Ram Promaster Forum banner

41 - 57 of 57 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,683 Posts
Curious,
Would the damaged internal parts change the fluid to that color?
Not an expert, but is that color an indication that water got inside, I understand that a little water in the transmission destroys the clutch plates and everything goes downhill from there, (just from what I've read).

@ticketchecker
I hope they flush or replace the lines, thermal bypass valve and cooler for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Not a horrible price. For the **** of it, I assumed maine and did a search. There’s a junkyard in Bow NH that has a trans with 55k on it for $2145. An indie shop might charge 500-700 to swap a trans. But since the dealer is going to charge you already for diagnosing it and pulling it, now is probably not the time to bail.
Phil makes a good point about water. It does nobody any good to put a new trans in only to have it fail again because the actual problem is coolant is getting into the trans from a bad radiator. Easy to test - put air pressure in the trans lines and look for bubbles in the rad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
thanks for tips on having the radiator tested.

Not really feeling the junk yard option. I have one with 60k on it that is toast already, would rather get the 3yr / 100k warranty

The re-man unit is turning out to be a challenge to get. Found a dealer in Burlington, VT that has one for $3140.18. I'll have to drive up there with my core and pick it up.

Chrysler is out of them with no ETA and the only one in Maine got sold to another dealer yesterday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,683 Posts
I was puzzled about the color because IIRC the transmission fluid is air cooled.
Relooking at the trans lines, valve and cooler I personally would replace them and skip the flush.

The re-manuf trans will come with a torque converter so all that is clean.
Looking at the cooler design I wouldn't trust a flush to clean it or the thermal valve.

At least you get a Mopar warranty with the repair.

I could be wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
Not to open a can of worms, but transmissions dont just go out for no reason. Only two things really kill a trans - heat and water. From the looks of the fluid, it’s water. Heat would be black.
What is most likely the cause is water is getting into the trans from the radiator. It’s what killed your first trans too. It’s possible your coolant has trans fluid in it too. The culprit is the radiator. There’s a cooling circuit for trans and engine in there, and the seal/barrier has failed allowing them to mix. Cant be anything else, unless you are pouring water into the dipstick hole.
That the dealer doesnt seem to know this and hasnt mentioned it is a reason to avoid dealers. The new trans will fail as fast as the previous if this problem isnt corrected. A great option would be an aftermarket trans cooler, prob $100. Then it can never happen again.
Verification: i’m going to guess that you either have trans fluid in your coolant, or you have been slowly but consistently losing coolant. Look for a milky residue inside the coolant bottle. Pressure testboth sides of the radiator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Hmm, there's no time like the present to open the can of worms a little wider. Not sure if related but recently on a cold morning (3degrees) I drove to town 12 miles away and back with no heat.

Next time I drove it the temps were a little higher and heat worked fine. And the next time I went to drive it was the beginning of where I am now.

@Kip-on-truckin would adding the aftermarket trans cooler bypass the radiator/built in cooling cirucuit?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
Kip, I’m sure I’m not the only one chilled by "or you have been slowly but consistently losing coolant." A number of us have unexplained consistently low coolant levels.
Yes, I too lose coolant in one van. No idea where it’s going, but I smell it under the hood which tells me it’s likely weeping out of a hose in some place I cant see. On that van, I’ve chosen to ignore it as it’s asymptomatic and I just add maybe a qt every 10,000 miles.
If you want piece or mind, dip a dipstick into your trans. If the fluid comes back pink milkshake, worry. If not, dont worry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
Hmm, there's no time like the present to open the can of worms a little wider. Not sure if related but recently on a cold morning (3degrees) I drove to town 12 miles away and back with no heat.

Next time I drove it the temps were a little higher and heat worked fine. And the next time I went to drive it was the beginning of where I am now.

@Kip-on-truckin would adding the aftermarket trans cooler bypass the radiator/built in cooling cirucuit?
Lack of heat can only be a few things, but the main one is low coolant level. On our vans, the heater core is higher than the engine, so air which replaced your lost coolant shows up there first. So yeah, I’d say it’s very related. Granted, a stuck thermostat can cause the same condition, trapping the hot coolant in the engine and not letting it get to the heater core. But in that case, the engine would have been overheating which would show up in the computer. The dealership cant be so incompetent they didnt look in the ecu history. Then again...

Given what you’ve told me, I’d guess the radiator has beenbad for a long time, allowing small amounts of coolant into the trans. In summertime or working hard, the trans temp is above boiling, so the water might turn to steam and escape the vent at the top or the trans that is there for just that purpose. But in winter, maybe the fluid never gets to boiling, so the water builds. Water eats clutches, clutches come apart,drstroys itself.
Aftermarket coolers are simply small radiators, sometimes with a small electric fan. Cheap, simple stuff. But it may not be the best idea, since I know the trans has a temp sensor so it can adjust it’s behavior based on temp. Overcool it and I dont know how that would affect it. Have to look into that one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
135 Posts
In my van, no heat turned out to mean a busted blend door actuator that was stuck in the full cold position. Coolant was fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,683 Posts
@Kip-on-truckin
Ok now I'm baffled, according to the parts diagram you can buy the trans cooler by itself and looking under the van the cooler appears to be air cooled and independent of the radiator coolant, that's why the color of the ATF doesn't make sense.
60771


The install direction say to hot flush the cooler and lines or replace, the block you see in the lines is the thermal bypass valve (it opens when a set temperature is reached), imagine the debris that's in the cooler and valve. The ATF has to be really hot to open that valve, I just doubt they actually do the flush.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,683 Posts
Not sure if related but recently on a cold morning (3degrees) I drove to town 12 miles away and back with no heat.
I had the same thing happen, I just rotate the knobs all the way, wait some, then rotate them all the way back and repeat, started working again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
Sure enough, it’s separate. Now I’m baffled. How did water get in there? Are we misreading the fluid? Sure looks like atf and water.
I’m scratching my head.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
I had the same thing happen, I just rotate the knobs all the way, wait some, then rotate them all the way back and repeat, started working again.
I ruled that out because he said it started working again. Another cause for no heat I didnt mention would be a plugged heat exchanger, an vapor lock/bleeding problem (our vans have two bleed points), a bad water pump, a pinched heater hose, and maybe some others I’m missing. But low coolant is the most obvious.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
848 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
The vent for the trans is a little capped nub at the top of the trans. You’d have to be in 40” of water for any to get in. Rain or roadsplash isnt going to get in. The dipstick tube is even higher, and plugged with a screw in cap.
More likely would be water getting in from the differential or axle tubes. But if that was a problem, we’d all have it, and we dont.
 
41 - 57 of 57 Posts
Top