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Hi All,

I'm reposting mwsheets question re Uconnect run off house battery here in hope to get some more traffic as I'm also keen to get some feedback.

Best,

Dave

Uconnect 5.0 to a House battery
Hi all you smart people out there,

I'm hoping someone has looked into this and might have an idea how it works.

I would like to use the Uconnect 5.0 as a radio when my vehicle is not on and would like to have it connected to my house bank of batteries.(I don't need it to switch back and forth between battery banks, just stay on my house battery system.)

In the upfitters guide it alludes to this. Saying the connection is the upfitters responsibility and that the uconnect must be suitably isolated from the vehicle power supply.

I have not removed the radio yet to see how it is wired or how it is connected to the ignition system.

Has anyone tried this yet and if so how did it work?

I am concerned that even after doing this the radio will still try to power down after 20 minutes or so(Yes you can try to adjust some settings about powering down on the uconnect but it still shuts off unless you leave the key in the ignition which powers way to many other things in the vehicle).

I'm also concerned with creating all sorts of gremlins in the electrical/operating system that I haven't thought of. For example once isolated from the vehicle power supply will the use of the back up camera be affected?

I can always just use a separate car stereo wired to the rear speakers with a source selector switch but if connecting the uconnect to the aux power works I'd much rather keep it streamlined.

If I do this I'm assuming I will lose the ability to have the uconnect turn on and off with the ignition. I'm okay with that but is there a way around that?

I asked my dealer about it and they had no clue what the BC3 package was or that you even have a rear speaker output let alone that it talks about an aux battery to power the uconnect. I asked Chrysler and they told me to talk to the dealer. Maybe if someone knows the appropriate contact in Chrysler I could get more of an answer.

Best,

Matt
 

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Wouldn't it be a lot simpler to just hit the on button every 20 mins you don't need the key to be on to operate the radio that way.
 

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I have the 3.0 (cheaper/Single DIN) radio but can help with the wiring?

There's a post on here with a couple of pics of the 5.0, both the diagram of wiring on the back of the radio and the actual plug. http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14537
Post# 74

Common to both:

Yellow & Yellow w/black stripe are front L & Front L ground
Purple & Purple w/black stripe are front R & Front R ground
Orange & Orange w/black stripe are rear L....
Green & Green w/black stripe are rear R....

The 3.0 has two plugs. The big one has the speaker wires and these:

Red w/yellow stripe is Constant 12 volts
Black is ground
Smaller gauge Blue is Ignition (switched)
Smaller gauge Yellow w/gray stripe is for Dimmer

The second plug has five wires: must be CANBUS (my guess) and the USB port(s). I never knew if both the USB ports would work with the radio as I never actually tried the one by cigarette lighter port. I used the one tucked to the right of the steering wheel. When I connected my new radio I didn't use any wires from the second smaller plug or the USB port either.
Red
White
Green
2 Black

The picture of the 5.0 plug looks to have all of the above wires in it, plus one more, white w/a stripe.


"I would like to use the Uconnect 5.0 as a radio when my vehicle is not on and would like to have it connected to my house bank of batteries.(I don't need it to switch back and forth between battery banks, just stay on my house battery system.)

In the upfitters guide it alludes to this. Saying the connection is the upfitters responsibility and that the uconnect must be suitably isolated from the vehicle power supply."



I don't see why you shouldn't be able to run your own wires from your house battery to power the radio.

1 - You'd need to swap the ignition source wire, fused of course. This "powers" up the radio. My guess is the 20 minute function comes from the PM's computer, not the radio, but once you've moved the power to your house battery it won't matter if it does.

2- The question would be if you have to move the Constant source wire also? I'd guess that keeps the memory going but not sure it it actually supplies the "main" power to the radio. My bet is it does. If so it will have to be swapped too.



"I'm also concerned with creating all sorts of gremlins in the electrical/operating system that I haven't thought of. For example once isolated from the vehicle power supply will the use of the back up camera be affected?"


I'd just try one wire at a time and see what happens. I don't think it will cause any problems with the backup camera. That should just be an input the radio senses power/signal from and switches display sources to display it.

BUT: with these heavily computerized vehicles you never know til you try.
 

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If in fact the stereo does operate with an ignition wire at the stereo then you should be able to cut that wire and feed the stereo power through a manual switch.
You would need a switch that interrupts any back feed into the vehicle while it's on. Or you could use a relay but the extra draw of the realy on your battery could be a bad thing.
 

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Has to have the CANBUS trigger to operate. 12 volts alone will not power it up.
 

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I was thinking that it might be canbus but wasn't sure... perhaps dealer can look into it and there's a way to disable the 20 timeout?
 

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Drat, I was really hoping the canbus wasn't involved but that would've been too simple. The dealer is pretty clueless, I had to spoon feed them the fix to turn on the rear stereo and they didn't seem willing to look into the radio aux power issue at all.

MakeVX73 thanks for breaking down the wiring and Dave thanks for reposting this.
 

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What are you trying to accomplish by doing this? If all you want us to listen to a radio or CD player why not just buy another one and put it in the back wired into your house battery. Radios are cheap and you can even pick them up for nothing many places. I have a few I'd be happy to give you!

My uconnect 5 powers up for 20 minutes without the key anytime I hit the power button. If you modify the radio wiring you most likely will lose more than you gain as the radio sets lots of parameters on the dash. It has to be connected to the canbus to do all it does I would think.
 

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What are you trying to accomplish by doing this? If all you want us to listen to a radio or CD player why not just buy another one and put it in the back wired into your house battery. Radios are cheap and you can even pick them up for nothing many places. I have a few I'd be happy to give you!

My uconnect 5 powers up for 20 minutes without the key anytime I hit the power button. If you modify the radio wiring you most likely will lose more than you gain as the radio sets lots of parameters on the dash. It has to be connected to the canbus to do all it does I would think.

Keeponvanning that's exactly it!

It's silly to have two radios and two sets of speakers in this thing because it automatically shuts itself off. You are correct, there are lots of different ways to deal with this. I could stop what I'm doing and keep hitting the power button, or I could have a different radio set up with its own speakers or I could rig a source selector switch so I only have the one set of speakers in the rear and they are wired to two radios.

I'd just rather have it set up with the one radio to control 4 speakers, no redundancy and streamlined.

And it's curious that the engineers of this thing thought to put in and label a place for aux battery power to the radio but not a way to adjust the system to stop powering the radio off.

I agree with you, the above solutions are seeming to be easier and will probably end up being what I will do but I asked the question in case someone knew of how to do it the other way.
 

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There MAYBE a parameter for the "timeout" function. You'd have to take it to the dealer. BTW, when I was there last week for a few updates, they no longer physically have to plug in the vehicle. They use a WiFi dongle that plugs into the OBD II. No wires... Takes about a minute for their system to find the vehicle and parse out the various CANBUS devices.
 

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I guess you have nothing to do but start cutting wires and see what happens. Maybe if you get a new power plug (I think it's a standard VW) you could connect it to the radio and try different powering options without cutting into the factory wiring harness. Might even be a wire you can leave connected to still be able to control the dash inputs!

Good luck you're entering the Promaster's twilight zone here, it seems!
 

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That makes sense. If the uconnect will turn on for 20 mins without the key then obviously it's powered all the time and the data connection is what really controls its operation. Connecting it to another power source would seem to be useless unless, of course, it will work like a normal radio if the data feed is not connected. Then again, it may not work at all without the data connection?

This exercise is a good example why no one should get the uconnect but rather choose an aftermarket head unit that will do what they want it to do, not what RAM thinks it should do.

If my Promaster didn't already have the uconnect when I bought it off the dealers lot, I would never have ordered one with it. It's overpriced and underpowered in my opinion.
 

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Anyone have an update on this mystery? The biggest problem with the radio turning off is if you are using the bluetooth to your phone. If you dont get to your radio within 5 secs of shut off to hit the power button to turn on again, then you have to wait for the whole syncing process to work, then (with my Galaxy) sometimes the music will start again on Pandora or Spotify, or it won't or it will start my stored music. You really never know what will happen.

I have an AUX battery and recently installed an 800-watt Kicker audio system and it is nice to have the music playing while I am tinkering. But it does get annoying to have to make a mad dash to the radio to turn it back on....maybe the 20 min mark is a timer for get another beer?
 

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Anyone have an update on this mystery? The biggest problem with the radio turning off is if you are using the bluetooth to your phone. If you dont get to your radio within 5 secs of shut off to hit the power button to turn on again, then you have to wait for the whole syncing process to work, then (with my Galaxy) sometimes the music will start again on Pandora or Spotify, or it won't or it will start my stored music. You really never know what will happen.

I have an AUX battery and recently installed an 800-watt Kicker audio system and it is nice to have the music playing while I am tinkering. But it does get annoying to have to make a mad dash to the radio to turn it back on....maybe the 20 min mark is a timer for get another beer?
If I put the $$ into a Kicker, I'd add a second usb/bluetooth radio in the back, powered by the Aux battery! Car radios are pretty inexpensive!

As a matter of fact, that's what I'm doing (any day now....) Not the Kicker, just a second radio! :D
Just a thought
Ed
 

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If I put the $$ into a Kicker, I'd add a second usb/bluetooth radio in the back, powered by the Aux battery! Car radios are pretty inexpensive!

As a matter of fact, that's what I'm doing (any day now....) Not the Kicker, just a second radio! :D
Just a thought
Ed
This is what most RV manufacturers do.
 

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Here's another alternative?

I'd never seen these before: Bluetooth enabled amps. It would work, improving the UConnects sound, and act like a second radio.

An example here - http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113M1824BT/Kenwood-KAC-M1824BT.html

One of these could be added to the stereo system and then used via Bluetooth with your phone, iPad or what-have-you. Since its between the stereo and speakers you don't have to deal with turning the Uconnect on every 20 mins. You just play your music, pandora, internet radio thru the amp. The only challenge would be powering it so it works without the PM running?
 

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On the other hand....

The documentation (I use the term loosely) for the radio Upfit Connector (that customers paid extra $$ for as an option) says:

Pin 1: Permanent supply from auxiliary battery to radio cable present only from C036-L1A to Y028L1A (1)

1) NOTE: the connection from connector Y028L1A to radio is made by the upfitter,
who must suitably isolate the radio power supply present in the vehicle
main system

Someone at Ram should be able to support that connection with information that they surely provide to Winebago, etc. !

Ed
 

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Here's another alternative?

I'd never seen these before: Bluetooth enabled amps. It would work, improving the UConnects sound, and act like a second radio.

An example here - http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113M1824BT/Kenwood-KAC-M1824BT.html

One of these could be added.....

That's a really cool alternative. That might work perfectly for me. Most of my music comes from my phone and this thing would select the source automatically and I could hide it in the dash where I already have a power source coming in from aux battery. Just splice it into the four speakers that are already wired there.

The second radio is an option. I've heard you would need either a combiner, which some amps have, or have a second set of speakers since you can't run more than one radio to a set of speakers.

Either way I've already run the wiring and set up the rear speakers from the uconnect and my layout of the van is pretty well set so I was really hoping to only have to pull the radio out and do some wiring there rather than re do the whole enchilada. It'd be a bitch to get back into some of those chases for additional wiring since I already have walls and insulation done.

As for an other update, I've been bugging customer service at Chrysler, they told me the 20 minute shutoff couldn't be changed, I called them back and wanted specifics from a tech on how it works and why not. They said they would escalate the issue but I would have to bring it in to the dealer so their tech could talk to a tech at the dealer.

I'm due for an oil change in another couple weeks so standby for hopefully a better answer but I'm not expecting much.

Cheers,

Matt
 

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That's a really cool alternative. That might work perfectly for me. Most of my music comes from my phone and this thing would select the source automatically and I could hide it in the dash where I already have a power source coming in from aux battery. Just splice it into the four speakers that are already wired there.
That's what I'm planning on doing when I'm ready for an amp. I like the idea for sitting outside the van and still being able to control the music. Mount the remote near the slider or rear door and then you can turn it on or off and increase/decrease volume without reaching for the dash. Then program the music choices from your phone etc.

It might even fit the empty space behind the lower center cupholders if you're lucky. Although it may be a bit to enclosed for amp cooling.

The only thing that it doesn't do is handle a subwoofer, but I'm not interested in that anyway...
 
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