It is very simple. The basic outlines are square or rectangular, only the corners need to be rounded. I used half inch ply because it is a work van. I used self tapping screws. four years later everything is still solid

 

Hi,
This is how I did the paneling on mine: https://www.buildagreenrv.com/our-conversion/our-conversion-paneling/


This leaves 74 inches across at bed level in the back. If you need more, you could probably get another inch on each side by dishing the paneling outward in the bed area, and still have a bit of room for insulation.

Gary

 

I wouldLIKe to point out that drywall screws are very hard and brittle, they break very easily.

 

Some add wood strips, some just attach straight to the ribs. I suggest using plus nuts to attach to the ribs. They are less likely to spin and are very strong. You don't need a special tool to attach and for the PM all of mine are attached with 10 complete turns. I use a battery power impact wrench and it is a tool you need to get if you don't already have one. Search "plus nuts" on the forum to get the details.

 

Good build to see and at the 11 minute mark, you can see where the walls have been recessed in the bed area to maximize width. This is something I will be doing as well.

 

I recessed the wall panels at the head/foot of my elevated double bed so I could maximize my cross length.

Picture of the recessed panel set against the wall rib (I used 1/8” foam to serve as a thermal barrier). The insulation at the head/foot of the bed consists of a 1/2” air gap, reflectix, 1/2” foam board, and the 5mm wood panel.

The finished product showing the recessed wall panels near the bed.

More info and pictures are available on my build site at www.vancave.wordpress.com... the recessed panels are on my VanCave2 build.

 

I used no framing except in the ceiling. See my build blog for details.

 

I used furring strips, it seemed like the best way to hang tongue and groove wall paneling. I didn't make any recesses but you could still frame them in if you decide to use furring strips. I used self-tapping screws to attach the strips to the van and a pocket hole jig to add horizontal pieces where needed.

 

Exactly what I needed. Thanks!

 

I need to start putting up my walls soon and still trying to figure out the best method. I pretty much know what I am doing for the garage walls and sleeping area. I already cut out 5mm plywood to fit around the wheel wells and separate pieces that will have foam glued to them and fabric wrapped around them that will be the walls for the sleep area. I am thinking of using some .5-.75 inch think furring strips to extend past that odd support beam that sticks out and I will use 5mm for the walls for the kitchen and living area. I should have the furring installed some time this week because I need to work on my wetroom.

 

It is hard to figure out the best methods.

Here is an example of what I did. I do not have any “furring” strips. Sometimes it is difficult to place in order the tasks. For my ceiling, walls, & floor I did things in this order;

1) cut & installed all items into ceiling, walls & doors, & floor (roof fan, shore power, windows, etc)
2) design attachment method (I decided on rivnuts & bolts & nuts). Installed rivnuts
3) fabricate ceiling, wall panels
4) insulate ceiling & walls
5) install ceiling & wall panels
6) fab, install, floor insulation & floor panels (thru bolt by drilling up thru metal van floor thru insulation & plywood floor & bolt down)

For behind panel electrical lines, I installed between tasks 3 & 4 above.

I did not want to use wood furring & I attached my panels directly onto the metal van structure mostly with rivnuts. It is “easier” to use wood furring & wood screws as you do not have to locate rivnuts on a 4x8 sheet of panel (or smaller panels).

There are pros & cons to all methods/designs

 

i attached my luan wall panels directly to the metal with 1/2” self-tapping stainless screws. Five years later, they haven’t budged.