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2021 Promaster 2500 high roof 136wb in white
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
53 weeks into my build and I am finally completing my bed/dinette base, the 18mm baltic birch plywood for the base will be screwed down over the left drawer, the other 4 areas will be hinged with slam latches. Should I consider routing holes in this plywood for ventilation?
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Van #2 2021 EXT
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Great Question;

I did not on my 2018 or 2021 builds. However I believe it is conditional;

1) Enviromental Conditions
2) Use
3) What type of Mattress
4) Etc

A few years ago we spend more cash on a Tempur-Pedic king size bed that was made up of a 12” thick memory & multiple foam mattresses & “solid” remote adjustable bed bases.

When I asked the “salesguy” about the solid base & “ventilation” he educated me on the matter. If I were to belueve the tech, depending upon the mattress it might vent from the sides. I was told that is how we can have a solid base under our Tempur-Pedic.

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So is this something you can do later if needed? Or is there an issue cutting in vent holes now? If you do cut in holes, I would think 3” hole saw & an eased router’d edge both sides would be a nice finish in plywood. I used that in holes in my 2021 build & really likes it (even for electrical pass thru’s I router’d both sides).

Nice Work on the Bed Cabinet !! BTW 😁👍
 

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Van #2 2021 EXT
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Incase you go with holes & router’d edges both sides;

I used Milwaukee “Hole Dozer”

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Then cleaned up the hole with “Diablo” sand paper;
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Then router’d both sides “slightly”;
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Warning RV8R Blooper;

I spent a lot of time on this cabinet face (basically 8 holes & lined up table saw cuts, then cleaned up & router’d both sides);

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Only to a month or so later, remove it once Mrs. RV8R found storage bins to her liking. 😳. Sometimes I really wonder about myself 🤪

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2014 136” HR
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This is not a yes-no question. I have 4” foam on solid ply. Seven years' extensive use, no issue. HOWEVER, we generally avoid humid environment, most of the area under the bed is solid storage with some thermal inertia. If I ever see a problem, I will drill holes, but don’t think that will happen.

Check out Hypervent, which can be used to ventilate.
 

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2021 Promaster 2500 high roof 136wb in white
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I already purchased a 4" thick tri fold on Amazon that is almost the right size, I am hoping to alter it to fit my dinette configuration. I made 1/4" templates for my assorted holes after the mess I made with a hole saw, I used step bits to make the rough holes and cleaned them up with the template and router.
I am doing the final build out of the bed in place, then I will tear it all out and put a nice finish on 100% of the surfaces, I really dont want to go back in after it is completed and start altering things.
I am sure extra ventilation could not hurt and using 18mm BB plywood for the decking I should not have to worry about compromising the weight bearing capacity. Does anyone have a photo of what they did for ventilation?
 

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I've never seen that before, that's a great idea, clamping sandpaper to the holesaw.
😁👍

Necessity is the Mother of Invention ,,,

After looking around for sanding drums to replace the one I burnt out & coming up short I finally source sme the the price was like 😳😳

So, I purchased some sandpaper & a hose clamp ,,, the trick is to get;

1) The sandpaper
2) The hose-clamp
3) The drill

All turning in the same direction

Better to have a variable speed drill & “sneak up on it”.
 

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2017 136” HR
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I already purchased a 4" thick tri fold on Amazon that is almost the right size, I am hoping to alter it to fit my dinette configuration.
Do I understand correctly that you don’t have a fixed bed, but a dinette to bed kind of setup? If that’s the case I wouldn’t worry about ventilating the plywood, since the bed doesn’t stay made 24/7.
 
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2021 Promaster 2500 high roof 136wb in white
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Do I understand correctly that you don’t have a fixed bed, but a dinette to bed kind of setup? If that’s the case I wouldn’t worry about ventilating the plywood, since the bed doesn’t stay made 24/7.
That is correct, it is convertible from dinette to bed with the table top completing the base for the mattress. There will be 2 drawers under the bed that are accessible with the back doors open, more gaps there for airflow.
 

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That is correct, it is convertible from dinette to bed with the table top completing the base for the mattress. There will be 2 drawers under the bed that are accessible with the back doors open, more gaps there for airflow.
I’m building a dinette to bed as well. I’m this case I do not believe you need to worry about airflow below your cushions.
 
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