You may want to check for damage to the wiring harness that extends out to the rear doors. They have been a problem for a few of us. Especially in colder climates. When my wire harness folded over due to the damaged retractor, the fuses blew for the power locks and the rear defrost. The dealer installed new harnesses under warranty a couple months ago.

 

Pete, you nailed it. I had the fold over issue too but when I first checked it out everything appeared fine. Thanks to your post (and the help of KOV in eliminating the camera/door shut switch from my troubleshooting logic) I revisited the area with more vigor and found the issue. here is the deal- The wires had indeed been cut in half. The plastic tube had cracked but the wires were intact at that point. When one opens the door, the broken section of wire is now pulled deeper into the tube where you can not see it. When you peel the tape off the wires at the point the plastic tube is cracked it all looks good. Another thing that fooled me was the tape which wraps the wires was not cut so unless one peels that back the problem is not apparent. Anyhow, encouraged by your suggestion I dug deeper and had it fixed in minutes. There is enough extra wire in the door to do whatever you need to do to reconnect. A nice tight wrap of electrical tape to reinforce the area will likely last a year or more. I am good to go. Thanks.

 

Do you have a uconnect5 with bu camera? If so does the camera work? The doors won't lock if the camera trigger wire is shorted to ground (camera is on)

 

Good answer KOV, thanks for that. Because my BU camera was operating properly I was able to eliminate that area and go back to the wire harness as Pete suggested a second time and find the problem.

 

Mine is at the dealership for this same issue,
couldn't open the back doors from inside or outside using power lock or key.
Seems a lot of us are running into this issue, poor design and cheap plastic components.
Has a warranty notice been issued by Chrysler Fiat?

 

Glad to help

 

Open passenger rear door. Look about a foot and a half up from the bottom. There will be a black tube attached to the door post that slides in and out of the door. The broken wires are in that tube (if that's the problem)

If you pop the plastic door panel off, you will see the wires coming out of the tube... The break is probably not visible, but somewhere inside the tube. When the dealer fixed mine, he replaced the whole harness.

 

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51122

Here is a picture and more details.

 

Here is a picture and more details.

I made an account just so I can thank anyone who helped with this information!!! Thanks again, and the wires (3 of them) were cut inside the insulation. I resolved the issue in less than 10 minutes. THANK YOU ALL!!!

 

I've had wires break in both door looms. Cheap wire and poor design. If yours hasn't broken yet it will.

 

On my 2014 everything looked perfect, but when I took apart the 'thru hull fitting' that is attached to the truck with two phillips screws I found all the wires cut. I was shocked as there was no evidence of any damage before I took it apart. thanks to this thread I looked a bit further... thanks for posting everyone!

 

When you open the rear door there is a black plastic tube that starts at the hinge side, the wires run thru the tube into the door. Take the rear door panel off (if you have one) and disconnect the wires (take a photos so you know where the belong) then pull the tube and wires out and inspect them for breaks.

 

Thanks So much to this thread! I was ready to order new lock mechanism but fixed it for free! The problem was exactly as described here! I did add in a lenge of wire using solder crimps. I also notched out the hinge peice so the new wire will not be pinched going forward! It works great now and took me about 30 mis to fix/modify.