[GaryBIS]

Hi,

I have a combination of Reflectix shades on all the main cabin windows (5 in all) plus a similar commercial product from EuroCamper on the cab windows as shown here: http://www.buildagreenrv.com/our-conversion/promaster-camper-van-conversion-curtains-for-windows/

I did a heat loss test on the Reflectix shades, and they increase the R value of the windows from about R1 to about R3 -- cutting the window heat loss to 1/3rd of uninsulated windows.
Test here: http://www.buildagreenrv.com/our-co...sion/promaster-camper-van-conversion-curtains-for-windows/curtain-thermal-test/

I'm not the biggest fan of Reflectix, but it does seem to do a good job in this application.

By my calcs, with 32F outside and 70F inside, the heat loss with no window insulation is about 3600 BTU/hr and with all windows insulated as described above, it drops to about 2400 BTU/hr.
So, no insulation on windows for my van increases total heat loss by about 1.5 compared to Reflectix shades on all windows. Pretty impressive.

This is with the walls ceiling and floor of van all insulated with either 1 inch of polyiso or 1 inch of spray urethane.

I don't like looking at the shiny Reflectix at night, but it does really help a lot with heat loss.

I think Josh's idea of Reflectix shades covered with something that looks nicer would be a good way to go.

Gary

 

[trhoppe]

I used rubber P clamps along with a piece of conduit to make a sweet curtain. I had red blackout curtains (which is what is in the pic below) but I converted to using 4 (2, double layer together) gray blackout curtains that are a much nicer fabric. Those make a HUGE HUGE temperature diff between the cab and living area.

 

[Jumpster]

Another idea - though have not done it mind you - is to have a curtain with zippers down both sides that rolls up and ties in a roll at the top for storage. With the zips it would seal very nicely. Buying a cheap comforter to use as the curtain would work pretty well insulation wise; or you can buy various synthetic insulations and fabric and make your own, as much insulation as you want - though at some point it would get to be too fat a roll up at the top. Some sources also have insulation pre-quilted to a face fabric - then you just add another layer of fabric - your choice, can even get reflective stuff if you look hard enough.

 

[yourbestfriend]

For stealth purposes do you think you could get away with just a curtain and no window reflectics? Would you still get condensation on the windows even if the two areas were relatively sealed?

I was thinking a cheap walmart 2x person sleeping bag would be good material to re purpose for this. They might be better rated for retaining heat than say a curtain or comforter. One more reason to take a sowing class. learn how to add buttons, grommets etc

 

[GaryBIS]

Hi,
I'm sure a layer of sleeping bag material would do better than a layer of Reflectix.

Water vapor would still be able to get through the sleeping bag material, so I think you would still get some condensation on the windows.

Gary

 

[rdkeith]

Moving Pads

I got cotton batt filled moving pads from Harbor Freight. You can wiggle the long end into the gap at the end of the cabin head liner....goes up easy, insulates the cab from rear, stays up when driving just fine and comes down in a heart beat. A few weeks ago on the way to FL I was at a truck stop and a guy with a PM asked me where I got the custom fit curtains......

 

[phil]

Also Harbor Freight, two 40x72, on a rod with the tops folded over to cover the gap.

 

[fast5794999]

Insulation between cab and cargo area for winter sleeping

The LEED Green Building people, The NAHB and Refrigerator builders have the answer: Airtight chambering.

If you put a steel bulkhead between the cab and cargo area (with a door) and insulate the heck out of the bulkhead with 1" Polysio and then seal the cargo area leaks with foil tape you can be very warm. The problem then becomes suffocation and sucking in out-gassing fumes. You will need to tune your roof vent to get a proper mix of those considerations. Many people put the Polysio on the cab side of the bulkhead to save cargo area room. Some claim to stay very warm in a nearly airtight cargo area with a 12 volt blanket warmer.

Those who put their bed in the back of the ProMaster sometimes enclose the sleeping area with an EZ-Cool curtain so that they are only keeping the heat in the bed chamber. If you have to get up in the night to go to the bathroom, you will freeze outside the chamber unless you quickly kick on an inside use propane heater for a minute while you pee.

 

[GreatDane]

Just finished up my reflectix window covers/privacy layer. I'd previously cut up some end of season clearance pile $1 car window sun shades. Foil layer both sides but very little insulation between. My van is not converted yet and my dog and I slept in it for 10 nights last month when the overnight lows averaged 24F. I have a thermal black out curtain between the can and cargo. With those two (curtain and cheap-o window covers) it was 26F inside the van. We wer plenty warm. Dog is a mini Husky, body insulated by her dog bed below and a fleece blankie above. I was in fleece in a down bag.

I"ve finished my nice new covers. They are held up with rare earth magnets that are covered in a layer of ripstop so the van paint doesn't get beat up.

So my question is, do I need/would it help to add a layer of quilted fabric (the Eddie Bauer Primaloft throws from Costco cut to fit) over but not connected to the reflectix uping the R value? When we convert the van we will have a heater for fall and winter, But we like sleeping cooler (heat real low).

 

[GaryBIS]

Hi,
The Reflectix has reflective layers inside and outside, and they both help reduce heat loss. The inside layer reflects IR heat back into the van and the outside layer has low emissivity, so that reduces heat radiated out toward the windows. There is so little insulation between the two reflective layers that I think most of the gain from Reflectex is the two reflective layers. If you add a new layer inside Reflectex, and its touching the Reflectex, you will lose the benefit of the inside reflective layer. But, if you can figure out a way to leave a thin layer of air between the added layer and the Reflectex, you will get a gain in R value from the new layer and you won't lose the benefit of the reflective layer. I think that all you need is about a 1/4 inch air layer. Also, your added layer will likely be a lot nicer to look at than the Reflectex.

Gary

 

[GreatDane]

Hi,
The Reflectix has reflective layers inside and outside, and they both help reduce heat loss. The inside layer reflects IR heat back into the van and the outside layer has low emissivity, so that reduces heat radiated out toward the windows. There is so little insulation between the two reflective layers that I think most of the gain from Reflectex is the two reflective layers. If you add a new layer inside Reflectex, and its touching the Reflectex, you will lose the benefit of the inside reflective layer. But, if you can figure out a way to leave a thin layer of air between the added layer and the Reflectex, you will get a gain in R value from the new layer and you won't lose the benefit of the reflective layer. I think that all you need is about a 1/4 inch air layer. Also, your added layer will likely be a lot nicer to look at than the Reflectex.

Gary

Yes, I was thinking since the reflectiex is in the window, I'd hang the "quilt layer" from the metal that sticks further into the van creating an air layer of about 3/8 inch (gueestimate not measured yet). Again the bugger will be the cab windows... Not out too much money if it doesn't work!

 

[RV8R]

Yes a curtain is the easy and effective way to go. I used blackout curtains and had someone cut and sew them to size. I used buttons to snap them into place on the top (plastic facing of the shelf) and along the b pillars. I actually use this in place all winter, keeps the front nice a warm while driving.

See if this Instagram link works for details of what I did.

Hey ShaunB

I like your setup with the fan. We are looking to do something similar - might look into swivel (90 degree twist) fasteners or the button snaps you have. Thanks for the idea ?