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2020 Promaster 2500 High Roof.
Still working on it but I'm really happy with the way it's coming out. I wanted to keep it modular so I'm keeping permanent fixtures to a minimum. I just received my 2500w inverter, so I'll be installing that here shortly.
 

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Just need a plywood floor and some overhead lights and you're good to go.
Maybe a generator?
 

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Just need a plywood floor and some overhead lights and you're good to go.
Maybe a generator?
I'm trying to stay away from generator fro as long as I can. That's why I bought the inverter for just in case, but typically I shouldn't need it. Hopefully I'll be able to get a floor in when I get back from my trip. I'm just kinda rushing to get it organized for an out of town Job at the moment. What thickness would you suggest?
 

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I'd go with at least 5/8 (19/32).
3/4 if you want to fasten anything to it.
Mostly to protect the floor from scratches/rust, dents from dropping things and keep from ending up on your rear from sawdust or oil.
 

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Do you have tie down rings in the floor? You can use those to bolt the the wood down
 

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Another option is the carpet by BedRug.
1- it will cost more than 3 sheets of quality ply, but be zero work to install.
2- the foam backing is fitted to the ribs, so it's a firm feel and it's also very durable and chemical resistant.
3- it will cut down on noise a little.
4- besides price, the worst part is dog hair and wood shavings get stuck in it.
I've had their product in pickup beds and it's fantastic. If I didn't need to fasten cabinetry to the van floor, I would have gotten a bedrug and been done.
Just another option to consider.
 

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Another option is the carpet by BedRug.
1- it will cost more than 3 sheets of quality ply, but be zero work to install.
2- the foam backing is fitted to the ribs, so it's a firm feel and it's also very durable and chemical resistant.
3- it will cut down on noise a little.
4- besides price, the worst part is dog hair and wood shavings get stuck in it.
I've had their product in pickup beds and it's fantastic. If I didn't need to fasten cabinetry to the van floor, I would have gotten a bedrug and been done.
Just another option to consider.
I'll probably stick with some plywood. Seems like the most simple to maintain.
 

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I did some work on one of the bosses trailers. He had a tool box rack like yours (different brand) which works great on a wall but I it wasn't strong enough to take the added load incurred when driving over jarring road bumps. Some of his boxes were filled with heavy tools and all the support arms were cracking. In the trailer I could modify the rack so the bottom box sat on the floor. I then reworked the rest of the rack so all the gaps were 3/4" and put wooden pads to go between the boxes so when the load came crashing down from a big road bump the load transferred though the boxes to the floor. Keep an eye on those support arms.
Hope this helps.
 

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I did some work on one of the bosses trailers. He had a tool box rack like yours (different brand) which works great but we found it was not designed to take the added load incurred when driving over jarring road bumps. All the support arms were cracking. In the trailer I could modify the rack so the bottom box sat 3/4" off the floor. I then installed a 3/4" pad on the floor. I built wooden pads to go between the boxes so when the load came crashing down from a big road bump the load transferred though the boxes to the floor. Keep an eye on those support arms.
Hope this helps.
I definitely though about that but the packout gave directions for installing in vehicles. I guess they've already thought about that. There are also spots to connect a ratchet straps on the wall mount. I went ahead and strapping the creates down to help stabilize and keep them from jumping on bumps. As long as they aren't overloaded I'm fairly confident that they will be just fine. These support arms are really beefy. I'm actually impressed how solid this system feels.
 

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Looks good. I would echo the sentiment that you want a floor down, even in a work van. In mine I went with plywood as well. To keep the seam edges from curling up or otherwise being uneven you can create a lap joint by rabbeting the adjoining edges with a router, then some small flathead screws and glue. I went that route. In hindsight a method that might be easier and quicker for install would be use 2 layers of 3/8ths ply, then the top layer seams can just be butted together and the top layer edges screwed to the bottom layer. Some aluminum angle on the exposed edges at the door openings will also help protect those (plywood edge relieved to inset the angle if you don’t want any lip).
 

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I'm sorry but that setup is way too organized for me. I could manage to get everything in the wrong place after a day's work! In my workplaces, I relay on memory to figure out where stuff is... so some days I go right to the tool I need and others I walk around in circles retracing my steps. 😁 😁 😁 (As do a few of our fellow forum members, I'm sure (I've seen some garage background pics.))

Seriously, that setup looks like you could get a lot accomplished on each job. I don't know what you've used in the past, but you're really going to like the idea of standing upright in your van!!! Nice design, well implemented, lotsa room (y)(y)(y)
 

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My famous line is,
"I'll leave this right here, that way I'll remember where I put it".
 

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Your organization is far better than I can expect of myself. They say consistency is key, and I can consistently find everything except what I need at the moment.

More seriously, I'd also suggest the floor and maybe wheel well covers/barrier. I've beat mine up far more than I'm happy about
 

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Are you going to use any of that stuff?
 
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