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Dammit here, just requesting some kind feedback on my wiring diagram set up before I re-re-finalize my decisions :)

Context:
Planning on building a "simple" camper van, not a live-in /full-timer van.
The electrical setup location is behind the Driver's side in the back, over the wheel well.
  • 2021 RAM Promaster 136WB
  • No built in stove, AC, or toilet
  • No large central water tank, just a 6 gallon under the kitchen galley and a separate 2.5 gallon in the rear fo a shower (2 x H2O pumps)
  • mostly using 14-2 and 12-2 awg for my 12v devices
  • wanted to save $ so my wire choices may seem odd but I tried to go larger ie. I just bought 2/0 and 4 awg wires
  • still not sure what solar setup I am getting between 200W-400W of solar
  • already did my pre-wiring for my 12v and 120v wires

Any tips and advice are welcome, first timer who is 3 months into the build...

Thanks,
Dammit, Van
Hi @van_dammit

For a 1st timer - good start (ya gotta start with something) 👍

Good comments by @Dekkars 👍

In General; Electrical is designed from the intended loads (now & future added loads) and worked back to the battery. Once the battery is “picked” then you figure out how to charge it.

The more “we” understand what you are trying to accomplish the better advise we can give you. The more defined your loads the higher resolution your design can be. As an example of “defined” you have shown a 2000W inverter, & although I can assume what “animal” that is without manufacturer specifications like peak Watts or peak amps I assume a 2000W inverter will peak @ 4000W (I have an unused 3000W that peaks @ 6000W or so says the manufacturer).

Sounds like you have prewired; where that might work out fine, it is best to finalize your electrical design before wiring.

Here are my point format comments;

No Shore Power?
2 pumps (for 50 seconds of running & 120seconds of running til empty @ full 3gal/minute) “need more info”?
How are you cooking - microwave only?
Fuses vs Breakers (maybe in some locations)
2 post battery terminal fuse holder?
Need for bus bars (2 post battery terminal fuse & negative shunt)?
If you go “breakers” get good quality ones.
Make your DC to the Inverter as close (short) as possible.

If you are going to add “Shore Power” then a “Power Center” similar to what @Dekkars referenced would be a good investment; AC Panel / DC Panel / Converter / Charger all in one box @ $200 to $400.


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Van #2 2021 EXT
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I see my mistake, so the shunt should be connected to the negative bus bar with that same 2/0 awg negative wire
Hi van dammit

If you are going to neg. ground as @SteveSS suggests there are 2 sides of the shunt (battery & everything else).

My original comments were made in attempt to simplify your system. Neg Bus; on my system is the non battery side of my shunt (they have big lugs & IIRC I had 2 major ring connectors - chassis ground & Power Center which is my van DC panel). You only have 3 connections - that might be pushing it - you would have to research - if you did go this route I would ensure a Neg Bus could be added later if more space was required. On the Pos Bus; If you installed a double battery post fuse holder (Blue Sea photo);

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Then one fuse could go to your inverter & the other fuse could go to your other Pos connections. That was my initial thought after a quick look at your proposed design, but it was low resolution until I knew more what your electrical intentions were.

I saw & agree with @SteveSS post. I am not a fan of breakers - more of fuses unless a switch function is needed (even then I like fuses & switches especially if multi functioned.)

I had no DC breakers in my van, but have several of these ones I have installed in airplanes (IMO if they are good enough for aviation they are good enough for vans);

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Hi van dammit


Questions:
  • 4awg on going to a 90A breaker to my Blue Sea 100A Fuse block, is this okay to go smaller if I have to? Reason is that the 100A Bussman breaker may not arrive until mid December, I can get the 90A in a few days... I think you will be fine with the 90, but best to size the wire for the 100
 

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I don't have any upfitter loads, and my fuse is 70a and the b2b can draw 50a, but in practice I have never seen more than 40.

Thanks!
My 2018 had a 70amp fuse & I also charged my house batteries from that fuse (but direct - no B2B). It must be a "slow to blow" factory 70amp as I would see spikes above 70amps when turned on. Then the charge rate would quickly settle down to around 60amps or less depending upon SOC.


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I'm guessing that the other 250A breaker before the 2000W inverter is also probably useless. I didn't realize there was the 125A max output on the batteries, I missed that detail.

I suppose if I ever add another 170AH battery, they would come in play...
If you want to design your electrical for future possible upgrades; size the wire for future use & size the (breaker or fuse) lower for the 125A max & then in the future you only need to swap out the (breaker or fuse)
 
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