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Super High Roof, no factory roof mounting bolts, DIY rack

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2.4K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  HarryN  
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My main concern with going the individual panel and self taping screw route is vibration and fatigue in the sheet metal over time but to a larger degree, ability to change panels/layout if needed down the road. Unfortunately the van roof lacks flat areas suitable for those flat types of mounts that spread the load over a patch (like you’d find on a transit). So I was thinking the channel route would have been better to put that load along the length.

I echo the concern about the sheet metal not holding up. Maybe like somebody else suggested, using a backing plate, would be better. Only alternative would be finding some way to secure mounting points through the roof to the pillars. I have a buddy that welds so that might be an option to explore.


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I plan on using two relatively large solar panels along the bulk of the space and 4 small ones next to the vents. My main concern would be the height and wind shear causing vibration transferring motion and wearing stuff down/causing leaks or god forbid something coming detached and causing damage or injury to someone. Beyond that, the van is already very tall, basically have to drive it around eyeballing overhanging foliage on the passenger side like some hungry tree trimmer wanting to solicit their services. I also wonder about how much air is being directed up when the van is at speed and how much clearance under the panels would effect the strain of mounting locations.

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I contacted one company that offered a roof rack with a front fairing but they did not have a solution for the SHR.
Hi,
The link below is a 10 year report on my large solar panel, which is held on with adhesive with a single stainless self tapper as a sort of backup because I did bot quite have the courage to rely fully on the adhesive. This is 10 years and 140K miles with several thousand miles over bumpy back roads. You can look at the photos and judge for yourself how well its held up.
There is also a strength test on the 10 year old L brackets and adhesive - it appears that adhesive alone has a very large strength margin.
Others have use VHB tape and this also works well.
The adhesive approach should have good fatigue resistance and the 10 years of hard use would seem to support this.
While it would be a chore, it would probably be possible to move panels by carefully cutting through the adhesive.


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On the fairing, I'd avoid one if you can. If its the type of fairing that is basically a tilted slab installed full width a bit behind the windshield, it will result in separated airflow starting at the fairing and extending for the full length of the roof as shown on this tuft test...
With a significant MPG penelty...

Gary