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Full synthetic 75W-85 manual transmission fluid meeting the API GL4 specification.

I put the transmission in Neutral at stoplights and whenever I can see I will not be moving with the van for a minute or more. I believe it is easier on the clutch release bearing, the clutch plates, the transmission internals and the clutch activation hydraulic system.
 

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Hey, I had the same scenario of coming to a stop, shifting to neutral, then lurching forward still in gear. I put it back in neutral, cel and service transmission flashes. I turned it off, then back on, cel stays on, but it shifts and runs fine. Help? Planning on getting the code read tommorow. I've driven 1700 miles in the past 2 days. It's a 2014 diesel with 68000 miles on it.
 

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Hey, I had the same scenario of coming to a stop, shifting to neutral, then lurching forward still in gear. I put it back in neutral, cel and service transmission flashes. I turned it off, then back on, cel stays on, but it shifts and runs fine. Help? Planning on getting the code read tommorow. I've driven 1700 miles in the past 2 days. It's a 2014 diesel with 68000 miles on it.
Also, I'd love to hear more about changing the transmission oil?
 

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I was at the dealership this morning to get some needed tools of the van. Had a chance to talk to the mechanic. He informed me after he tried Star's flash the computer first, he then felt the issue was with the hydraulic system. SO he bleed the unit and while on the lift it started to shift perfectly fine. He informed Star about this and they warned him not to take it out on the road due to the issue will come right back. Then they said the fact that bleeding the system solved the issue, that they recommend changing out the whole hydraulic actuator and slave cylinder. He just got it on that yesterday, said he will get it all back together once he gets a chance to get back on the truck.

This is one of the few dealerships in the Chicagoland area that doesn't have the mechanics on strike for the last month. So they are being overwhelmed with service calls from customers that normally use other dealerships.
Which dealership serviced your transmission?
 

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Hi, I have a running 2014 Diesel promaster van 438k miles. You should change your transmission oil periodically (every 30k)or near. Manual owner said nothing about it, and dealers said never need to be changed. Gears in your transmission make friction and generates metal debris. This transmission has not oil filter, not oil pump, only a little piece of magnet, not enough to trap all the iron debris inside. This transmission has about 6 little bearing with plastic holder cases (balls separators are plastics) on each gear wheels. Very fragile. Any debris is enough to mess it. Oil change is the way to flush and clean it. Drain plug is in the bottom of differential case on driver side. Refill plug is the other like drain, and you can find it in the front face of the transmission over the speed sensor. You are going to need a piece of hose and a funnel, Fill 3 liters of gear lubes 75w 85 or similar. NOT ATF, THIS IS NOT AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. BUT 6 SPEED AUTOMATED MANUAL TRANSMISSION. Easy and worth it ,About 15 dollar at Walmart. Do not work your van idle. Idle affect particle filter, engine, and transmission. While idle your transmission is running but is not enough lubricated because the oil do not splash the uppers shaft which are spinning and dry. Tires are not moving because your clutch is working to keep disengaging.
How many miles now Dario?
 

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See post #41
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Well at 70K miles while driving I heard a thump come from the front end while turning. Then it got worse along with a grinding noise. I had it towed to the dealer. They called me to inform me that the transmission mount bolts pulled out of the transmission. So it fell and damaged the axils along with pulling the wiring harness for the turbo and the brake pad sensors. The holes in the transmission housing were damaged to the point that they needed to replace the transmission.

They had FCA come out since I did have the extended warranty. The adjuster at first said the mounts are not covered which in turn doesn't cover the damage done. The service writer noted a service bulletin for the gas engine ProMasters that if any transmission work is done the mounts and bolts must be replaced. The adjuster said it doesn't apply to the diesel, but the adjuster pointed out the part numbers for the bolts were the same. So FCA ended up covering all repairs under warranty. New axils, a new caliper, new transmission. Invoice was a tad over 9K, all I had to pay was the $100 deductible.

Now I have had random electrical issues with the hydraulic actuator. It would give a service transmission soon, and be stuck in Neutral. After turning the van off waiting a minute then restarting the transmission shifted like normal but the check engine light stayed on. By the time I got to the dealer I had restarted the van a few times and the check engine light would go out. When the dealer scanned for historical codes, none came up. There is a service bulletin about this issue. It has to do with the electrical connector at the transmission.

By this time and only having a few hundred miles left on the extended warranty, I traded it in for a 2019 Promaster with a service body.
 

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On Thursday they called me to pick up my van it was ready. When I got there they explained the issue was defiantly the hydraulic actuator unit and slave cylinder. Drove it all day Thursday and Friday with no issues. I di not have them do any of the recommended service the brakes, air filter and fuel filter. I told them I am either doing them myself or I will find a place that is cheaper.

I called up the local Pep Boys on Friday and they told me they will do the front brakes and cut the rotors for $290, I scheduled the work to be done Saturday morning. I get there, they pull the van into a bay and start pulling off all four wheels to do a brake inspection. The service writer and mechanic inform me that the front pads still have 50 percent left. But they noticed the inside of the drivers side front rim was full of oil and the outer CV joint is leaking oil out. They proceed to put my tires back on and printed me up a zero dollar invoice for the inspection and it noting the leaking CV joint.

So I promptly call the dealership, and got lucky that the service writer that was handling my transmission case answered the phone (so I thought). I explained to him about the CV joint, and his first words out of his mouth, "We didn't do any work near there." I was shocked and told him I never said you did any work there, and then I said how the **** did you take apart the transaxle with out taking the axils apart? Plus when he and the mechanic let me into my van to get tools I got a good look in the engine bay they had the front wheels off I could clearly see the clutch exposed on the trans since they had it all apart waiting on the new parts. He then says there is nothing he can do today. I never asked for service that day. So I will be heading there Monday morning and we will see if they take responsibly for the CV joint.
I had a CV boot fail at 35,000 also, found it when I was installing my fog lights also a couple of seals were leaking all were covered under the drive train warranty. My front brakes went at 50K and rears at about 55K did the brakes myself with new rotors,pads and parking brake shoes for about 350 dollars in parts
 

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Well at 70K miles while driving I heard a thump come from the front end while turning. Then it got worse along with a grinding noise. I had it towed to the dealer. They called me to inform me that the transmission mount bolts pulled out of the transmission. So it fell and damaged the axils along with pulling the wiring harness for the turbo and the brake pad sensors. The holes in the transmission housing were damaged to the point that they needed to replace the transmission.

They had FCA come out since I did have the extended warranty. The adjuster at first said the mounts are not covered which in turn doesn't cover the damage done. The service writer noted a service bulletin for the gas engine ProMasters that if any transmission work is done the mounts and bolts must be replaced. The adjuster said it doesn't apply to the diesel, but the adjuster pointed out the part numbers for the bolts were the same. So FCA ended up covering all repairs under warranty. New axils, a new caliper, new transmission. Invoice was a tad over 9K, all I had to pay was the $100 deductible.

Now I have had random electrical issues with the hydraulic actuator. It would give a service transmission soon, and be stuck in Neutral. After turning the van off waiting a minute then restarting the transmission shifted like normal but the check engine light stayed on. By the time I got to the dealer I had restarted the van a few times and the check engine light would go out. When the dealer scanned for historical codes, none came up. There is a service bulletin about this issue. It has to do with the electrical connector at the transmission.

By this time and only having a few hundred miles left on the extended warranty, I traded it in for a 2019 Promaster with a service body.
WOW - You probably made the right call with the trade in. If I may ask what number did they put on it? My van is at a Ram dealer as I type for a glow plug replacement which will probably end up as another head replacement I've never had a transmission issue yet but I always drive in manual. I have Max care that gets me to 100,000 miles or 7 years which ever comes first
 
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