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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased a used 2017 promaster 2500. The previous owner had an aftermarket radio installed.

I didn't notice the odometer flashing on the test drive. The date was wrong too but I figured they either serviced or put a new battery in. It was purchased from a non ram dealer.

As an electrician, the treatment of wire manangment to the battery area in the floor would indicate a professional install. The rest of paneling added to the cargo area, the slick diamond plate flooring and the rear speakers and subwoofer in the cargo attic space all scream a professional install.

The unit is a pioneer 8200nex. The steering wheel controls work. The Bluetooth works. The backup camera,park assist, cruise control, etc all works. It looks like they used the idatalink module because it is listed in the system information.

My issues which seem to be tied with the removal of the uconnect 5 is the blinking odometer, the blinking clock, and the incorrect date, all of which are on the instrument cluster.

Again, the build sheet indicated it was a uconnect5 originally.

Is there or has there been any fixes for the instrument cluster information issues (clock, odometer flashing, date)? Would a firmware update on the idatalink hardware or the 8200nex unit fix this?

I haven't torn the dash apart as I had just drove the vehicle home a few hours ago.

I did try a battery rest after locating the battery...lol.

That did not fix the blinking odometer and just created an additional blink, the clock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update: went out to see a few things.

1) the USB connection under the steering wheel is inactive.

2) the idatalink in the system information says "NOK" for the pioneer 8200nex.

3) there is an aux Jack and USB cord in the lower glovebox. The USB cord there works with the 8200nex.

4) the oem vehicle options are greyed out on the 8200nex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Update: I couldn't leave well enough alone. I pulled the unit out to inspect. They used an axxess AX-CH5-SWC data interface which according to the site hasn't been tested with the promaster.

Would ordering a maesteo rr and undoing/redoing whatever they did resolve my instrument cluster issues?
 

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The idatalink maestro rr works well in my 2017. The stock USB from the UConnect5 runs to the USB port by the steering wheel, so that'd be the logical connection for your pioneer USB (probably need a USB adapter).
 

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2017 159, w/dual sliders. SF Bay area
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My 2017 came with the UConnect 5. The Maestro rr was a plug and play replacement. With that and a head unit that supports the datalink connection (not sure of the name) you get solid system integration. The clock sets. I can read my tire pressures. Backup camera works. I can reset my "your car alarm went off while you were gone" alert. etc.

Highly recommended. Details here:

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73898
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I still have a concern. The previous owner or installer used an axxess integration module and I don't know what the original uconnect5 wiring looked like.

I notice the ch3 vehicle specific harness you list in your thread has several small plastic connectors that are supposed to plug into corresponding connectors off the factory harness in addition to the large black main radio connector from the factory correct? At least that's what it shows in the document off the idatalink for the ch3 harness.

Having the unit out yesterday I don't recall seeing those with what I have back there now. Does anyone have factory wiring diagram or decent picture of the stock uconnect 5 setup so if they had cut and spliced those connectors I can identify the wires I need to match up with the ch3 connectors. Sorry if that sounded confusing.

I'm going to order the masetro mmr-rr and the ch3 harness. Do you need any of the optional cords that the idatalink website lists for the promaster. They have a nav1/nav2/gps cords listed.

The pioneer that came with the van had it's own gps atena (installed improperly on the head unit itself but seems to work fine) and the microphone for phone calls. I don't see the stock Bluetooth mic coming into the area behind the dash or is it in the factory connector harness?
 

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Everything I used is in that post. No optional cables. Note that my radio has GPS for setting the clock but not for nav.

This is the wiring guide I used.

http://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/RR-CHR/ADS-RR(SR)-CHR03E-DS-IG-EN_20170221.pdf

There are one or two connectors from the RR harness that are not used. The wiring definitely wasn't intuitive, but it was all there in the diagram. The vehicle connection is just he factory harness and optional OBDC. There are a couple of wires that are straight from the RR to the radio.

I used the mic that came with the radio. That was the one poorly documented item. I don't know where the OEM mic is in the cab and there is no obvious connector for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
In step two of that document, are those green and white connections, is half supplied by the ch3 and the other half supposed to be from the factory? Those are the ones I'm referring to previously.
 

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In step two, both cable sets come with the CH3. The only thing from the van is the (very large) factory radio connector (shown in the right half of step 3)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the help. I appreciate it. You've been very helpful.

One last question.

There is an unused rca cable (one white one red end) and a white plastic funky connector with a male mini/micro USB end that appear to be coming out of factory looms. Would these be the leads from the factory block that is located below and to the right of the steering wheel?

Also my build sheet says the vehicle had gps but the pioneer unit is utilizing it's supplied gps antenna. Did the factory units with nav had an internal antenna. I have the low pro black antenna on the roof. I wasn't sure if that was Sirius XM only or a combination.
 

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Yes, that USB goes back to the dash outlet by the driver's knee. Connecting that to the radio is where you use the adapter in my parts list.

I can't remember what I did about the GPS antenna. Used the radio supplied one I think. I don't remember any extra rca cable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I was thinking the rca cable would have been the aux Jack input. Mine seems to be missing. They have an aux Jack cable and the pioneer supplied USB cable plugged in an running to the glove box.

Unless that aux Jack is integrated into the factory harness?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Update: I installed the idatalink maestro rr with their ch3 harness.

The previous owner added rear speakers with their own wiring. These leads were spliced onto the radio power harness and were thus omitted from the idatalink harness. Since the van has the optional upfitter outlet package, I have a feeling there is stock wiring for rear speakers ran from the factory harness to the rear. Maybe I'm incorrect but I don't feel like pulling out the previous install and redoing it over something trival and doesn't really affect function.

I do have to pull the unit out and resplice the rear speaker leads as the previous installer have the left and right sides mixed up after checking balance. I marked and swapped them over one at a time to insure there would be no silly mistakes. My mistake was trusting someone else did it correctly the first time.

This is fine as I have to get back in there when the usb a male to mini USB a female adapter arrives. I couldn't source one locally. This should restore operation of the USB port under the steering wheel. This will be plugged into the usb2 slot on the pioneer radio and allow for Android car operation. I left the additional USB cord plugged into port1 of the radio which was routed to the glove box by the previous owner. This would allow apple car play for any passenger with an Apple device.

I don't have an aux cord to test to see if the aux Jack under the steering wheel works or not. I have a feeling it should as I believe that is wired in the factory connector which the Idatalink harness intergrates with. Again, I didn't feel like opening up the dash to trace anything out and could not find any documentation. I'll see if I can borrow a cord from a co-worker and test it out for giggles. I use Bluetooth typically to stream Spotify so the aux Jack isn't used by me much. However, I'm kinda ocd and would very much want it operation just to scratch that itch.

One other deviation to the idatalink instructions was the blue/white remote wire. I have one coming from the idatalink harness and one coming from the pioneer radio harness. The idatalink wiring diagram shows them being spliced together. The previous installer had the remote switch wire (blue/white) from the radio power harness spliced to a wire going to the subwoofer amp under the driver seat. I followed suit as it was working when I started. I also couldn't find any documentation on what that wire does within the idatalink harness or what it did with the factory radio. Shoulder shrug. The amp and subwoofer work fine after my installation so who knows? I don't remember what documentation it was but there was reference to a glass antenna or other device switched by this lead. I'm not sure what the promaster has from the factory. I did notice that compared with the Volkswagen I have been driving the last 7 years that the radio reception was really poor with the pioneer radio and the previous owners installation. I was driving the van home down the NJ turnpike and couldn't get stations to tune in that we had listened to on the way up to pickup the van in my wife's Honda Civic. With my Volkswagen I had great radio reception everywhere I went in South Jersey. It was so good where id often get Philly stations down in Atlantic City that I never could get previously. Volkswagen did alot of things wrong but their factory radio setup in those 2010-2013 golfs impressed me in that respect. Other aspects of that radio were not good and their Bluetooth connectivity took long to boot and sync with my phones and I'd often have to restart the radio or car or both to get the Bluetooth music function to be selectable on the touch screen.

Anyways....

Sorry if this was long or hard to follow. If anyone in the future does a radio replacement feel free to message me for clarification.

The maestro rr definitely fixed the flashing odometer and clock on the gauge display. I'm happy.

My only remaining question is do I have to fish the included obdii cable through the dash to reach and plug into the obdii port that is typically reserved for diagnostic use? Or is there another location that I'm unaware of. I'm not sure if it's worth the trouble if I need to take half the dash apart to route that single cable.
 

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Fishing the ODBII cable under the dash was pretty easy. The panel with the cup holders attached comes out with a couple of screws. I decided that I didn't need that feature, so I pulled the wire back out.
 
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