[EllieRed]

I’m looking at adding a microwave to my vans kitchen, and was wondering what microwaves people were getting... I’m sure size is a big factor, but for me a big issue is also the power draw, as I have a 1200 inverter and no way of changing it ( my electric system is goal zero based). I can add more battery power ( will have 200 ah in a couple of days), but the inverter is my bottleneck.
I’ve been looking at this microwave :
Whirlpool Silver Countertop Microwave Oven 0.5 Cu Ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JJXWB1B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_K4xPFb6YCWS7B
Size wise it fits well, and I found it for a $ 102, not the ridiculous $300 that Amazon charges for it. But for the life of me I can’t find it’s energy usage. My understanding is that the 750 watts it’s advertised for is output, not input?

 

[bahawton]

I bought that microwave and have tested it with my 2,000 watt Aims inverter 10+ times with no problems (not permanently installed yet). Boiled water as quickly as my large home microwave and cooked a Marie Callender Beef Pot Pie in the same 9 minutes, too.

 

[tgblake]

Yes 750W is the output. Input will likely be 1100-1200W. Add in 10% for inverter inefficiency and you will likely have problems with a 1200W Inverter. I have a 700W Output Microwave and it struggles on a 1500W Inverter. Although that is more likely due to battery issues rather than the inverter, but I think you will be cutting it close on 1200W.

 

[MsNomer]

Walmart's cheapest is a good place to start looking . Check the label by the AC cord for input specs. Look for one with knobs instead of digital buttons.

For you, 600-650W output will be better than 700—slower, but might eke in under your inverter limit.

 

[KeepMeMoving]

We have the inexpensive Walmart Microwave for our van. It is advertised as 700W. The label on the back says 1050W. (oddly our van microwave just happened to be sitting next to me in our kitchen as our kitchen microwave was broken).

700W will get whatever you are zapping hot but it will take longer than the microwave you might have at home.

I had originally planned on having a 1500W inverter but got a very good deal on a 2000W Samlex that has worked fine for over 3 years. 1200W sounds like it will tight.

One thing to note is this little microwave pulls a lot of amps at 12V. I had estimated about 100 amps when I put it in. Our 150 Amp-hr battery cannot provide juice quick enough to run it. Our van must be running to get enough power for our microwave to work.

 

[MsNomer]

200Ah are sufficient if batteries are close to full, as they usually are after a day in the sun.

 

[KeepMeMoving]

MsNomer, is that two batteries to make up the 200Ah?

 

[keeponvaning]

My 600w micro runs fine on my 200ah battery setup (2- 6v flooded GC’s). As a precaution I usually do start the van up in the morning if I’m going to use it, however. Lunchtime & dinnertime I don’t bother.

 

[MsNomer]

Five years on two 100Ah Trojans. Just recently installed two 125Ah Lifelines. MW is our biggest draw—used every day—but we have several other ~800W appliances and we boondock for weeks at a time.

 

[barefootnomad]

The cheapest one I could find at Target that didn’t exceed my inverter capacity.

BTW, at full power the batteries are pushing a lot of current. I originally planned two batteries (210 A), but ended up doubling it to 4, not for capacity, but to reduce the draw on each from ~80A to ~40A each.

 

[travelvanvan]

For the OP, a cheap generic 0.7 cubic foot 700W microwave will pull 100A from your electrical system. Tested with meters and shown with a pic:

Electrical Diagram Review, B2B Charging, Grounding...

Can you really replace the BMS on a battleborn? Sure you can on a home built pack. Agree, proper design/fusing should prevent issues with either type of battery. I can indeed (computer/electrical engineering degree, electrician, 25+ years basic fixing stuff experience). There is nothing...

www.promasterforum.com

Myself, I would worry that the 1200W output of your inverter would make it borderline, though I suspect many of their customers would have tried using such microwaves with their Goal Zeros and so there's likely reviews and reports on the Internet of how well it works (or not).

A problem with many of these cheapo microwaves is that there is no "lower setting". (Though I wonder if the ones with knobs (i.e. more "analog") suggested by MsNomer might offer this).
On mine at least, if I "dial down" the power setting on my microwave, it will simply run it for a shorter period of time--but in the most asinine way.

i.e. if I want 10% power for 1 minute, it will run on MAX for 6 sec out of 60! So stupid! The trouble with this is, other than the stupidity, is that your electrical system still must be capable of delivering 100A.

You have a Goal Zero so presumably, they've engineered the device well. But others, like me, who've cooked up DIY electrical systems, need all their components capable of 100A, not just the inverter (batteries, cables, connections, etc.).

 

[phil]

 

[MsNomer]

Yes, I’ve seen that Panasonic and had forgotten about it. Might solve OP's dilemma.
. I would switch to it if if would fit my cabinet.

 

[barefootnomad]

I saw some nice Inverter microwaves that I considered buying, but all of them had a higher input amperage than my 1500/3000W inverter could handle, and having to reset the power level every time is a pain, and many microwaves only let you set the cook power after you've started it.

 

[MsNomer]

Maybe this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00785MVRA/?coliid=I3BSX755LQQ08D&colid=24CY0C9HI80X4&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[proforma]

I'm using a Black and Decker 0.7 cu ft 700 watt. Bought it at Target: BLACK+DECKER 0.7 cu ft 700W Microwave Oven - Black EM720CPN-P

I think the input is around 1050 watts. When I run it it shows about 1200 watt being used (I'm assuming this includes the inverter inefficiency).

 

[travelvanvan]

I saw some nice Inverter microwaves that I considered buying, but all of them had a higher input amperage than my 1500/3000W inverter could handle, and having to reset the power level every time is a pain, and many microwaves only let you set the cook power after you've started it.

My inexpensive induction burner is like that. Turn it on and it goes to full power, followed by frantic jabbing at the controls to reduce power so it doesn't overload my electrical system. You get used to it after a while. But at least it can offer a lower consumption.

I've added more battery power now and so I don't have to do that anymore. (The previous limit was my single LiFePO4 battery, max current = 100A = approx 1200W. Induction burner on max = 1800W...)

 

[EllieRed]

Wow, thank you guys for being so helpful! I really appreciate all the thoughts... I thought I didn't get any more answers as I didn't get anymore emails so I thought no one else had said anything, but you guys had dang, thanks!
I used your advice and bought another battery which I will attach to my present one... Actually had to buy two, because the old battery of the goal zero was older, and I was worried about hooking it up to an new battery so I just got a new replacement for the original one as well.
As far as a microwave, I got a super cute little teal thing, 700 a output, 950 a input... I've tried it so far only a couple of times ( as the second battery hasnt arrived so I had to try it on my oldie), and it works just fine! It does seem to stress the battery out, but that should be better when my amperage increases to 250a. ( Maybe? Still can't say I have a solid grasp on electronic logic, heh)

 

[MsNomer]

Oh, I like that! 😃 It should do very well with your new batteries. procedures will require more time—you will get used to it.

Consider screwing down a small strip of wood in front of the feet.

 

[EllieRed]

Oh, I like that! 😃 It should do very well with your new batteries. procedures will require more time—you will get used to it.

Consider screwing down a small strip of wood in front of the feet.

That's the plan!!! Thanks MsNomer 😊