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KOV, lookin' good!

I looked under the hood today. Seems like something looks different than it did, but I'm not sure.

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Behind the washer fill tube, I see yellow insulation...seems like the rest of the area is black... is something sneaking up in there?

Also, a bit of a drip under the front grill...
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That hose looks a bit leaky....trans cooler ? hoping it's just the clamp... any thoughts?
 

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I have been weight the options very heavily for which van I would like to convert. My gut tells me that I want to use a RAM ProMaster due to its size, cost, ease of conversion.
 

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Installed my flooring today. Used a commercial vinyl and will be floating. View attachment 61556
Interesting you put your finished floor down first. As a (retired) builder, the very last thing I would recommend is installing finished flooring anywhere until the project is finished. It looks good, however, hopefully it will stay that way thru completion.
 

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Got the driver's side Tern Overland window in. Used 3 layers of 1/2 inch plywood laminated to make a stiff, flat frame. Glued that frame inside the ProMaster body and used clamps to pull the body metal flat. Then the window goes in easy and has a flat sealing area.

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Got the driver's side Tern Overland window in. Used 3 layers of 1/2 inch plywood laminated to make a stiff, flat frame. Glued that frame inside the ProMaster body and used clamps to pull the body metal flat. Then the window goes in easy and has a flat sealing area.
Looks good. What size did you use?
 

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1100x450 with 34-44 frame

I found it is critical to force the door sheet metal to be as flat as possible--hence the beefy, stiff and strong frame (3x 1/2 inch plywood = 1.5" thick overall), the glue (SEM Seam Sealer) to hold the bodywork to the frame, and clamping for 24 hours to let the seam sealer cure. When the clamps are removed, the body was held almost flat by the wood frame, and it appears that the gasket of the window is nicely compressed all the way around.

In theory, the screws of the window could clamp the body metal flat against the frame . . . but they are not that beefy and the inner rim is not that strong. Plenty strong enough to compress the gasket, maybe just not strong enough to flatten the body panels and compress the gasket.
 

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Got the passenger side window in. The way I did it might not be ideal. The outside metal is dented in slightly around the window. I do think that the windows have a good seal, since the body metal was pulled flat by my clamping. But there is no way to flatten a curved body panel without some bending. Don't know what I would do differently.

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It's about time!!
Do you have any idea how hard it is to sit on my tush and wait for people to get work done so I can look at pictures?
 

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Well I found my air conditioner quit. No obvious signs of a leak anywhere. Just one more problem on top of problems. Starting to wonder if it was a good idea to purchase the ProMaster....
 

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Worked on my wheel well covers which will support my batteries and water tank. I'm giving serious thought about putting my Webasto heater below my water tank as shown which can only help prevent my water from freezing. I'll drain the tank if I knew I'd be away from the van but just thinking ahead. This spot will also pull cold air from the garage.
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You won't get any appreciable warmth from the Webasto except from its outlet vent. If you draw cold air from under the bed, you will also be drawing warm air under there to replace it. Bringing warm air to a cold location may invite moisture issues. See my build blog as to how I circulate the air above the bed rather than below.
 
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