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I got the ceiling polyiso insulation up and foamed(after getting the correct canister of Great Stuff to go with the pro gun). Just a few more spots and I'm on to the next step - clearing/cleaning the floor and installing Polyiso. There's my doggy Lucas!
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I also picked up the faux tin ceiling panels, which will go on the ceiling above my bed:
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Are you in the colder climate, warmer or temperature traveler?
Could this be a game changer in solar panel attachment?
The plan right now is to drive from Los Angeles to Baltimore/Philadelphia/New York City. Most likely I'll be traveling during the winter. My van is purpose-built to support me and my specific medical needs (immune compromised and a ton of other stuff) in a medically safe bubble to get me across the country to see my loved ones. Long term it'll be a pleasure-mobile for camping, vacations, etc... and I'm based in Los Angeles, so it will be used in all types of weather at all times of the year all over the country. But it's maiden voyage will be to the East Coast in winter.

We're wiring up the solar this weekend, as well as installing the CruiseNComfort 12-volt AC system and might even get to installing the Webasto heater, too, but that's a lot to do for one weekend.

I'm keeping a very informal accounting of the process here: FifVANella
 

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First mounted the panels with Loctite Pemium to Coroplast sheets, then mounted the solar sandwiches to roof with eternabond and more loctite.
Interesting. I went with a relatively simpler approach of straight VHB:

 

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Made a 3d printed a clamp to tug the water bladders into a good position for filling as they empty:

View attachment 67452

I needed a clamp that could securely hold the edge of the fabric water bladder, but of course, I could not punch any holes in it. The clamp has a smooth bump and corresponding divot that gently and securely grab the fabric:

View attachment 67453
This is wicked cool!
This idea has intrigued me since reading CAS's comment here:
Flexible water tanks/bladders or fixed wheel well tank?
 

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Interesting. I went with a relatively simpler approach of straight VHB:

I've been following your website! I am a fan.;-) Reading about your solar install convinced me that the Sunpower panels were right for me, too. Coroplast not only raises them slightly off the roof, but itself is light and aerated, so it hopefully solves some of the airflow issue without raising the panel profile too high on the roof. I have a very low clearance in my apartment building's parking garage, so need to keep everything as snug to the roof as possible.
 

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Took my 2014 PM to the Dealer over in Suffolk VA to get it state inspected this morning. It was a year old demo model with 500 miles on it when I got it just over 5 years ago. 40.8k miles on it now. Passed inspection with no issues! But it will need new tires by next year. Still have the oem Vanco's on it.
 

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Nice and compact installation. Did you ensure all the cable lengths were the same? I recently added a couple of batteries and made sure to keep the cable lengths the same--at the cost of longer cables, which in turn might have made them need to be thicker. Not knowing anything but I read that it would be better if they were all the same length so that the batteries would share the load and charging equally.
 

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I made an impulse buy for some speakers. They were around $40 for the pair so sound quality isn't substantially better, but they do have a better sound than factory. Install was pretty straight forward, but they weren't the exact size so I had to drill new holes for the screws to go through.
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The coaxial design gives you better "high's". When I upgraded mine, the tweeters in the A column sounded too harsh when combined with the tweeters in the coaxial speakers... ended up muting the dash speakers. I used JBLs, and smaller Kenwoods for the living area system.

For casual viewers: top pic = factory, bottom pic = upgrade to coaxial speakers!
 

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Good sounds are important, yes.
But where to put the pie warmer? About 6 minutes in.
Been looking for drawer(s), an interesting take on how this guy did it.
 

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Got the front floor foam panel(and one at rear) in, and danged proud of myself for getting the contour really close. I did cut the little triangle behind driver seat "in"instead of "out," which was annoying...


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Got the front floor foam panel(and one at rear) in, and danged proud of myself for getting the contour really close. I did cut the little triangle behind driver seat "in"instead of "out," which was annoying...


View attachment 67694
 

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Very nice! Just a note that I found it useful to have some "channels" in the polyiso running from the front to back and side to side for wiring. It depends on where much of your electronics will be, but mine is behind the driver's seat and so I found it useful to use the channels to go from there to the back for various things as well as over to the passenger's side as that's where my galley/kitchen is.

Though, in reality, that might be the case only for people like me with dual sliders (i.e., most people can run cabling just above the floor in the walls).

Some people have run water pipes in various locations using such channels too.

i.e., you may not have had to be that "exact" with your polyiso contouring. :)

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