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Discussion Starter #1
Hello there, I'm trying to decide between the Astro 1442 or the Astro 1452 rivet nut setter. The latter being more heavy duty with larger setting capacity. 1442 appears to have capacity from M5-M8 and 1452 capacity from M8-12. Has anyone found a need or use for rivnuts bigger than M8? What rivnut size has anyone used to install supports along ribs for a transverse bed? Much obliged!
 

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Octagonal rivnuts are m8, but m10 hardware is used in places. I would opt to have the option to set m10, just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Octagonal rivnuts are m8, but m10 hardware is used in places. I would opt to have the option to set m10, just in case.
I don't think those tools have a mandrel for octagonal rivnuts. I suppose I could drill them out and use M10?
 

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I don't think those tools have a mandrel for octagonal rivnuts. I suppose I could drill them out and use M10?
Trying to line your built structures up with existing holes is a huge pain, fyi. After going through this in a build, I'd encourage anyone starting fresh to just drill holes through whatever you're trying to attach (framing member, cabinet, something else) and then continue the hole into the van metal. Once holes are done, remove the item and install rivnuts. Everything will line up perfectly.

Once a rivnut spins or strips you're really not in a good place. This happens by applying force at an angle, which often can happen when you're trying to use preexisting holes.

The notion that drilling even 100's of additional holes for say 1/4x20 bolts will somehow cause the vehicle to rust faster is just ridiculous. Sure, the shavings will oxidize, I'm not denying it. But we're talking no visible/noticeable/damage for the vehicles lifetime. You can also generally insert a cloth and catch the tiny amount of metal shavings that will sit in cavities.

Just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks @kifo4173 ! I hadn't actually considered that issue and I can see it would be a royal PITA. I'll drill new holes and use M8s or M10s.
 

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I went with plus or cross rivnuts, they are correctly called pre bulbed rivet nuts but any of those names will get you the right part. No special tool needed but a impact driver is best (mine is battery powered). If you don't have an impact driver use the money you were going to use for the rivnut tool toward a very useful tool.

You can get into some tight spots with the very small adapter that came with 20 of them on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/183070034828?ViewItem=&item=183070034828

Here is my Instagram post:

jimmcneill1978 Plus nuts are essential to attaching wood to the metal walls in the van. The kit of 20 from EBay came with a compression device. Using an impact drill made quick work of attaching them. I made a black mark on the socket to allow easy counting of the revolutions (10 to 11) to fully compress the nuts. I broke the original bolt on the first one so I upgraded to a grade 8 bolt. A good compression will leave the tick marks, see in the bottom left pic.

lukejasso I’m gonna start using those, the Rivnuts I’ve been using strip too easily

nick_mardirosian
Yep, i’ve found rivnuts suck! What size plus nuts are you using?
 

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I have used a very small (6mm) box end wrench and a socket on my drill to set RivNuts when a tool was not available.
 

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I don't think those tools have a mandrel for octagonal rivnuts. I suppose I could drill them out and use M10?
I don't believe they make octagonal rivnuts. You may be thinking of hex rivnuts. The mandrel on the Astro tools doesn't impact the sides of rivnuts anyway, so it works with hex or round ones.

The 1442 works for me. I've used hex rivnuts in existing holes. I haven't used any existing round holes so far and don't plan to.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I went with plus or cross rivnuts, they are correctly called pre bulbed rivet nuts but any of those names will get you the right part. No special tool needed but a impact driver is best (mine is battery powered). If you don't have an impact driver use the money you were going to use for the rivnut tool toward a very useful tool.
OK I'm intrigued by this because as it happens, I don't actually have an impact driver (just a regular corded drill), but I've been eyeing one for months and shirking because of the $. I think I might give this method a shot. While we're on the subject....any recommendations for a good quality impact driver that's well suited for van conversion needs? :)
 

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I bought 2 sets of Ridgid 18 volt drill and driver kits. After a lifetime of Makita, Porter Cable, Duwalt, etc I find them just as good and if bought in a kit AND properly registered the tools AND batteries are lifetime guaranteed. They come with a smaller “half” battery which is very good and I have purchased two of the large batteries for a 6” saw. I have their larger hammer drill, a vibratory saw and a reciprocating saw. All are good.

See:https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...5Ah-Batteries-Charger-and-Bag-R9602/205762719
 
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My 2 cents. I'm finding more and more I'm using my drills rather than my drivers to drive screws and bolts. I find it easier to modulate the amount of torque applied with the drill clutches. I tend to use the drivers more for removing fasteners rather than driving them.

If you are just starting out, a drill/driver set with batteries is probably your best value. They give a deal on these sets to get you hooked on a brand, as the batteries are not interchangeable. If you are price sensitive, refurbished tools are an option-- although they often come with a lesser warranty.

One wrinkle on the Ridgid tool warranty: you only get a lifetime battery coverage if they come with a tool/set. Otherwise the warranty is three years. Some tools only come as a bare tool, so it's sometimes hard to get everything covered. The majority of my tool failures have been battery related, so this has some value.
 

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Why even bother with metric ones? SAE sizes are cheap and plentiful! My Astro kit came with both but I’ve never even us d to be metric ones to much trouble
 

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Discussion Starter #14
@RDinNHandAZ Excited to report that the Ridgid 18 volt kit from Home Depot that I obediently placed in my cart last night after reading your recommendation, but then hesitated and subsequently fell asleep, had miraculously reduced in price by $30 overnight. Clearly a sign from the universe, clicked "buy". Along with the plus nuts recommended by @[email protected] I hope to get stuck in to the next build phase this weekend :) :) @Ziggy Stardog I will fill in the warranty promptly, thanks!

@keeponvaning I find SAE confusing. I'm European me...
 

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I hope you find them as good as I have. I think they are a bargain especially if you got $30 off! KOV I have a metric set of Astro tool mandrels as when I went to buy one it was half the price of the SAE set on Amazon for a similar range of sizes. Ziggy you are right over torquing screws is way easy with the driver. Experience helps. OTOH put a socket with adapter on it and you can drive surprisingly large lags and hex head long screws compared to the drill. Ridgid’s registration is a bear. Both my sets and 4 batteries (an a stupid radio) are registered and I kept a .pdf of my receipt so someday.............
 
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I hope you find them as good as I have. I think they are a bargain especially if you got $30 off! KOV I have a metric set of Astro tool mandrels as when I went to buy one it was half the price of the SAE set on Amazon for a similar range of sizes. Ziggy you are right over torquing screws is way easy with the driver. Experience helps. OTOH put a socket with adapter on it and you can drive surprisingly large lags and hex head long screws compared to the drill. Ridgid’s registration is a bear. Both my sets and 4 batteries (an a stupid radio) are registered and I kept a .pdf of my receipt so someday.............
I second this reco! Impact driver will change your life... and make sure to register the tools with Rigid online. That way you get lifetime batteries.
 

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GC,

I have (2) of the Jobmax battery powered handles and (1) AC powered handle. AC one is nice for heavier or longer jobs.

I have about 8 attachments... my most used? Jigsaw, right angle drill, power socket drive (which I use as my rivnut power tool). The Jobmax stuff are my "go to" tools for many jobs.

The jobmax attachments are great and the AC or DC power offers lots of uses.... I would recommend that all!
 

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Now I'm eyeing the Ridgid JobMax.
Some tips on the JobMax... all the parts for this are interchangeable with the Ryobi JobPlus (edit: except the batteries) which is cheaper but with a lesser warranty. They are all made by the same manufacturer, Techtronics Industries, who also makes Milwaukee and other tool brands. There was talk of Ryobi being sold off to Kyocera, but I'm not sure what came of that.

Direct Tools is their manufacturer outlet and you can sometimes get "factory blemished" tools from them which carry the same warranty as HD often at a discount. Price differences vary, so you have to check both sites. The quality of their refurbished stuff varies a fair deal and you don't get the Ridgid lifetime warranty, so I usually just buy the factory blemished Ridgid tools.

Depending on which attachments you get for the JobMax system, things can really add up. Direct Tools is often a good deal for these.

Here's link to a search for their JobMax compatible deals:

https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=jobmax
 

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Discussion Starter #20
"Plusnutting" is proceeding apace. I have had relative success using the little adapter recommended by Mr. McNeill along with my new Ridgid driver (love it so far) and the pre-bulbed plus nuts from ebay. I used the "line on the nut driver" approach and find that for me around 8-9 revolutions works well (usually) to fix the plus nut in place. However, I've had a couple occasions where even though I'm trying to be super careful not to overdo it, the bolt refuses to come back out and I have to wrench the whole adapter plus bolt out with brute force which is not satisfying or pretty. Then the bolt loosens up just fine, but of course rather too late in the day. I thought I had it diagnosed with the 8-9 revolution limit, but then it happened again even when I was convinced I hadn't overtightened. Anyone any clue as to what I'm doing wrong??
 
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