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Discussion Starter #1
I should have done this a lot sooner, but better late than never!
All items have been purchased and awaiting final install/hookup, so I'm really just looking for tweaks/suggestions that will improve the system and avoid my van catching on fire :)

Here are some component details not captured on the attached diagram:
Batteries - 3 @ Universal Battery UB121000 12v 100AH, Wired in Parallel
Battery Doctor - 150amp Isolator
Inverter - Vertamax Puresine 1500w
Solar Charger - Renogy Commander 40amp MPPT
Battery Monitor - Renogy MT-50 Tracer
DC Panel - Bluesea 8 position

DC Loads - Truckfridge 130, water pump, led lights, USB ports, CO/LP detector, maxxfan, Webasto
AC Loads - Laptop, Elec Toothbrush, Nutribullet

FYI - the reason I'm running the DC panel off the solar charger is so that I can use the Renogy Tracer to monitor load consumption.

Any benefit to a master shutoff switch? It seems like I could just turn off the DC loads with the solar controller and turn off the inverter and not have any loads draining the batteries.

I opted not to install BUS bars because as far as I know I can just connect to the battery terminals and I have three batteries so I have plenty.

Also, I'm not interested in a shore power hookup at this time.

Thanks in advance!
 

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- the reason I'm running the DC panel off the solar charger is so that I can use the Renogy Tracer to monitor load consumption.
Correct battery monitoring requires that all battery charging sources and all battery loads be monitored. Your most significant charging source (the alternator) and your most significant load (the inverter) are not being monitored by the Renogy Tracer. The Tracer seems to be necessary for programming the Commander . . . but as a "battery monitor" its functionality is limited. You will get proper battery voltage measurements (which we presume the Tracer will 'interpret' and report as a State of Charge) and you will get good statistics on Solar Panel charging. But overall charging will be inaccurate as will overall load power consumed.

As we're 'big' on monitoring our battery, we'd recommend that you get an independent battery monitor (with a shunt) connected to the battery and treat the Tracer as a remote solar panel control/programming device.
 

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To add on to what Winston said, the Load port on the charge controller is limited to 20 amps. From what I see listed, depending on what you have running at the time, you might go over 20 amps. My webasto dual top (probably different unit than you have) ramps up to full during startup and shutdown and can draw 18 amps by itself. Not sure if your unit will do that or not, however the Renogy will disconnect loads if you hit 21 amps. If it the webasto does ramp up to full, if the fridge is cycling, and all you lights you might overload your controller and it will shut off your DC loads.

I'd double check your webasto (or maybe someone that has a webasto and battery monitor can chime in) to see if it pulls that much current.
 
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IMO, put all of your grounds through a shunt, and then get something that monitors that. For me, the charge controller does that. Sounds like yours might do that also.

Here is my electrical diagram with the shunt in it: https://goo.gl/jP7n5v

I didn't end up doing the shore power hookup or the charger
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input folks! Definitely going to look into a shunt and battery monitor. Although, I did purposely oversize my solar and battery capacity so that I don't need to worry too much about running the batteries too far. 300w of solar and 300AH of batteries. I did some poking around and sounds like it would take another $200 to do what you guys suggested. Sound about right? Also, thanks nebulight. The 20amp limit on the solar controller's DC output will probably be close to max draw when using heater, fridge and water pump simultaneously. No big deal to wire the DC loads straight off the batteries instead.
 
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