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Basically a 30-k service is a oil change,Trans service, brake fluid, power stearing flushing they add a fuel injection service to the tank and spry injection spray in the intake.
Not according to the Maintenance Schedule, at least for my 2017

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it’s very simple. Look in your manual and see what is required. Don’t ask the dealer for a 30,000 mile service. Just ask him to perform the required items. If they suggest anything else, ignore it. This is what dealers do.

Hi, all,

I have a 2020 Promaster 2500 that's due for its 30,000 mile service. I was shocked when our local dealer quoted us $1600 for the service! Well, OK, only $1300, but they failed to add in the brake fluid change, which we do need. But they did recommend transmission fluid change, which isn't recommended until 60K in the manual. There's also a bunch of stuff that just sounds like adding a can of this or that to the gas, but nothing that would justify this estimate.

I've called 2 other dealers (several hours away) that both said basically $300 for brake fluid and $400 for cleaning the fuel lines. Both discouraged changing the transmission fluid this early.

We've had zero issues with our Promaster, but our local service manager gave us a story about doing what's optimal to keep our van running, that Ram only cares about keeping it on the road 3-5 years, bla, bla, bla. I called Ram but the person I talked to just said I need to do what I'm comfortable with. Hmm...I'm not the doctor here!

I'm wondering what your experience has been with your 30K service? How much did you do and did you go to a dealer? I'm thinking about dumping our local dealer completely, but that may involve a long drive over a mountain range. What to do?

Thank you!
 
I did my transmission at 38,000 and just did it again at 77,000. To me 60,000 to long of a time. I put a pan on with a drain plug to make it easier. Dealer wants 400.00 for this transmission fluid service. I did the brake fluid at 2 years at a cost of 145.00. Lots of you tubes show different ways to make it easy. I do my own maintenance so kind of have to laugh at the dealer cost. Look for a private shop. They are out there. Good luck. Travato John
John .., where did you get the oil pan from ?.. TIA !! :)
 
I'm going to be in the same position this guy is in a few years. Hit with this BS because I am not experienced. Not saying this guy is not. That's on me though.

I should just say here's $$2Gs I've been saving cover and fix anything so I can cross country and back. Good for another x amount of miles.
 
Oil change at the most. Worth $40. Look at the cv joints - nothing! Replace air filter $20 for the filter and 15 minutes time (most people say their air filter looks like new at 60 or 70 thousand.
personally, I’d just keep driving down the road!🤭
 
John .., where did you get the oil pan from ?.. TIA !! :)
I’m not John, but I also had the OEM transmission oil pan replaced with the Dorman. Here’s the link:

Dorman 265-833 Transmission Oil Pan Compatible with Select Chrysler / Dodge / Ram Models https://a.co/d/0GPXQXs
 
I’m not John, but I also had the OEM transmission oil pan replaced with the Dorman. Here’s the link:

Dorman 265-833 Transmission Oil Pan Compatible with Select Chrysler / Dodge / Ram Models Amazon.com
At 30 k miles, I bought an aftermarket drain plug from Amazon. I think it was about $6 and put it in. I did change the trans filter and fluid (5 quarts at least) because 60k miles is too far to go with this transmission.
it’s up to $ now I see https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QSZDV3X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
@HarryN agreed, CA gas is a worse product and of course more expensive as well.

In terms of additives, for small engines or otherwise - Back years ago when I had fuel issues I did way too much research and stumbled upon PRI products (PRI-G for gas and PRI-D for diesel.) As it turns out, this is the only serious product in terms of gas stabilization, and is used widely in industry. There is a reason why PRI products are mainly sold in 55-gallon drums, and Sta-Bil is sold in tiny bottles to end users only. (PRI now sells PRI-D and PRI-G in smaller bottles, as small as 256-gal treatments!) I have since treated both gas and diesel - years old and in very poor quality - with PRI-G and PRI-D respectively and had zero issues. It is entirely different in composition and effect to anything such as Sta-Bil or its various similar competitors. I would highly recommend it.
It's been my understanding that once Phase Separation occurs(Ethanol separates from the rest of the fuel when sitting too long), that Humpty Dumpty can't be put back together again with any additive. They are however fantastic for preventing it from occurring.
Have you guys seen the results of PS? Literally, pour some in a jar and wait a few months. A distinct line will form with the ethanol at the bottom and it will look and feel exactly like the "non-butter" they pour over the popcorn at the theater. Scary stuff.....
 
Sometimes the gasoline sold in those locations is more stable than what we can purchase in California.

The very high refinement levels required, along with the oxygenates leads to unstable fuel and that is what we have here.

The very tight specs leads to a very small improvement in emissions levels but dramatically increases the cost of equipment to do the job. Typical CA.

____

I have unfortunately fought this issue in my honda lawn mower for a long time. Tried every possible brand of fuel stabilizer, all for naught.

What finally worked ? Exactly what the lawn mower shop told me to do the first time and I ignored. Gasoline sold in a steel can for small engines.

The stuff sold at gas stations - no matter which ones, was not stable in a honda fuel system. Within months they gum up.

You are welcome to purchase whatever you like.
Recently on Vancouver Island we are suffering from Ethanol in High Test from “The Man”;



My Honda power washer started up right away after sitting 2 years IIRC. I don’t believe I even placed it into “storage” properly ( carburetor & running the carb dry ). The old gasonline that was in it was ethanol free, but we can’t buy that on Vancouver Island anymore.

To @margeleept

I guess these days we have to navigate thru the mechanical BS that is presented. The warranty required maintenance schedule is a minimum guideline, however if “Ram” does not note the maintenance n their documentation I would be highly suspicious.

When presented with non Ram listed “maintenance items”, ask for a very detailed written description of the process ,,, & the manufacturers written documentation around such “suspicious” recommendations ,,, in writing ,,, along with any warranty requirements & / or warranty extensions that will be provided.

Promasters ( & other vehicles ), have issues right outta the gate, that are kinda kicked down the road while under warranty ( the dealer / manufacturer systems out there ). Seemingly, some dealers attempt to scare owners into maintenance that isn’t required or the cost / benefit is low return.

Maintenance is a factor of “time & mileage” on most mechanical items. A vehicle with low miles but has sat around for months on end can have issues. Promasters can be & IMO should be weekly drivers, and the ethanol gasoline should be filled more often than every 6 months. That isn’t to say a $400 “cleaning” of non-description would help your situation ( highly suspicious ).
 
Recently on Vancouver Island we are suffering from Ethanol in High Test from “The Man”;



My Honda power washer started up right away after sitting 2 years IIRC. I don’t believe I even placed it into “storage” properly ( carburetor & running the carb dry ). The old gasonline that was in it was ethanol free, but we can’t buy that on Vancouver Island anymore.
Did you try the marina's fuel station? All of them here on our lakes are 100% gas & it was the same when on the east coast in FL.
 
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