You can, but it's not fused. Not a problem if the charger has a built in failsafe(?)
I had a 250 amp fuse in the empty slot below your thumb and I hooked up there.
Maybe you can use one of the 70 amp fuses?
There are folks here better versed in 12v electrical than me.

 

You can, but it's not fused. Not a problem if the charger has a built in failsafe(?)

I have a 70 amp fuse before it gets to the B2B charger.

 

I'd say you're good then.
Some suggest having a fuse at the battery too. That way if there is an issue, it blows at the source and no chance of a wire heating up.
Makes sense and nothing wrong with redundancy when it comes to electrical fail-safes.
But I'd wait to hear from someone a bit more knowledgeable in the subject.

 

I can move the 70 amp fuse into the battery box... if you think that’s a safer option.

 

Kinda tight in there.
Are any of the little brown 70 amp fuses on the battery available?

 

I don’t know if they are connected to anything.. I haven’t installed anything. I should probably get the manual to figure out what that stuff is on top. 😬

 

I forgot that I had a pic.
This is where I hooked up my B2B.
If you look at the first 70 amp (brown) fuse to the left, I unhooked the 4 ga wire that goes over to the B pillar behind the pass seat.
If you have that same wire and don't plan to use it (most don't) you can disconnect it and use that fuse.

 

I thought the B Pilar has active Electric connections in there??

 

Having the wire fused at the battery protects the full length of the wire. This would prevent it from shorting after tripping the breaker. Fusing near a device will protect the device from a surge, but, because the length of wire before the fuse is still active, if it were to short to the chassis before the fuse your battery will be a closed loop and could pop. If you double tap it to an oversized fuse, you would have both device protection and a failsafe. In this case, a short from your run would knock out another system though.

 

Thank you for the explanation. I will place the breaker closer to the energy source. I would rather the wire be on its on Incase of a short I don’t what 2 things going out.

 

View attachment 64884
Can I connect the positive wire for the B2B charger to this terminal?

The easier solution is to buy a mega fuse and install it like the one in the photo (post #8) with a couple of bolts. It will be simpler to do than trying to fit the circuit breaker in the battery compartment.

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Buy Blue Sea Systems Fuse MEGA 100-AMP 32V, Blue/sea: Fuses - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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Okay, I don’t see the photo... sounds good thank you

 

I fused at the starter battery terminal with a mega fuse and also a breaker at the B2B end.
Same b2b, Sterling 30amp.

I like having the breaker on the unit end so I can disconnect the b2b for maintenance. And I like having the fuse at the starter batt terminal for peace of mind. Easy install and probably worth it as others have mentioned.

 

I fused at the starter battery terminal with a mega fuse and also a breaker at the B2B end.
Same b2b, Sterling 30amp.

I like having the breaker on the unit end so I can disconnect the b2b for maintenance. And I like having the fuse at the starter batt terminal for peace of mind. Easy install and probably worth it as others have mentioned.

Perfect, thanks for the pictures! I think I have it now. 🙏🏻

 

I know I'm late to the game on this thread, but that red 4 AWG upfitter wire heads under the driver side 'step-board' before getting channeled under the seats to the passenger side B-pillar. I wanted the option of keeping the upfitter plug powered, so I split the cable and installed a 'T' distribution block under the step. From there I added a 4 AWG straight back to my Kisae/Abso DMT-1250 charger. (I'm relying on the 70A upfitter fuse to protect that wire, then I added a 65A lug fuse to the output of the DMT-1250, behind a battery switch).

 

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