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Covered the entire counter with laminate.

I really didn’t want to do this, but the cheap excuse for BB just couldn’t hold up to the environment. I tried several finishes and they all failed, so I gave up. The laminate doesn’t look as good as the wood did, but at least maybe it will endure. I will post photos when I get better light.
If by BB you mean butcher block, I understand what you mean. I used it for my van, it looked great after many coats of poly and sanding, but it was soo soft that it easily gets scratches and dents in the wood.
 

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2014 136” HR
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In my case, BB means Baltic Birch. My original top, better material, lasted pretty well, but I redesigned and therefore replaced. Now the best I can get is crappy B-C. The wood is so stringy it’s hard to cut and the top ply peels right off.

Butcher block, OTOH, is normally oiled, not hard-finished, and is intended to have knives cutting it.
 

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2020 promasrer 136 HR
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In my case, BB means Baltic Birch. My original top, better material, lasted pretty well, but I redesigned and therefore replaced. Now the best I can get is crappy B-C. The wood is so stringy it’s hard to cut and the top ply peels right off.

Butcher block, OTOH, is normally oiled, not hard-finished, and is intended to have knives cutting it.
Has anyone used the Ikea butcher block counters? I think you can buy them in a couple of different lengths, and they aren't too expensive.
 

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A number of people have, and I’ve not noticed any complaints.

My counter is a Rube Goldberg concoction with three layers and 54 screws. Some parts are 1/2” thick. So I can’t use solid anything.
 

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Has anyone used the Ikea butcher block counters? I think you can buy them in a couple of different lengths, and they aren't too expensive.
I bought mine at Home Depot. I think it was 96"x24" for around or under $225. They have shorter lengths, but that was what I needed for both of my countertops. My only issue is that birch is really soft.
 

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My 2019 has nowhere near that, partly due to Covid, plus moving the last 2-3 months...otherwise it would have a LOT more. As my only vehicle now (sold the 2008 Forester and the 2017 Forester is the wife's) I use the van pretty much every day, locally.

Might be heading to my sister-in-law's in Tulsa in a couple weeks, then take some time to check out SE OK into the Ozarks (haven't been through that area since the 80's) so that should add a couple K more. Really looking forward to getting out again.
 

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Brrrr.... Hummingbirds left, geese and ducks are moving. I'm not so smaart. Got a fresh grandkid, Christmas with kids beats the warm south. maybe.
Ordered a sliding tray for the Dometic 75 CFX3 refer. The Dometic tray only holds 200lbs. Will post Links if it works.
 

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Brrrr.... Hummingbirds left, geese and ducks are moving. I'm not so smaart. Got a fresh grandkid, Christmas with kids beats the warm south. maybe.
Ordered a sliding tray for the Dometic 75 CFX3 refer. The Dometic tray only holds 200lbs. Will post Links if it works.
My ARB was expensive; but trouble free so far

IIRC it takes about 200 lbs & has not been an issue 50QT size ARB
67423
 

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My ARB was expensive; but trouble free so far

IIRC it takes about 200 lbs & has not been an issue 50QT size ARB
Last year placed the cooler on a pallet and strapped it in place. Worked great as a bench, comfortable height. Plenty of air flow underneath. Concern is weight on the slide, less so extended.
Currently reviewing Pull Kitchen
for ideas.
The rear birth under the bed is a candidate for some sliders to organize storage bins.
 

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Made a 3d printed a clamp to tug the water bladders into a good position for filling as they empty:

67452


I needed a clamp that could securely hold the edge of the fabric water bladder, but of course, I could not punch any holes in it. The clamp has a smooth bump and corresponding divot that gently and securely grab the fabric:

67453


The idea is to tug the top edge of the bladder up using 3mm shock cord (bungee) when the bladder is empty. And to also allow the bladder to spread and become shorter as it is filled. The bladders have two ports, and I need to keep the fill ones on top and the drain ones on the bottom. This whole bladder concept is highly experimental . . .

The part was printed in PETG, using 100% infill on my trusty old (but updated) MakerGear M2. I used M4 flat head hardware to get a firm grip on the fabric.

If you have a 3d printer, here are the files:
The design is in OpenSCAD -- if you like math and programming you might like using it -- but it is not at all point-and-click.
 

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I bolted a small intelligent battery maintainer in the van to keep the engine battery topped up. This is plugged into my coach electrical system, which is charged up with the roof solar when traveling or shore power when at home or at a campground.

I intentionally chose a very small unit (only 1.5A charging) as not much charging power is needed (when I'm at home, I have all day/night to charge/maintain the battery and when I'm on the road, the battery would have been already full from the driving).

I'm hoping this will also increase battery longevity as the battery will always be 100% topped up; which is good for lead-acid.

67454
 

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Nice. Is that powered by 120v or 12v?
It's 120v (110v?) AC.

I'm contemplating leaving it powered on all the time (with my coach electrics) so I don't have to think about plugging/unplugging. But I'm not sure if that will confuse the alternator electronics if the engine is running.
 

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It's 120v (110v?) AC. . . .
. . . leaving it powered on all the time . . .
I think my inverter consumes ~55watts (IIRC) just to be powered on. The output of the MOTOPOWER MP00206A 12V 1.5 Amp would be 12*1.5 = 18 watts. Of course, this is negligible if you are plugged into shore power.

But for my system, if I'm off-grid, I'd be using 55W + 18W = 73W (actually a more due to efficiencies and that the battery will be more than 12v when charging) to run the battery maintainer. That is like a whole solar panel! Eeek.

. . . I'm not sure if that will confuse the alternator electronics if the engine is running.
Maybe the 2nd law won't be paying attention and you will get free power!

But seriously, I doubt if you will have any trouble leaving it hooked up all the time, it just might run your coach batteries down faster than you would expect if you are not on shore power.

If you want a higher efficiency solution, you could maybe use something like this:


You would feed it from your coach batteries (inverter does not need to be on), set the output current to ~1/2 amp and output voltage to say 12.8v, that would keep the chassis battery topped off for more like 10 watts rather than my estimated ~78 watts if my inverter is on.

You could use a Schottky diode on the output to make sure that a high alternator voltage did not damage the converter.
 

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My smaller inverter (I have 2; the smaller being 600W) uses a tiny amount of power when idling. According to my Coulomb meter (battery monitor), it uses only 0.35A at 12V when idle.

The little battery maintainer provides a claimed 1.5A when actively charging. And to do so, with inefficiencies, it draws about 2A out of my coach electrics to provide that charging power. i.e., if battery maintaining was all that was going on, my coach system is supplying only 2.5A total. It's even less if the charger got my engine battery to full and it went into float mode. All this is verified with either a clamp ammeter or my battery monitor.

Re: your buck converter idea. I think that's cool and geeky (both concepts appeal to me). But due to mass production, the little battery maintainer was too cheap for me to delve into it further. :D
 
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