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I can't arrange my intake and exhaust pipes in a way that doesn't allow the exhaust to go back into the intake.

Right now the exhaust is sticking 3" beyond the side of the van by the passenger door. The intake is located toward the gas tank. They are fully extended as far apart as I can get them.

All it takes is the slightest breeze and then the exhaust is all blowing back under the van, where it eventually gets sucked into the exhaust. It's 15F and the cold is causing the exhaust to rise much slower and stay down low.

As a result, the heater keeps showing F02 (webasto air top 2000 stc) which basically means the thing wasn't able to start, likely due to incorrect air/fuel ratio and not enough oxygen.

Just when the thing fires on, a breeze comes along and pushes the smoke back under the van and into the exhaust. There's is thick white smoke because the heater internals are likely covered in carbon build up at this point because of it. When the heater does start to burn, black smoke comes out for a few seconds, then a breeze blows it under the van, gets sucked into the exhaust, and F02 error again.

Because of this, I have black smoke...because if the black smoke, it won't start...

Any ideas? I'm pretty sure I need to take it apart and replace the coil/starter thingy and gasket at this point because it's probably covered in carbon soot. Gasoline heater with only about 200hrs at 6200ft. Webasto says it's programmed for 6200ft by default. Webasto also said any fuel additives from pump gas are fine.
 

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Pics of install would help get constructive input. I can't imagine the problem is exhaust gas getting into the intake with the separation you describe. Pretty sure there is something else going on. IIRC 6200' is way more than default.
 

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If F2 all the time it is time to take it out and clean it. I had mine since 2014 and it failed me this year. There is a video on webasto
on how to take it apart. It is really easy. The only thing you need to change is the gasket. They want you to replace the burner set
with the stainless mesh.
If I were to replace this every 3 years it would been a waist money on this expensive heater and I would not of bought it.
They recommend replacement of burner set. But you do not need to replace this expensive piece. I cleaned mine. I will tell you how.

When I took apart mine it was full of carbon. It was easy to clean the heat exchanger. But to clean the burner set you can take
off the burner tube by very carefully bend the little tabs out with a small hobby screw driver. Now that the burner tube is out you
now very very carefully bend only one of the three tabs holding the stainless steel mesh cover. This is where you have to be oh so
gentle.

Carefully pull off the stainless steel mesh. Take the stainless steel mesh and use needle nose plyers and use a propane torch to burn off
the carbon and residue , it will glow white hot instantly . Do about 30 seconds or so.

Now put it all back together. I did not replace the gasket myself but recommend that you do. Mine is back to working flawlessly now.
I can upload pictures if you want if you are going to have any problems.
 

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Pics of install would help get constructive input. I can't imagine the problem is exhaust gas getting into the intake with the separation you describe. Pretty sure there is something else going on. IIRC 6200' is way more than default.
I questioned that, too, but on another forum, a Webasto tech said 6,200. I thought it was 5,200 or less.

I'm having a hard time visualizing OP's issue.
 

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If I were to recommend if to buy a webasto now I would say no. I did the altitude adjustment after this and will see how long it last.
Webasto is a German company and I paid big bucks for this. They failed in my books. I am not paying over 200 Canadian for a burner set
every couple of years. Ridiculous .
 

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Ha, I was about to post this exact cross post from the sprinter forum

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I installed a diesel Webasto Airtop 2000 ST about 2 months ago and have used it for a total of about 10 nights maybe during that time. While the usage has been mostly at high elevation, I did follow the steps to enable high elevation mode.

The night before last, I noticed that it wasn't working quite as efficiently as in the beginning and last night, it totally failed. It turned off at about 5am and wouldn't re fire. I did notice a bunch of black soot got spat out of the exhaust overnight, and just had a bunch of very diesel fuel smelling white smoke coming out of the exhaust as it's trying to fire. It tries to fire 3 times, never does, and gives the ol' F01 error.

Quick video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/gkn9qqJtNCtwp8Hn2

So far, I've tried to make sure the install is correct (does seem that way), checked the fuel pump (it's getting fuel), checked the intake to make sure there wasn't something stuck in it (wasn't) and disconnected the muffler to make sure there wasn't something stuck in the exhaust (doesn't seem that way)

While I did buy it from a dealer, that dealer is in Oregon, so that's not really going to help me too much. Any advice on where to go to from here? I'm thinking I guess I should take it apart and try to clean up the combustion chamber/area to see if it's just soot/carbon build up?

Thoughts? Halp?

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It seems the next step is to do what uncubed posted above.......
 

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Call Webasto Tech Support. Ask for Todd.

1-800-860-7866

I've read several places that in addition to high altitude adjustment, it's important to run it full-bore before shutting down, especially after a night of lower heat. I try to always turn it full-on when I wake up and leave it on high as we have breakfast and prepare to hit the road.

If I were to say mine has performed flawlessly, it would fail the next time I used it, so I won't say that. ;)
 

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Got a ton of good info from them, in no particular order:

1) In order to get mine running again, it's one of 2 steps. Step 1 is to disconnect the fuel line after the pump and redirect it to a jug and try to start again. It's basically being flooded, and it's possible that will eventually lean it out enough to restart. Step 2 will be to take it apart and clean it out

2) IMPORTANT: I did not adjust for high altitude correctly. This cannot be done with the SmartTemp, regardless of what the internet says. I have to find a dealer with a Rheostat and borrow it to the adjustment. Alternatively, if they have the Webasto software and a laptop, it can be done that way. I have to call around the dealers in my area. I bet since I live in Denver, that will be not be that hard. I'll call around in a bit. Worst case, I have to buy a Rheostat for like $70. Or ****, I'll trade someone out for this SmartTemp (Look at number 3)

3) Because I'm at 10k feet, the SmartTemp is essentially useless. I shouldn't use the temperature on the thermostat as a guide, because if it's not too cold outside (call it 30 degrees) and I'm trying to heat my van to 55 degrees, the heater will short cycle and build up soot. It normally wants to be run at full bore, and that's even way way more important at 10k feet, since it's sort of out of operating range. So set it higher and open a window/vent and use a thermometer on the bed or whatever to guide what I should set it to. So it's a 0-100% switch but using 40-80 degrees instead. So basically my van is too insulated haha :) Since I'm essentially using it as a Rheostat, I should have just gotten that to begin with.

4) Whenever you come back from 10k feet back down to 5k, run the heck out of the heater for 20 mins. Set it to 80 degrees, open the windows and vents and let it rip. This will clean out any of that garbage that got built up while you were at 10k feet
 

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OK, now I can stop wishing I had gotten the SmartTemp instead of the rheostat. :)

I view this similarly to air conditioning in humid conditions. You want the unit to have to work. Our problem here is that even this smallest Webasto could handle a much larger volume than we have. Even with all my uncovered glass and exposed metal, the van can get mighty toasty.
 

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I think it's a combination of being used wrong, and also yea, they need to be maintained.

The Espar docs suggest yearly maintenance as well, and people posted in that same thread :(

I forgot, I'm doing one other thing, and it has to do with the OP here as well as posts in that thread. I'll be running the intake quite a bit higher and the exhaust further away. I'm wondering if the exhaust is running into the intake and helping to create the rich mixture.
 

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I mean according to the Webasto tech, it's elevation. So there's a reason we could be getting super varied reports from all over the place.

My heater for example, was not set for high altitude, I thought it was, was being run for short periods of time, and was not getting run hard to be cleaned out. Worst of all worlds and lasted about 80 hours. Having said that, he thinks it should be fixed easily and cheaply.

I found a $60 Rheostat, so I impulse bought that, to make sure mine is adjusted and stays that way. If someone wants my SmartTemp, I'll start the bidding at $60, since they go for $200+ online :)
 

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https://www.expeditersonline.com/forums/threads/espar-reliablity-pros-or-cons.69207/

Also has reports from Webasto users.

Bottom line, these heaters can go for years and years if installed, adjusted and used correctly. We are just newbies learning the hard way by experience.
Yes Agree. I would recommend the heater if the buyer has the information, but the manual says nothing on this.

So I am up in the air on recommendation. When it works I love it, when it quits I hate it. Can not have this quit when its -20c.
This will lead to frozen water lines.

On a side note: The hardest part for me is to take out the heater for disassemble, after that is easy.

Once it is cleaned out and installed it will fire right up. So far so good. Will post in future if or when it fails.
 

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Concerning the insulation. There is a calculator- a member, GaryBIS, has on his site. We should insulate for what we want the heater to do at the coldest temperatures we plan to heat at. I chose 32º and wanted the Diesel Espar to idle along all night. I used Gary’s calculator then stopped insulating when I got to his recommendation for heat loss. I have had the opportunity to test it and it seems perfect. I have spent some cold nights up near Denver and Utah- North rim area and have had no issues- Yet. Perhaps the Wabasto gas really needs this calculation.

https://www.builditsolar.com/References/Calculators/VanHeatLoss/VanHeatLoss.htm
 

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This thread has caused me to do some serious thinking. Spreadsheets give me heartburn, but I appear to have serendipitously stumbled upon a sweet spot for the insulation. I may be closer to done than I thought I was.

RD, don't forget to run it full-bore regularly.
 
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