[el Jefe]

Not Everything Scales;

A Drain Pan, is a building (house) technology part. The idea is if you have a water leak PRV or Tank, the drain pan collects both which is the potable water system “to atmosphere” then to the drainage system which you can think of usually as “sewer”.

So IMO, in a Van ,,, it don’t scale ,,, meaning it is a different situation. For some things I would run house plumbing in a van & for other things I would not.

If you have the PRV blow, I would think it would be good to let that drain directly outside your van. You could simply run a drain hose to the outside & you might not need to make a new hole if you can find a route to a factory hole.

Not sure of your entire system, but I doubt you are talking about a large volume of water here.

I used PEX, but a male thread to barb hose & then a single length hose to drain outside would be simple;

View attachment 87437


Note; Photo example only to describe the brass fitting which IIRC will be 3/4”, but the PRV will be on the HWT so you can sort out the correct NPT size & then “pick” whatever hose size you want (at least 3/8” in my mind - but you are not talking about large volumes or you have a real issue).

Most likely it will never see water other than a slightly leaking PRV when the HWT is heated.





So to answer this;

View attachment 87438


Yes !!

Via “Hose, but thru the rocker cavity & under the van”
Via “Existing Rocker Drain Hole” - just pull out one of the rubber plugs

And if your TP valve opens on pressure or temperature as it is designed to do, it sometimes can be a lot of water, and/or a lot of pressure/steam. Vent directly to the outside of the van, not a drip pan. Also easier to notice when it is weeping, meaning in that scenario, may need to be replaced.

Have you seen videos of a water heater explosion?

 

[el Jefe]

Most explosions on water heaters and boilers occur when the T&P valves and/or boilers with pressure relief valves occur when folks either have "nuisance drips", or a corroded safety valve. So they just get rid of the drips with a threaded plug.

Pretty dramatic, eh?

 

[el Jefe]

Shockingly so! I think it is a short youtube video everyone should watch.

Another reason to heat your water via excess energy from solar/BB charger when your batteries are full or whenever.

My system stays @ 125⁰f for 10 gallons or I can heat up to 40 gallons to whatever temp I want if their are multiples of us at the trailhead when backpacking.

Open to the atmospheric pressure so no pressure vessel, at least $1,000 cheaper than engine coupled system, you have the choice when you fill your van with a bomb,....etc.

Everyone has a choice how and when they heat water for their needs. Good, inexpensive with unlimited control strategies. As complicated or simple as meets your needs.

My wife and I took a shower this afternoon with twenty gallons of 108⁰f water.

BTW, this is not anything new. Folks, including me have done this since solar panels came on the market.

 

[el Jefe]

There are inherent risks in everything we do but seriously have you or anyone you know ever had a water heater explode? I am more concerned with leakage and water damage than anything else. That being said I bet your system rocks in sunny weather!

It rocks in the sun and also when driving with the Orion BB's.

Never heard of a water heater exploding unless the T&P valve was corroded closed or intentionally plugged. Water expands somewhere around 1700 times from liquid to steam.