Walter White / WisenHymer Build

Ziggy Stardog · Sep 3, 2017

Thought I’d kick this off, since I technically started building yesterday by swapping out a radio receiver.

First some background:

Who
Me? I’m a son of a brilliant Electrical Engineer and accomplished Artist who grew up in Africa, because my grandfather was an elephant hunter turned game warden. I work as a Software Engineer, but I also designed hardware for many years for a cellular equipment manufacturer— mainly designing interface circuit boards and embedded controllers. I have design for manufacturability and 6 Sigma training, but something about me loves a good hack. It’s a value system that my father instilled in me modeled after the way he MacGyvered his family’s way through Nazi-occupied Holland during WWII after his father died.
What
A ProMaster van conversion of course. With a few unique twists. My aim originally was to build something similar to a Hymer Activ for a third of the price, but I took a left turn somewhere after I joined the forum.
Why
First, I been dreaming about building a Tiny House for years now or becoming a seasonal full-time RVer. There’s a whole host of legal and zoning issues surrounding Tiny Houses, and financially, full-time RV-ing will have to wait until I retire in a decade or so. So I combined the two and stopped dreaming and started doing. Second, Florida is hurricane country and I’ve seen my share since I moved here. I’ve been without power for weeks on end. I’ve had no generator and just a barebones evacuation plan. In light of Katrina and Harvey I feel the need to step up my hurricane game. This dove-tailed nicely with this project and I’ve been collecting dual-use equipment to support both efforts.
When
Someone asked how long this project was going to take, and I said forever. I really can’t say how long this is going to take. The important thing is I’ve started. The oppressive heat and humidity of Summer in Florida limits me right now. I’m not in a big rush, but I’m guessing a year might do it.
How
Good question. I’ve been told I have many good ideas (and an equal share of bad ones), but I’m not long on execution. So it’s fitting I’ll be working on an Italian-designed van. I plan to do a lot of proofs of concept and prototyping to hone my build and finishing skills. I’m not much of a visualizer, so I will be doing a lot of practical modeling and rendering to get things right. I’m not a cabinet-maker either, so I’m looking at weaving some prefabricated products into the project in unconventional ways. I work best with collaborated and appropriated designs, so I’ll be reaching out on the forum for solutions to problems, design exemplars, and I’ll hire outside help for some of the harder stuff.

Design Goals

First, things I’m not going to do

Swivel Seats.
Seems like no-one is happy with these unless factory.
Propane tank.
(I may have a 1 lb backup tank for a butane stove, however)
Lithium Batteries.
I don’t think this is a mature enough solution yet.
Arbitrary Solar, Inverter and Battery sizing.
I intend these to be measurement based, with decisions made Just-In-Time.
Bathroom sink.
Plan a stainless bowl in a holder that you take to the galley and fill up with hot water for shaving. Don’t see the need for redundancy.
Design for more than two people.
If more can fit, fine. But visits can take place outside the van.

Stretch Goals

I had a manager who said a project should always have a few stretch goals to advance the state of the art and keep things interesting. This project has more than its share. Here’s where Walter White will “break bad” and become WisenHymer.

I fully expect some or all of these to fail.

Solar water heater
(fallback: engine coolant heater)
Murphy Bed
(fallback: revised floorpan)
RV size bathtub
(fallback: shower/wet bath)
Moveable/removable Thetford toilet
(fallback: fixed wet bath)
Window mount air conditioner installed on roof and ducted through a vent
(fallback: conventional RV AC)
Standing desk
(fallback conventional)

I expect #5 to be controversial.

A few points on this

Air conditioning is a way of life in Florida
The air conditioner in question has dual use. It’s also in reserve to cool a room in my house off a generator when power fails (part of Hurricane plan)
The intent is to run AC off the smallest generator possible. I don’t intend to try and run it off of batteries, although I may try and run it off of an inverter while the ProMaster is running.
If it doesn’t work, all I’m out is some ductwork and some off-the-shelf RV air-conditioning parts that I can sell at half-price on eBay/Craigslist

Goals

Semi modular Layout
where bathroom and under bed storage options are mission-defined.
Dog Friendly
Aesthetically Pleasing
plan on some artwork in bare wall spots that go along with a murphy-bed layout. Plan to modify the plain white exterior with an understated partial body wrap in lieu of painting.
Full service
close to retail class B facilities, where possible.
Use best-in-class solutions where they make sense and are affordable

Preliminary Bill of Materials

Gasoline Espar heater
Engel MT80F-U1 Cooler (dual use)
Froli bed system
Westinghouse Microwave oven (600 watt) (dual use)
Instant Pot Pressure Cooker (800 watt) (dual use)
Induction burner(s) (800 watt) (dual use)
Butane/Propane Gas One stove (dual use)
Pontoon boat sofa (sofa/dinette/possible house battery storage)
RV sink Chinese Smev from eBay
Solar Panels TBD
Charge Controllers TBD
Inverter TBD
House Batteries TBD likely AGM, possibly located in pontoon boat storage
Kitchen Cabinets Ikea
Medicine Cabinet Ikea
Curt Trailer hitch
Pioneer AVH-4201-NEX receiver with backup camera
Westin Running Boards
Tern Overland Seitz-style windows (if I can get them to fit)
RV bath 40 x 24” Etrailer
Awning TBD
Water Heater Isotemp Spa 5 gallon
Tanks Fresh inside, Grey underneath
Generator TBD portable
Insulation TBD present plan is 1” polyiso possibly with some thinsulate
Lighting hope to use some (tasteful) dimmable LED strips I have on hand.
Finishing TBD looking at tongue & groove pine, but may go with something else.
Toilet Thetford Curve— ordered a manual pump for this from Amazon.de as the electric one is trouble-prone. I’m considering getting another one for spare parts and an extra “cassette”.

Fabrication

I’m a bit up in the air on this one. I’m considering using a profile system for the overhead bins at least, as I have experience and tools to work with aluminum. I also plan to use prefabricated items where they make sense. Prototyping will likely be in plywood.

Floorpan

Here’s what I have. The app I’m using on my iPad is a bit wonky, and the measurements are likely a bit off. I'm looking for another application for this. Don’t hold me to much of this, it’s a rough preliminary plan.

Some notes on the floorplan

Yes, the Murphy bed does incur a bit into the tub area. Presently the area above the tub is open and there’s a bendable shower rod that extends to the ceiling and avoids the bed. I also plan a L-shaped privacy curtain rod for the bath area as another layer of water abatement. There’s two walls of bath surround. One on the van wall, and the other between the water heater and the bath. This arrangement has some minuses, but it solves the path to the toilet in the middle of the night problem.
It doesn’t show, but there’s a fold-down table planed to meet the pontoon boat couch. This is only roughly planned and will take a lot of experimentation to get right. I’m considering a TV/monitor and some foot rests in this area as well. It’s going to take a lot of experimentation to make this work.
The Engel cooler sits over top of the water tanks behind the driver. It’s pretty darn heavy, so I’m looking at ways to safely secure it and help lift it. Might need a block and tackle or a winch.
The Thetford Curve is intended to be mounted on a teak shower mat, so that it can be moved or removed as necessary. I’m looking at a tent-like wardrobe at IKEA that fits in the tub too. On trips where you won’t plan to use the toilet, you can leave it at home and swap in the wardrobe.

Whew! If you've made it to the end of this TL;DR post... thanks! I'm going to need as much help as I can get, and I appreciate your attention and your inputs and opinions.

keeponvaning · Sep 3, 2017

Dog will guide you

Ziggy Stardog · Sep 3, 2017

Funny, Ziggy's favorite thing to do is to go underneath it. Maybe I should consider mounting more stuff below deck

.

I'm sure I'm going to have to "Let go and let dog." a few times before I'm through.

proeddie · Sep 3, 2017

Ziggy Stardog said:
...

When
Someone asked how long this project was going to take, and I said forever. I really can’t say how long this is going to take. The important thing is I’ve started. The oppressive heat and humidity of Summer in Florida limits me right now. I’m not in a big rush, but I’m guessing a year might do it.

Funny, my build has been affected by exactly the opposite... too cold to work on in the cold New England winters! Just completed year 3, with a few more items still on the punch list!

An alternative to swivel seats? Here's a thought. This has worked out really well for me at a very low cost.... could be done on both seats if you wanted to. We use ours a lot! Probably faster than swiveling a factory swivel seat, too. Very comfortable.

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51241

Ziggy Stardog · Sep 3, 2017

proeddie said:
An alternative to swivel seats? Here's a thought.

Nice idea, thanks. I may riff on this idea with a fold-down jump seat behind the passenger's. That's the sort of design collaboration, I was talking about.

The spot behind the drivers was going to be similar in my layout until I went with the Engel behemoth. Just as well, the Ikea cabinets I'm looking at are only available with a 15" depth which make it hard to accommodate a standard fridge .

RDinNHandAZ · Sep 3, 2017

Actually I think the swivels are great, you should rethink this. It makes my 136” van’s 60 sq ft roving tiny house into an 80 sq ft tiny house. I did try two before I was happy. Here is the solution to loving your swivels. Buy the Sportscraft lowered bases from eurocampers.com and while you are at their site order a drivers side swivel base too. Install that driver’s side swivel on the passenger side! Go to swivelsrus.com and order a CTA swivel base for a promaster (they are the same on both sides. Install that on the lowered base on the driver’s side.
You will love ‘em. The van feels BIGGER. The footrest you build can hold the heater. The tool container still fits. They are easy to swivel and don’t really hit anything. The passenger seat will be swiveled towards the door giving better access to the front. The dogs(s) will find the seats are their favorite place to be while you camp. They swivel!

Not to judge but nearly all IKEA cabinets are sawdust and glue with a thin plastic surface. They are heavy, come in restrictive sizes, and are held together with a few cheap cast fittings. You can buy an inexpensive table saw and build 1/2” hardwood boxes brad nailed and glued together that are better in every way and in the sizes you want and need. Just saying. I did it so can you!

Ziggy Stardog · Sep 3, 2017

RDinNHandAZ said:
Actually I think the swivels are great, you should rethink this.

Not to judge but nearly all IKEA cabinets are sawdust and glue with a thin plastic surface. They are heavy, come in restrictive sizes, and are held together with a few cheap cast fittings. You can buy an inexpensive table saw and build 1/2” hardwood boxes brad nailed and glued together that are better in every way and in the sizes you want and need. Just saying. I did it so can you!

I'll take another look at the swivels.

Per the cabinets, I hear you on the quality. Was considering a "rub" in plywood of some of the pieces and just using the drawers and the facings. By that time, you might have built it yourself, I know.

I've also looked at some made-to-order unfinished user assembled cabinets that are made out of plywood instead of MDF. There are a couple of vendors, but they can get pricy.

RDinNHandAZ · Sep 3, 2017

Can you find a cabinet builder in your area to do the drawers? Doors are easy and drawers are not too bad but if you never have I understand. Since I just sawed the openings to be the doors and drawer fronts the cabinet people could build and install the drawers and just add your faces.

Roblee · Sep 3, 2017

Interesting approach. Your open aisle would allow mounting furnace under pass seat without adding ducting. Cold air return from cab floor; heated air flows along floor to rear and creates a nice continuous flow of air. I built for one person also and love my fixed 24"x6'8" bed/couch with bins underneath and overheads above.

Ziggy Stardog · Sep 4, 2017

Roblee said:
Your open aisle would allow mounting furnace under pass seat without adding ducting. Cold air return from cab floor; heated air flows along floor to rear and creates a nice continuous flow of air.

I hadn't considered that. Most people do the driver's side, but I figured I had to do something because the area behind the driver is blocked.

The Murphy Bed is planned as a full-sized 54" x 74" split into two 27" x 74" inch sections with slatted independent Froli headrests. I have half of the Froli system put together already and I'm testing with a 3" mattress. I've slept on it the past two nights and it's working out well enough that I've ordered another mattress.

The Froli system allows for ventilation under the mattress, so hopefully the heat will rise to meet the right places.

MsNomer · Sep 4, 2017

Drawers and doors are available mail-order from the internet, reasonable prices and quality. Attach to vertical ply and you are done, no frame needed. Frames waste space.

Ziggy Stardog · Sep 4, 2017

Thanks, this gives me some new vendors to look at. There's a lot of overlap.

Some of them do both drawers and fronts and cabinets. I'll research and post a summary later.

Ziggy Stardog · Nov 2, 2017

Changes

Progress has been slow due to the weather and theatrical engagements I got roped into, but I've made a little progress and made some changes per feedback and prototyping. Details and highlights to follow later.

Passenger running board - installed
Curt trailer hitch - installed
Swivel seats - installed
Noico sound deading in cab - installed

Per inputs, prototyping and general head-scratching I've made some changes to the original plan.

Motion Windows on rear quarter panels and slider replace Tern Overland windows
Dual Murphy bunks replace single Full-sized Murphy bed
Swivel seats added (originally was on my not-to-do list)
Truckfridge TF130 replaces Engel
Pontoon boat sofa nixed
Ikea galley cabinet nixed in favor of self built with possible preassembled drawers and/or facing

Here's the revised rough floorplan:

Notes:

Water heater (with TDB pump) and the Truckfridge are stacked on top of the water tank
Fold up table behind the driver, so there's a dining area when swiveled
Fold-up counter/table top on side of galley that serves as a passenger dining area / extended counter space
Raised floor behind cab (footrest when swiveled)
Overhead cabinets above both bunks

I did some prototyping of the full-sized murphy bed, and found that it was going to be difficult to attach its frame above the wheel wells. Clearances were tight to clear the ceiling when the bed was raised. The fold-down dinette on the back of the bed was problematic too, so I decided to cut the whole thing in half and raise the support frame up to mount the bunks on the ribs below the quarter panel windows.

Now I can have overhead cabinets on both sides of the van rather than just one, and still have room for open storage benches below. Rather than put pillows on them or put a couch there, I'm planning to leave them open and they can double as open storage or a spot to put stadium seats or reclining floor chairs on top. There are many options for these on Amazon and likely more comfy than I can build. You can also now lower the bed on the opposite side so you can look out the window while relaxing in the chairs. The bunks cover the window areas when raised, are lighter and only have to support half the weight as before, so the murphy bed design is simplified.

These changes left me without a dinette, so I added the swivels and switched the fridge from horizontal to vertical. Stacking the fridge above the water tank and heater brought the door to a convenient height. And the space needed above the Engel to allow the door to swing is used for a dining area for the swiveled driver.

Overall I'm pleased with these changes, but they introduce their own set of issues:

The full-sized windows were ordered before I split and raised the bunks. While I like that when folded up the bunks serve as insulation, I'm concerned they may be hot or cold when first lowered.
Unless I cantilever the bunks down a bit, they are about on level with the windows. This may make sleeping a bit cold/hot too and add privacy concerns. Shades or blinds will probably help this and add a thermal barrier.
Unless I cantilever the bunks down, they are pretty high off the ground and I may have to provide steps.
One of the bunks folds down over part of the galley, so I either have to lower the whole thing to below standard counter height, or have a step in my counter. This is mitigated by the fold up countertop/eating area on the other side, but I'm looking into ways to deal with the step. For example a drawer in the top of the main galley cabinet that pulls out horizontally and holds my cook stove.

I'm curious how people with the more conventional sideways platform bed mounted across the ribs in the back address 2-3 above. Many of you have smaller windows, but some must have full-sized windows and can say if these issues are manageable in real life.

My windows arrive this Friday, and I'm equal parts excited and terrified. The plan is to install the rear quarter panel windows first so I can get some practice before I tackle the slider which by most accounts is a tight fit. I'm not in a rush, so I may spend this weekend making measurements and templates etc, and wait until next weekend to screw up my courage and tackle installing the windows. That way I still have time to chicken out and switch to smaller windows

Next steps beyond installing the windows are:

Install an insulated floor
Build prototype cabinets and practical mockups of everything else out of a bunch of 1/2" plywood and 2x4s I have. The idea is to get some practice with cabinetry and woodworking.
Sound deadening for polar bear repellant-- I hear they are attracted to white vans
Insulate the walls (I'm thinking thinsulate due to ease of installation and removal)
Based on the results of the prototypes and mockups, build the cabinets 'for reals'
Solar / electrical
Plumbing / bathroom
Install fans / air conditioning
Insulate ceiling (torn between polyiso and thinsulate)
Finish ceiling (thinking headliner, perhaps over panels)

I'm leaving stuff that goes on the roof for last because my city (which is effectively one big homeowners association) has ordinances about parking RVs and commercial vehicles in your driveway. So far so good, but as soon as someone complains and I get classified as an RV, I have to store the van elsewhere and am only allowed to park it in my driveway three days out of a week.

As always, thank you for your help and inputs. You've already been a big help.

vlouish · Nov 2, 2017

Ziggy Stardog said:
The full-sized windows were ordered before I split and raised the bunks. While I like that when folded up the bunks serve as insulation, I'm concerned they may be hot or cold when first lowered.

Unless I cantilever the bunks down a bit, they are about on level with the windows. This may make sleeping a bit cold/hot too and add privacy concerns. Shades or blinds will probably help this and add a thermal barrier.

Unless I cantilever the bunks down, they are pretty high off the ground and I may have to provide steps.

One of the bunks folds down over part of the galley, so I either have to lower the whole thing to below standard counter height, or have a step in my counter. This is mitigated by the fold up countertop/eating area on the other side, but I'm looking into ways to deal with the step. For example a drawer in the top of the main galley cabinet that pulls out horizontally and holds my cook stove.

I'm curious how people with the more conventional sideways platform bed mounted across the ribs in the back address 2-3 above. Many of you have smaller windows, but some must have full-sized windows and can say if these issues are manageable in real life.

We have full size windows and a near-queen size bed running sideways about 8 inches below the lower windowsill, so our situation is a little bit different than yours as we are below the base of the window. The driver-side window has two crank outs (it's a CRL window). We have insulated shades. Cold has not been a concern, and we prefer to do our camping when the temps range from 30-85 degree F. When there is a chill, we warm up quickly under our down comforter on sub 40-degree nights, even if the bed starts out cold. It's just not a problem. I doubt this would be much of an issue for you, although you would be colder at window level. With heat, we sleep with our feet to the crank out windows and the fan on; or we open the rear doors (we have made a mosquito net to cover the rear); or we add a small clip on fan; or we combine all these. Privacy has only been a concern when we have the rear doors open, but usually we wait until night to do that.

MsNomer · Nov 3, 2017

My crosswise bed is exactly at the bottom of my max-size Motion windows. No covering except "magic shade" pop up screens. From mid-teens to 100+, the windows have never been a problem.

Ziggy Stardog · Nov 4, 2017

Thanks, I saw a few like that and couldn't wrap my head around how they worked. I'm a bit torn between blackout and light filtering shades, so it's nice to know there are options.

I'm feeling a lot better about my window choice now. Good thing, because the crate from Penisula is now in my ProMaster. I was about to leave work disappointed that FedEx didn't show, and I saw the truck driving past the front of the building. He seemed relieved that he wasn't too late, and he lowered his liftgate and I backed in with the rear doors open and he just rolled the pallet jack into my van. Easy peasy. Was worried there'd be no one around to help me manhandle the 200 pound crate off the pavement.

ThomD · Nov 4, 2017

Following along to borrow your good ideas. What inspired you to change from Tern Overland to Motion windows?

Ziggy Stardog · Nov 4, 2017

That scares me a little. Be aware I have a seemingly unlimited supply of bad ideas too

. It can take a while for me to filter through them. Study the long-timers here. They've been there; I haven't.

I had multiple problems with the Tern Overland Windows:

Limited size options in stock
Long lead time for special orders
Blind and screen assemblies take significant interior room limiting size of windows
Windows come in various thicknesses which complicates ordering
I prefer more window area to avoid feeling closed in (stealth is not a priority for me)

Don't get me wrong, they have a lot of benefits too. The size limitations were the main trigger for me. Now that I know that cellular blinds offer similar insulation benefits, I think I made the right choice. But I'm not much of a fresh air fiend, and awning windows are more of a nice-to-have rather than a have-to-have. Same with the OEM aesthetics, or I probably would have bought CRL windows instead.

I think they would be great for a Class A or C or a trailer where you have straight slab sides without a lot of curves ribs and other obstacles in the way. Or for a Class B if you are happy with small or limited window area or if stealth is important to you.

Ziggy Stardog · Nov 5, 2017

The basics are the Eurocamper swivels have an offset that causes them to interfere with various things.

The CTA Swivels R Us swivels are centered so they don't interfere much. They don't swivel quite as nicely, but at least they don't hit anything. The driver's side Eurocamper works better in the passengers slot.

Here are a few links to get you started, but I suggest you search the forum further for more info.

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67489&highlight=Swivels

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66594&highlight=Swivels

MsNomer · Nov 5, 2017

Ed's work is so good, you think you're in a train instead of a van.

And those shades are indeed awesome.

Ziggy Stardog · Nov 6, 2017

Yeah, Ed's my new hero. He even reconstructed his thread when his pictures went awry

I'm teasing, of course, but I'm sure plenty of newbies would support a gofundme to ransom your pictures back. They were around for a short while when first I joined, and now that I'm motivated to study your thread more closely, I got sound but no picture.

I feel like a guy who's run out of money at a peep-show-- the door's closed, but the dancing music's still playing. >

Now that I've heard more about your build, I'm amazed at how much I can glean from squinting at your profile picture. Well chosen.

MsNomer · Nov 7, 2017

Redoing those pics is never far from my mind. Problem is, I'm either working on the van or traveling. Like tonight I'm so excited that I'm close to realizing my inside shower.

Ziggy Stardog · Nov 7, 2017

Understood. And as far as photobucket goes, it's the principle of the thing I'm sure. No worries.

RDinNHandAZ · Nov 7, 2017

To say proeddie’s van looks like the inside of a train has to be the highet complement you could give him. I bet he’s standing 6 ft tall! (and that would be a stretch!)

Ziggy Stardog · Nov 7, 2017

FYI-- If you use Chrome, I've found a plug-in that presently works to defeat the Photobucket ransom messages, and lets you see the images. Works great on MsNomer's threads! Just go to the link below and add the plugin to Chrome.

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/.../webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg?hl=en

No telling how long this is going to work, so I'm going to view threads and save images or print things out while I can.

keeponvaning · Nov 7, 2017

Great find! I’m sure MsNomer will be happy also!

MsNomer · Nov 8, 2017

Ain't that the truth! However, this morning I did get started on a Wordpress blog about the build, with photos, that I will reference here when I'm done.

Well Darn, thwarted again. After a few posts, I realized that Wordpress always puts posts in reverse chronological order and the solutions are beyond my abilities. Fine for my travel blog, but unworkable for the build. So back to square zero and a number of hours wasted.

johntyree · Nov 24, 2017

It's a bit annoying, but there's apparently a workaround. https://en.support.wordpress.com/show-your-posts-in-chronological-order/

You can link to it that way instead of the default way. Then at least referrals will get it in the right order. Otherwise you'd need a link in your sidebar to your first post with the asc=True url param tacked on.

MsNomer · Nov 8, 2017

Plastics!! I dream of plastics for those impossible places! Please find something that works for a DIY.

Edit: I looked up that Kydex and it looks like a dream come true. Is it really that easy? Is it heated in an ordinary oven without off-gassing? Can it be successfully painted?

Ziggy Stardog · Nov 8, 2017

I've been trying to figure this out, best I can tell it either comes in colors or fabrics can cover or be embedded in it. Seems to be a wide variety of colors of holsters and knife sheaths made with the stuff. Definitely can be heated in a regular oven and pressed in a form with some some clamps or vacu-formed with a homemade fixture with a shop vac or a vacuum pump.

Edit: It can be painted. "KYDEX® sheet can easily be painted and screen printed as long as the recommended paints and inks are used." https://www.curbellplastics.com/Res...RDCARIsAPO8RFzPgTW3jt3_1XUnSRSBLPlJ5adhSwtwAiP-_fO9ZjzQd-ZXdAM1hG0aAmRfEALw_wcB

Alumilite resin is used for casting props and by lathe turners (just realized that's where "Turner's Tape" comes from) as blanks for turning pens and rings and such. The stuff must be pretty strong because it's the stuff that they make climbing wall holds out of.

MsNomer · Nov 26, 2017

Thank you, Gary. I hadn't understood that. I will explore the pages concept. I like Wordpress because I can upload as emails. If they pull a Photobucket hijack, at least I'll still have my sent emails.

MsNomer · Jan 27, 2018

Ziggy, I found 4' x 8' sheets of Kydex for $10 each at a salvage yard in Wichita. This could get interesting.

Wowbagger · Dec 3, 2020

At The Yard? It sounds like you are in my area. The Yard is a terrible place - I always find something there I didn't know I needed.... and it's too close to Coco Dulce, the Spice Merchant, and Nifty Nut House.

Ziggy Stardog · Jan 28, 2018

That’s a great deal! Next you need to find some closed cell foam to press it. Some people use camping mats, so you may have that covered. And some way to heat it. I got a large toaster/convection oven off of Craigslist. Some people use pancake griddles, heatguns and people who are really serious use T-shirt transfer presses. Oh and get some silicone or nomex gloves to handle hot pieces.

I’ve had some mixed results so far. The tricky part is engineering a press when you are working with larger parts. Usually pressing is done with a two-sided sandwich or ‘taco’ press. I’ve been working with metal frames made out of aluminum extrusions. The good news is if you don’t like the results you can easily heat a sheet back up and try again.

Club Rider · Dec 3, 2020

Why did your Grand Father hunt Elephants ? respectfully to your G.F. Not sure why you feel the need to mention this in a build post.

proeddie · Dec 3, 2020

CR,

context, background, sharing, etc... kind of like saying, "...Nothing Rhymes with Happy Husband"

Many of us here will enhance our posts with tidbits about our non-PM interests... it's a very friendly and interesting community!

aaronmcd · Dec 3, 2020

proeddie said:
CR,

context, background, sharing, etc... kind of like saying, "...Nothing Rhymes with Happy Husband"

Many of us here will enhance our posts with tidbits about our non-PM interests... it's a very friendly and interesting community!

Also, why bump an almost 3 year old thread when OP hasn't posted in almost as long just for that?

I wonder if OP ever finished the build.

MsNomer · Dec 3, 2020

Yep, The Yard. Obviously we need to meet.

Wowbagger · Dec 4, 2020

When the positive rate's a bit lower than it is now, perhaps.

Walter White / WisenHymer Build

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