread but does Gary's awesome wind tunnel testing take in to account how the front of our vans directs the air before it hits the panels? It could also change depending on how close the panels are mounted to the front of the van...

My 700 watts worth of solar mounted on the wee 118WB are as low as possible using 13/16" tall stainless unistrut rails with Hein's roof mounts and an 8020 1/4 round extrusion on the front. This set up is silent at speeds up to 85mph (haven't gone faster post panel installation) but I haven't tracked mileage changes. Low roof vans also have a different profile which could deflect more or less air around the panels, but again, I have no way of knowing which shape kicks up the air better for solar panel installations.
View attachment 77128
Hi,
I'm sure that how the air flows over the van/roof contours does affect the PV panel drag, and the windtunnel does not take this into account - it just gives and idea how much drag the PV panels would create in the free stream.
I do think this is pretty good for comparing no fairing to the various fairing shapes, and gives a rough idea what the drag is likely to be in the real world case.

The air flowing over the top of the van (and around the sides) is likely to be moving faster than the van speed as the air has to accelerate up over the roof - like air flowing over the wing. The book I referenced a couple posts up clearly shows this faster moving air over the roof contours. So, in that respect, the tunnel might under predict the real world drag numbers. But, other things are happening, like the boundary layer getting thicker etc. - so, hard to say what the net effect is.

I do think that mounting the panels low and as far back as possible is likely to produce less drag. My PV panel is mounted very low and well back. On this other test of roof rack and PV panel MPG effect, the roof rack, which was pretty wide and mounted well forward had a very large MPG penalty (2.5 MPG at 65 MPH), while the MPG penalty for my PV panel was barely detectable.

My own opinion is that trying to deflect air over the top of the PV panels is probably a bad idea. Anything that deflects the air upward is effectively adding frontal area, and frontal drag is directly proportional to frontal area. Car and van designers spend lots of time trying to keep the flow attached to the van as far back as they possibly can, and then (hopefully) try for a clean separation right at the back.
I think you are better off to reduce the drag coefficient of the PV panels with fairings that don't add any frontal area. I could be wrong :)

When we get back from our planned trip up to the Yukon (which I hope goes through), I'll probably do some more testing on the van itself.

Gary
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
This is an incredible situation to look at from an orbiting satellite perspective/scale:
Man on internet loves van
Man builds WIND TUNNEL to test van components.

Keep up the good work Gary!
Or, man always wanted to build a wind tunnel and finally found an excuse :)

Gary
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Interesting data Gary, and thanks for your work. In a way it supports my gut feeling that solar doesn’t make enough sense for the way we have traveled in the past. We will likely use next van differently, but even then I’m not sure how to apply the data in making an informed decision.

If installing solar anyway, then it makes a lot of sense to reduce drag within reason. However, depending on travel and camping habits, it makes me question whether the extra drag and adverse affect on fuel economy is worth it compared to alternate charging methods.

For example, if using $1,800 over 200,000 miles, that’s only $9 per 1,000 miles, but when driving van as a second car, I would incur fuel cost penalty without gaining useful charge benefit. And if I drive 1,000 miles over two days, would I spend more on gas to charge same amount with alternator?

I’m curious on your take on other test (different thread) where solar had nearly insignificant affect on fuel economy. Do you think solar panels actually contribute this much drag when installed on a typical van? Seems like a lot.

I’ll eventually estimate cost/benefit versus different types of trips we routinely take, but in the end I think it will come down to subjectivity on whether solar makes van more enjoyable or not, rather than on solar’s costs.
Hi Chance,
On the previous test on the van, I did a pretty large rack of the kind a lot of people mount PV on, and it had a big MPG hit of 2.5 MPG. And, also did my single PV panel, which is about 39 inches wide, and is mounted well back on the van, as low as I could possibly get it, and in the wake of the MaxFan, and the hit for it was only about 0.1 MPG. Both of these numbers subject to some error of course. So, I'm tempted to say that for panels mounted more forward and up into the airstream, the two tests agree pretty well - both predict a big hit, but for the narrower panel mounted further back and down low the hit is not nearly as large. I don't think I have enough good data to really support this conclusion well, but if I had to guess now, that's what I'd say.
I do plan to do some more testing on the van later in the year and will try to see if I can better actual data on how much difference moving the panel aft and down really makes.

One thing in arriving at the MPG and gasoline saving numbers that you likely know more about than I do. I calculated the extra energy needed to drive the van a mile with the 70 inch wide PV panel at 70 MPH, and then converted that to gasoline energy using 20% engine/powertrain efficiency -- seem reasonable?

Doing the charging without solar using the alternator also implies some extra gasoline use - must be a way to estimate that?

Where I am right now, if I were doing it all again, I'd probably go with something like a 100 watt flexible solar panel bonded to the roof toward the back. MPG hit for this should be near zero. The way we use the van, alternator charging would probably work pretty well as we drive almost every day, but its really nice to have some solar for keeping the batteries topped up - especially between trips in the driveway.


Gary
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
Just found this in another thread;

View attachment 77130

I could not find the Super Cub profile, but here is one from a J3;



It seems “fatter” than the lift struts on the Super Cub
If you pass the airport and notice a J3 with its wings drooping down, you'll know I've been there :)

I tried to find out if anyone has quoted a measured speed increase for round tube vs elliptical, but could not find anything. Knowing the cruise speed or max speed increase would allow guessing how much the whole airplane Cd changed. I know Zenith offers their 701 with both round tube and "streamlined" struts.

It would have to make a worthwhile difference on a big van roof rack.

Gary
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
Hi,

A question one could ask is: Is it more efficient in terms of gasoline used and carbon emitted to charge house batteries with solar or with the van alternator?

Both methods use gasoline and generate CO2 emission, but which is best?

Here is a ROUGH cut at a calculation -- feel free to correct it!

I've done this assuming that the van is driven an average of 300 miles per day when on trips, and that the battery on average needs 100 amp-hrs of charging from the overnight stay.

Solar:
From the post above, a wide PV panel with no fairing burns 1235 extra gallons over a 200K mile life.
So, this works out to 1.9 extra gallons for 300 miles of driving on a typical day.
If the solar panel uses the elliptical nose fairing, then the extra gas is 0.87 gal per day.

Alternator:
The 100 amp-hrs is 1200 watt-hours to the battery.
Assuming the alternator is 80% efficient and the engine is 20% efficient, then getting 1200 watt-hours to the battery requires (1200) /(0.2 * 0.8) = 7500 watt-hrs worth of gasoline, which is equivalent to 0.22 gallon.

So, it looks like (for this set of assumptions), the alternator is more efficient in terms of gasoline use and carbon emissions.

Feel free to say this is BS, and here is why!

Its possible that a really carefully done (drag wise) solar install might get down to the same (or lower) level as the alternator. using the flexible glued on panels definitely would. If you believe the test I did earlier on my van with its 300 watt PV panel mounted well aft, narrow side forward, very low on the roof, and in the wake of the MaxFan, then it only costs 0.1 MPG and for 300 miles, this is only about 0.1 gallons - so less than alternator charging (this makes me feel much better :)

Of course, solar has other advantages - especially if you stay in one place for multiple days.

Thoughts?

Gary
 
Discussion starter · #72 ·
Hi,
If you want to look at airplanes for how to do low drag, its probably better to look at the body rather than the wings. Wings are designed to make lift without a lot of drag - bodies are made just to have low drag.
What you see on airplane bodies is normally a fairly blunt rounded leading edge followed by a long constant section portion, followed by a back end that is tapered down to nearly a point at about about 15 degrees (a shallow taper). The back end is tapered at a low angle to keep the flow attached to the body so that you don't get a lot of pressure drag that would result if the air separated from the body.

The reason that noses can be fairly blunt without causing separation and drag while the back end has to be tapered at a much shallower angle to prevent separation has to do with what is happening in the boundary layer.
The boundary layer is the area next to the skin that is traveling at a lower velocity than the free stream - the air right next to the skin is actually traveling at zero velocity. The velocity in the boundary layer increases as you go out from the skin surface until it reaches the free stream velocity.

Separation (and high drag) occurs when the boundary layer separates from the skin. The yarn tufts you see in wind tunnel pictures are showing the direction of flow in the boundary layer. In separated areas, the tufts will show the flow is erratic and often toward the nose (reversed).
Its easy to keep the boundary layer attached on the blunt nose contours because the pressure gradient in the nose area is in the flow direction (static pressure high at the nose and lowering as the air accelerates to the point of max area). So, the pressure gradient in the boundary layer is actually helping the flow. On the tail, the opposite is happening - the flow velocity along the skin is decreasing which causes the static pressure to increase, so the pressure gradient is trying to decelerate the boundary layer air, which if it gets low enough causes separation and high pressure drag. Tapering the tail at a low angle keeps the boundary layer attached and avoids separation. For most situations, a closure angle of about 15 degs will keep the flow attached - but, this can result in a really long vehicle.

In cars, the shape often is fairly blunt at the nose, then after it reaches max height, there is a shallow taper down angle to prevent separation, and then when the shallow angle can't go on any longer because you are at the end of the car, the tail is cut off vertically for a clean separation. You still get quite a bit of pressure drag in the separated area, but it has proven to be the lowest drag solution.

Gary
 
Discussion starter · #84 ·
Hi,
Elliptical nose fairings for my PV panel

77573

Whittled out of a 4 by 4 with table saw, planner and belt sander. About 2 hours.

Held in place with two screws that go into PV panel frame and some silicone caulk on the back.


Gary