That would be something to look into. I have law enforcement friends who have mentioned the hot dog system that k9 patrol cars utilize. Looks like I have more homework to do.Another route that no one seems to ponder is to use an auto-start system that monitors interior temperature. IMO it would be no different than using the ESS feature used in Jeep models that have the 3.6L.
IIRC Viper and Compustar offer temperature start features.That would be something to look into. I have law enforcement friends who have mentioned the hot dog system that k9 patrol cars utilize. Looks like I have more homework to do.
Yes - my small van electrical shop does this. Technically 4 and 8 kW-hr versions but yes and for this exact application.Are there really companies that will install a 6kwh or more battery system in a van? Would love to know how much that system costs installed. This seems like the realm of the DIYers with an engineering background. Not only is this incredibly complex and expensive, its also very dangerous! Id be suprised if a company would accept the liability but then again there are companies bolting bench seats to the sheet metal floor. If done correctly Id expect this battery system to cost a small fortune.
And, an additional landscape for much more solar than can fit on top of the van. Not practical if you don't want to haul the trailer everywhere but really practical if you boondock.Another possible alternative for you is to buy a small trailer and use it for the generator and related fuel.
It is good to have clarity - makes decisions easier.No trailer for me. If I wanted to haul something I would have bought a pull behind camper which would have been much cheaper.
I will either modify my plans or keep adding batteries/power until I get it.
For a small space like a van, the first priority should be to reduce cooling load to no more than 50% of that 1 kW.It is good to have clarity - makes decisions easier.
Somewhere around the 8 - 12 kW-hr capacity range, not a great deal more ends up helping in this application, but "rough budget numbers" air conditioning takes ~ 1 kW continuous average power to run.
You can add a second alternator to the gas engine, but it will be basically at the bottom of the engine. I have a friend with a gas Promaster with a second alternator, and he often gets worried about it when he is in a clearance needed situation.High idle and larger / more alternators can be used in some vehicles to increase output. Again - have not studied the ability to add additional alternators to the Promaster platform. There are some pretty impressive alternators on the market, mostly driven by car audio enthusiast.
I was thinking you were really about to be dissappointed until I got to the last part of your post. My experience with my well insulated van is that the 5000 BTU air conditioner can just barely handle it when the temperature is 100 degrees and 70-80% humidity when I am parked in partial sun.I've been working on the possibilities of running an air conditioner on batteries. It's fairly daunting but not impossible. Very, very few van builds include a truly controlled environment and consequently the effective R-Value will be closer to 4, and the square footage will be closer to 500. In that situation 500 square feet x .25 (U-value) gives a cooling load of 125 BTU/hr per degree of temperature, which is about 3,750 BTU/hr just to deal with the space cooling when it gets to be 100 out, so the totals almost double and then it starts to seem ridiculous.
Great suggestion on the viper or compustar remote units. I’m eyeing both of their higher end (viper 5906 or Compustar ProT13) adding cellular lte so temp can also be checked via app on phone.IIRC Viper and Compustar offer temperature start features.
Still poking around, AceK9 Automatic Engine Start Software Option with Engine Stall Sensor