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DirtRider: You don't have to believe me, but in that diagram, item 1 is the engine mount on the right side (passenger side) of the vehicle. Normally, Left and Right are defined when you are sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward. I don't know why the accompanying parts lists the bolts as "L" side. Original poster's photo show engine sagging on the driver's side.
 

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MMXVI - L2H2 in Indiana
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That's a bummer but a lot of mechanics that don't work at a dealer (and some that do) never know these things. One time use bolts and clips are more common on vehicles now.
OEM's are trying hard to have their vehicles repaired only at their dealerships plus most have to be. At least for calibrations and ADAS scans, even from removing a mirror or bumper cover.
The irony here is that there’s been way too many stories of RAM dealerships not wanting to touch Promasters, even more so if any modifications had been done to them
 

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2016 136 HT Gasser
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According to the info @phil provided there's a mopar kit for pre-10/23/15 build dates that includes an upgraded (more robust?) mounting bracket and isolator in addition to the single use bolts. Of course, my build date is 10/20/15.
Does anybody know if any of these mount failures can be attributed to the older version of the bracket or are they all because of reusing the bolts? Seems like a no brainer to retrofit if the original bracket is at all suspect. The accessibility of all the relevant fasteners comes into play but from my brief reading it appears that removing the driver's side headlight assembly provides sufficient access.
Thoughts?
 

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2014 hightop 3500
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Apparently these are "TTY" torque-to-yeild bolts. They are common in modern engines, particularly head bolts. I really don't understand why they would be used in an engine mount but I don't get a lot of things really.
You are supposed to torque them so tight they go beyond the resilient stretch and yield. That is, they get stretched permanently.
S'posed to chuck em when you take it apart.
I once reused honda crv headbolts on my own car repairs. The engine went another 100k before my daughter overheated it and killed the poor ol' car. Could have been related to my mechanical fiddling, not sure.
Anyway, don't do it on a customer car for sure.

Thanks for the heads up on this issue,

Russ
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Would you mention their name? I'd like to know it in case we ever have trouble in their neighborhood.
Tom,
Mac Haik . . . we think they are a larger, multi-city organization . . . hey, when are we going to rendezvous again?
WInston
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I looked up the bolts in a program I have and they were about $6 each. I would only trust the OEM bolts in this application
We did the math: 3 x $6 = $5,200.
 

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Tom,
. . . . . . hey, when are we going to rendezvous again?
WInston
Winston,
Tentative plans so far are to leave late June, early July for Michigan - Sleeping Bear area. Then UP, Eagle River, Wi, Oshkosh Air Show and probably out west to Yellowstone NP, Glacier NP, etc. Haven't decided return route yet.

Tom
 

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Our first expedition of the year hasn’t started well. Southbound - - just north of Jackson, Mississippi - - we were on the phone confirming a campground reservation 20 miles south at Le Fleurs Bluff State Park - - when we were suddenly confronted with a rapid, repetitive banging/ratcheting noise. Our preliminary inspection revealed that we’d lost our engine!

View attachment 94765

Literally, but not completely. The driver’s side engine/transmission mount had failed and the engine was ‘dangling’ - - held in position by the passenger side mount, drive train, and who knows what else. The three lateral mounting bolts had sheared, leaving their broken studs visible in the engine/transmission housing while a fourth, a vertical bolt - - remained positioned upwardly above the engine/transmission - - having ripped free of, and damaging, the associated engine mount bracket.

View attachment 94766


View attachment 94767

The mechanic who worked on our problem handed us one of the removed, sheared studs . . . and we instinctively inquired: “How could this happen?”. The mechanic, redirecting his gaze toward us, asked: “Has anyone worked on this transmission?” “Yes,” we responded, “the transmission was replaced three years ago.” The mechanic smiled, “that’s your answer.”

We don’t know for certain what the shop did, three years ago, when they replaced the transmission. But our current mechanic believes he knows - - that shop reused the mounting bolts in the face of Dodge’s installation instructions which state in the most uncertain terms, at least three times, do not reuse. Here is the text of Dodge’s manual:

CAUTION

This CAUTION is related to the 2014 through 2020 model year VF ProMaster vehicles equipped with the 3.6L engine and 62TE transmission to emphasize the importance of REPLACING and TORQUING the ONE TIME USE fasteners that secure the LEFT transmission mount bracket to the transmission.

The fasteners used for the 2014 through 2020 model year VF ProMaster LEFT transmission mount bracket are of the single usage type and MUST not be reused. Once these fasteners have been torqued, they MUST be replaced upon removal. The torque of the fasteners are of a higher value than torques for a similar sized fastener. Verify all mounting bracket torque values, refer to . . . .

(Photos Omitted)

CAUTION: DO NOT reuse the transmission mount bracket bolts. Failure to use NEW bolts may result in bracket bolt failure.

Seven days later, we’re back on the road. And considerably lighter in the pocket book to the tune of $5,200. Why so much, we inquired of the Service Rep? “Well,” he responded, “ if you were an automobile, we would have charged you the “car rate”, but since you’re a truck, we charged you the commercial truck rate of $185/hour.” And then there were the parts . . . with the funny story that we consulted with our son, the mechanic, when this shop indicated they were having problems obtaining certain parts. So son Timothy obtained the critical bracket and bolts and overnighted them to us . . . it turns out that there was an error in the Dodge manual and this shop had ordered the wrong parts anyway. We’d still be sitting there but for our proactive intervention. Then there was that $1,300+ engine wiring harness . . . . did we need it? Timothy says “probably not” . . . but, then, we didn’t want to be sitting here another month, so not faulting the shop for ordering and installing it.

The Service Rep with whom we principally dealt was very sympathetic and helpful; the “mechanic” seemed very capable and knew his stuff . . . and, importantly and relevant to the issue we raised last summer of ‘getting help/service on-the-road when you need it’ . . . this shop immediately inspected our vehicle and got the parts “coming” . . . when all parts were “in hand”, they promptly turned their attention to our vehicle and got us out of there. Our only sadness was the dealership manager who - - when someone ‘ratted’ on us and revealed that we were sleeping in our van in their parking lot (while awaiting the parts), forbade this arrangement forcing us to incur another $70/night expense.

So, if you have this vintage ProMaster and have any transmission work performed . . . be forewarned.
I would be interested to know how many miles were on your PM when the transmission failed and how many miles are on it now. What is your understanding of why the transmission failed?

I'm in the Atlanta metro area and hope my van never needs anything done at a dealership. All of the dealers seem to be booked a month out and you have to take your van there and leave it to get in line for service. It seems they just don't have one clue about customers and how to satisfy them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Tentative plans so far are to leave late June, early July for Michigan - Sleeping Bear area.
You do remember we're on Little Point Sable (with the best sand dunes in Michigan) about 2 hours south of Sleeping Bear . . . don't you? :~)
 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I would be interested to know how many miles were on your PM when the transmission failed and how many miles are on it now. What is your understanding of why the transmission failed?
About 96K when the transmission failed and 158K now. The 'repair guy' said he found very little transmission fluid in the transmission. There was no sign at the 'failure location' of any oil spillage, nor was there any real evidence that transmission fluid had been dripping/leaking from the transmission. Based on these observations, our assumption is that we were losing fluid over an extended period of time - - and, importantly, we might have averted the costly failure had the transmission fluid been inspected (replaced?) at the prescribed 60,000 mile point - - an inspection that was apparently overlooked.
 
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