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Use 1200W Induction top with Battery Isolator

3K views 28 replies 8 participants last post by  Kenny 
#1 · (Edited)
After seventy-some years, I got bored and converted to a camper.
No previous experience including electrical, carpentry but I made.

Two 12V 100W solar panels parallel connected.
Two 12V 100Ah AGM parallel connected.

Even on 800W use, the Inverter cut off after a few minutes.
Try to connect Isolator to complement while using a hot plate.

Wanderer has no connect point.
Recently found the cable is not big enough, some say need 2G or 1G.

Any advice is appreciated.

(2022-05-07) Thanks everybody.
After advise, changed 4G wire to 2G with 125A fuse.
Also main fuse box 10G wire have 20A fuse.
Still not enough to operate 1200W induction cook top.
Will check all voltage level. And put the result next week. (out of town)

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#2 ·
How old is your battery? I found from my previous setup using two old batteries(connected as parallel), one of the batteries was bad and my voltage drop fast and inverter so working due to low voltage.

Also what kind of fuse are you using? Some people are experiencing voltage drop with cheap resettable fuse.
I'm assuming your ground is the same size gauge as the the corresponding wire.
If you have multimeter, you should check the voltage at different part of the system and see if you have any major voltage drop.
 
#3 ·
Yep, voltage drop somewhere. I had a similar problem caused by degraded AGMs. They go bad if you don't/can't fully charge them often. In addition to the previous suggestions, 4G wires feeding your 1500W inverter seem too small. Check your inverter's manual for recommendations. My 2000W calls for 2-0G. All your negative wires should be the same size as their associated positive wires.

Your (?) isolator wire gets connected to your coach batteries, same as your inverter, solar, and DC fuse block. Folks often use intermediate + and - busbars to accommodate all those connections. Lastly, the isolator won't help the situation unless the engine is running.
 
#6 ·
Pre-check Test result
1. Using only an 800W induction level, it stops about 2 minutes after the start.
Start 13.7V, and voltage falling fast to triggered fuse at 11.9V
The 1500W inverter makes AC 119V.
After disconnecting the inverter, the battery voltage back to 13.5V in a minute.
2. Test with various AC tools under 400W, all work fine.
3. Disconnect all the lines and check the battery voltage.
13.4V and 13.5V changed after 30 minutes to 13.3V, 12.7 each.
So the battery looks good to retain its power (Renogy 100Ah AGM x 2)
and the connection is good before and after.

1500W Pure sine inverter PS1005

I guess battery power is not enough, and try adding DC-DC charger 40A
and Rover 30A controller (It was Wanderer 30A PWM)

Add a diagram and if you find wrong, please let me know to correct it.
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#7 · (Edited)
How is the inverter connected to the battery?
Also how old is your battery?
Are you using ANL fuse on the inverter?
I'm running two 6v 215ah connecting in series so it's about the same ah as yours. I use my instant pot all the time which draw 750w all the time and no issue. We also use the induction stove a few times in under 1000w setting and no issue. So either a internal resistance some where it(cable connection point, fuse, etc), bad battery or possible bad inverter??

Maybe try charging each battery individually first so they get good charge, sometime when connecting in parallel, the weaker battery will trick the charger to think its full.
 
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#8 ·
Hi,
The inverter dropping out at 11.9 volts seems kind of high.
According to its manual, it should not drop out until 10 volts.

Can you measure the voltage right at the inverter terminals to make sure there is not a lot of voltage drop from the battery to the inverter?

Similar to what Uvan reports, I have essentially the same 1500 watt inverter as yours from GoWise and have run a small microwave with an actual consumption of 996 watts run from 2 flooded lead acid golf cart batteries with the batteries at 80% state of charge. The voltage drops down to 11.2 volts, but it hangs in there. I have run this combination for as long as 10 minutes with no cutout. Your two AGMs should do better than my FLAs as long as they are in descent shape.

Gary
 
#9 ·
I agree, 2x100Ah should run an 800W appliance with no problem, as long as your batteries are charged and in good shape. The one battery dropping from 13.5V to 12.7V in 30min is a little suspicious. You might have one bad battery. You could have them both tested at a battery dealer, Interstate or the equivalent.

You want to start any testing with two fully-charged batteries. The best way to do that is one at a time, with a automotive battery charger on the AGM setting. Have yours ever been fully charged? AGMs need that on a regular basis to stay healthy.

Replacing your solar charger and isolator won't help with voltage drop. At best, it would only charge your batteries a little faster, maybe. Find out what's causing the voltage drop. If it's not bad batteries, it could be a loose connection somewhere. I've experienced both.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for everybody's advice. Here is my final circuit diagram.
As you already knew, I have very little basic knowledge about electricity.
Some parts of the drawing are not done yet, waiting for parts to come.
Before I tear down the previous connection, I make sure how to set it correctly.

For battery check, I will disconnect one full day and then find how much voltage drops.

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#11 ·
Disconnect two AGM batteries and left more than 30 hours.
Start voltage both 13.6V, after 12.84V, 12.82V respectively.
So up to now, the thing I will change is the wire to inverter 4G (it came with the machine) to 2G
and size down the fuse to 150A.
Inverter produces AC 119V on both ends. Connections seem all tight.
Batteries look good enough and constantly top off from a solar charger.

I'm still not sure why it triggered trip fuse at 11.9V.
After I change to 2G wire, then I'll ask for advice again.
 
#12 ·
Disconnect two AGM batteries and left more than 30 hours.
Start voltage both 13.6V, after 12.84V, 12.82V respectively.
So up to now, the thing I will change is the wire to inverter 4G (it came with the machine) to 2G
and size down the fuse to 150A.
Inverter produces AC 119V on both ends. Connections seem all tight.
Batteries look good enough and constantly top off from a solar charger.

I'm still not sure why it triggered trip fuse at 11.9V.
After I change to 2G wire, then I'll ask for advice again.
Wire sizes are listed such as

4 awg
2 awg
0 awg (also called 1/0)
00 awg (also called 2/0)
0000 awg (also called 4/0)

What you need is 00 or also called 2/0, not 2 awg. You could also use 0000 also know as 4/0.

With an entry level battery like a renogy, it will take 4 of them to keep up with that kind of load.

__
 
#13 ·
On the solar charge controller, the rover is actually not as good for this application as the wanderer.

If possible, swap it out for a bogart SC 2030.

__

From the batteries to the blue sea fuse block - consider to swap in 6 awg wire instead of 10 awg.

Also - try to not buy anything else from Renogy. To make a 12 volt system run a heavy inductive load, pretty much everything has to be perfect.
 
#22 ·
Over the weekend I do some experiments. Then when I come back to post what I have done, there is this big discussion. I really appreciate everybody explaining their experience. It seems there is no one solution for every case, especially for my bare basic layout.

While I did try to run induction hot top at 1000W level, it tripped off at 11.5V. I did it again with the engine running and connected via isolator, and it still tripped about the same level. I read Renogy AGM batteries are not happy with the bulk charge from the alternator. That’s why I want try to run with DC-DC charger. Will it work? I’m not sure yet.

Two Renogy 100Ah AGM batteries, fully charged on solar power and additional current from Alternator are not working with the induction plate up to now. 1500W Pure sine wave inverter from Power Tech-On PS1005 is supposed to be tripped off at 10VDC but tripped off at 11.5VDC. (This model is also sold under the name of GoWise) Maybe Inverter or trip fuse, one of them is not good? The inverter produces AC 119V. I tried the same with a 1000W coffee pot with more or less the same result.

I’m still using 4G wire from battery to inverter (will change when I got 2G wire)
Here is a beginner’s question. All manufacturer sell their equipment with 4G wire means 4G wire is good enough for the purpose. This inverter and Renogy DC-DC charger have all kinds of protection, such as high voltage, low voltage, and thermal protection. Is this mean you don’t need a fuse, other than having an extra layer of protection? (I will keep the circuit breaker nonetheless)

Because of AGM battery’s characteristics, additional current from the DC-DC charger may not helpful. I heard someone using the lead-acid battery is actually working with an alternator running.

I learned so may in these few days with your advice. But still not accomplished any yet. Hope I’ll get some results soon. Thank you for everybody's comment.
 
#25 ·
BTW - for safety reasons, it will be somewhat better if you route the power from the solar charge controller into the fuse block instead of directly to the battery.

Using the diagram from post #10, if the (+) wire going from the solar charge controller were to accidentally fall out and touch something else, it could result in a short directly from the battery pack and make some pretty big sparks. This would continue until the wire at least partly vaporizes. I can tell you from experience that it can be a spectacular event.

If the wire is routed through the fuse block, and a short happens, the fuse will blow and nothing else exciting will happen.
 
#28 ·
Two things: 1) you are right, the electrical system is not "off" and safe to work on until you disconnect your batteries AND everything actively charging them (solar, etc). 2) rather than battery damage, it's solar charge controllers** that may be damaged if you disconnect them from your batteries without disconnecting them from your solar panels first. However, once you disconnect the panels, the controller is inactive and you won't need to disconnect it from the batteries. This is why it's a good idea to have both a solar panel disconnect switch and a battery disconnect switch. And don't forget to disconnect/unplug shorepower if you also have a converter charging your batteries.

** not all solar controllers are damaged by this. My Bogart PWM isn't, but I believe Victron's MPPT is and maybe others.
 
#29 ·
Hi, Lola. Received DC-DC charger and Rover. While awaiting other cable parts coming, my daughter took the camper for a trip. I have all the equipment and parts ready but the camper is not here. I think I am obliged to say what kind of result coming out of it but have to wait some more time. I will let you know when my daughter comes back. Thanks to all the other people who gave advice.
 
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