Ram Promaster Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
2014 136” HR
Joined
·
4,823 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The wall panel has detached from the vertical rib behind the slider on my 136" HR. Some of the others are detaching. It is unclear both to me and to the body shop guy how important this is. He is concerned that an attempted cure could be worse than the disease and I understand where he is coming from as we played with it together.

I will soon be installing the largest windows I can fit into all four panels, including the door, so the "temporary" ribs are irrelevant, but that could potentially make the others more relevant?

We looked at a new vehicle on the lot and its ribs were firmly attached. My vehicle, though recently purchased, was made October '13. Any insight whether these ribs detach with time or whether mine was a bit sloppy?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
886 Posts
You talking about the goop they use to glue body panels to ribs?

You would think a body shop would know what that is. Maybe some Sikaflex product?

Dealer might have it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
604 Posts
I'd expect that the adhesive they used would lose its strength over time and release, but not after a year! Not sure what the product they use is. It looks like it almost is applied as a foam and then hardens some.

I'd complain to the dealer the next time you have it in? They probably have the same on something similar on hand.

There are plenty of products you could use yourself if you choose that solution. I thick the key would be to make sure you use something that doesn't harden completely, which stays flexible. Sitkaflex (already mentioned), 3M's 5200 (Home Depot carries it) would probably work well too. The biggest part of using these products is the cleaning/prep before applying it. If surfaces are prepared correctly the bond will fail.

My guess would be that's why the bond failed? Lack of proper prep work. Yours is a early model and the procedures may not have been followed to the letter?

It will be interesting to see if others have this problem too. But with so many of us insulating and paneling the walls and roof we might never know it's happening....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
That 5200 is some "serious" sealant. It's used extensively in marine applications and is a real bitch to break the bond (when applied correctly).
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,962 Posts
I just squirted a little Tuff Stuff insulating foam behind mine when I moved them over about 6" for the windows I put in. It seemed to hold fine but they've been covered up for a few months now so who knows?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
You can use 3M 4200 which is a faster curing polysulfide caulk than the 5200. In addition, 3M makes the 4000 which is more UV resistant. Prep is everything, the actual caulking is fast.
 

·
Registered
2014 136” HR
Joined
·
4,823 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I would not be able to prep. Probably couldn't even get the existing caulk out. We're talking 1/8"? clearance between rib and panel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
604 Posts
I would not be able to prep. Probably couldn't even get the existing caulk out. We're talking 1/8"? clearance between rib and panel.
Depending on what you choose to use, prep may be just wiping the metal surfaces with alcohol or something like 3M's general purpose adhesive cleaner. The main idea is getting any oils and dirt off of the surfaces before applying the caulking/adhesive. Of course use whatever the manufacturer recommends.

You could probably slip a rag or one of those cheap foam brushes into the gap to apply the cleaner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,001 Posts
I would not be able to prep. Probably couldn't even get the existing caulk out. We're talking 1/8"? clearance between rib and panel.
If the problem is not simply cosmetic and really needs to be fixed for structural or functional reasons, I would ask dealer to fix under warrantee before attempting anything myself. I'd worry that anything I'd use as a fix, if it didn't work, would serve as an excuse for RAM why they can't fix it. And they would have a valid point because if the gap is that small, removing strong adhesives may be next to impossible.

If the dealer says it doesn't need to be fixed I'd try to get it in writing, although I seriously doubt they will.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
726 Posts
I would try to get it fixed for sure, if it was purely cosmetic, why they would put them in the first place? They sure don't look good!
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top