trailer hitch
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
papab,
FYI,
I bought a Curt Hitch (C 13170) made specifically for the Promaster. Just $120 (Amazon) including shipping to my door, amazing!
I installed it myself, used a 5 gallon bucket to hold up one end while I attached the other. About a half hour job. Easy... really easy. No holes to drill. Fit perfectly.
I didn't add the wiring yet, but that's about another $50 and equally easy to install on the PM.
Ed
FYI,
I bought a Curt Hitch (C 13170) made specifically for the Promaster. Just $120 (Amazon) including shipping to my door, amazing!
I installed it myself, used a 5 gallon bucket to hold up one end while I attached the other. About a half hour job. Easy... really easy. No holes to drill. Fit perfectly.
I didn't add the wiring yet, but that's about another $50 and equally easy to install on the PM.
Ed
I have not seen the "fish wire" procedure mentioned before (as noted on the assembly instructions http://www.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary/13170/installsheet/CM_13170_INS.PDF ) Is it a straightforward process for installing, or are there some "gotchas?"
I received the curt hitch as well. The fishwire is super easy. The only problem I had with the install was pulling the power wire back to the light module. My shelving fits snug against the plastic trim (which is where you're directed to route the wire) around the seat belt area so I had to improvise.
Joined
·
338 Posts
I got the trailer/tow package installed from factory I haven't received my promaster yet it was ordered, but I looked at some on the dealer lot that had the factory trailer hitch and thought it was extremely well installed etc.. Comes with two separate power plugs depending on trailer light set up and has a rubber cover/insert for receiver plug with the ram logo on it. I have purchased vehicles in the past and think having this done at the factory is always a cleaner install I am sure everyone on this forum can duplicate this installation just as well I just prefer the "turn key" approach.
Joined
·
253 Posts
Factory Towing Group
![IMG_0223.JPG]()
![IMG_0226.JPG]()
![IMG_0228.JPG]()
![IMG_0229.JPG]()
I agree. I've had E-series and Sprinter vans. Some with factory towing and others with Curt or Draw Tite bars that I installed myself. The factory install is almost always hidden up and under the vehicle better than the aftermarket product. That's not to say its better, because Curt builds a very high quality product. I just like the look of factory better. The PM tow package is no exception. It almost completely hides up behind the bumper with a very nice bracket to mount the wiring receptacle. In my mind it's very well worth the price. Also of note: The "factory" tow group is not actually a factory installed option. Ram jobs it out to Utilimaster. I have a modified vehicle sticker in my door jam explaining that. I'm not sure where the install occurs though. I'll attach pics of mine.
I wonder just what the Trailer Tow Group option includes? On some vehicles you get a larger radiator, bigger alternator, or possibly an extra transmission cooler in addition to the hitch and wiring.
Joined
·
888 Posts
So true. You really should order the hitch from the factory every time, when possible. GM often up sized coolers, but didn't include that hidden info when you selected the towing package option.
I installed my hitch just to mount a hitch step. >
Thanks for the pics Pete,
How about a pic of the Curt hitch? Does it tuck up to the bumper as well as the factory hitch? Is the receiver level? I ask because I put a Curt hitch on my rav4, about half the cost of the OEM hitch, & even tho I'm cheap it might have been worth the extra $ for the toyota hitch. The Curt hitch doesn't tuck up to the bumper as well and had a downslope to it. No big deal for a trailer, but a big negative when I hung a motorcycle carrier on there.
The factory option includes only the class V hitch, & 7 and 4 Pin Wiring Harness.
How about a pic of the Curt hitch? Does it tuck up to the bumper as well as the factory hitch? Is the receiver level? I ask because I put a Curt hitch on my rav4, about half the cost of the OEM hitch, & even tho I'm cheap it might have been worth the extra $ for the toyota hitch. The Curt hitch doesn't tuck up to the bumper as well and had a downslope to it. No big deal for a trailer, but a big negative when I hung a motorcycle carrier on there.
The factory option includes only the class V hitch, & 7 and 4 Pin Wiring Harness.
Joined
·
253 Posts
I remember seeing a pic. of the Curt one installed on a PM on this forum. You'd have to search the related threads it's in there somewhere. From what I remember though, it hangs down under the bumper a few inches.
Joined
·
604 Posts
There's a pic or two in the installation instructions: http://www.etrailer.com/instructions.aspx?pn=C13170
Joined
·
10,506 Posts
I did a short write up on my Curt installation bck in May. If you search you will find it. The biggest thing I remember is the tip of the tail pipe is right up against the hitch and the bolts that came with it were way to short. It was a very simple inhalation tho with do drilling or fishing wires for bolts as I remember.
In my experience with Curt they don't hold up that well and the powder coating starts to peel right off after a few years. You really have to keep on it or they rust really easy (at least in the North East).
In my experience with Curt they don't hold up that well and the powder coating starts to peel right off after a few years. You really have to keep on it or they rust really easy (at least in the North East).
Joined
·
145 Posts
I remember a few people having issues with the Curt powder coating peeling off with rust underneath in the snow/rustbelt states. I had a sprinter with the Curt (live in Phoenix, AZ) and got castrated by the Sprinter forum members on how I loved the finish on my Curt hitch with it's nice gloss finish. Every single one of them had some kind of finish problem down the road with them. Like anything else, if you wash the salt off the vehicle after a drive through salted roads, your vehicle/accessories may last longer.
Found it:
http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14193
The OEM does fit up tighter to the bumper & looks better.
Joined
·
126 Posts
Hitch and hitch step
I just bought and installed the Curt hitch and the Go Rhino step. I did not have a chance to do the wiring but I wanted to get that step working for me. Here are my thoughts on several comments above:
1- The Curt hitch was a good price and the unit installed very easily. Fishing the bolts is a piece of cake with the helper wires included. Anyone can install this thing as there is no way to do this backwards or upside down. Instructions are good too. Keep in mind I did not do the wiring yet, but I bought the designated kit so that should be fine too.
2- I bought the Go Rhino 2 bar step with the little extra step. I like to use the small step too and I like the way it looks but you do not need it to hop in the van so the single bar step type is fine. One thing to consider is that the small step keeps you a few inches further back from your van when loading. Note in my picture, the step is wide enough that you can hop in and out through one door. You need not open them both if you do not care to. My hitch step fits a little loose but I am only one rubber shim and some 3M spray adhesive away from that never being another thought.
I just bought and installed the Curt hitch and the Go Rhino step. I did not have a chance to do the wiring but I wanted to get that step working for me. Here are my thoughts on several comments above:
1- The Curt hitch was a good price and the unit installed very easily. Fishing the bolts is a piece of cake with the helper wires included. Anyone can install this thing as there is no way to do this backwards or upside down. Instructions are good too. Keep in mind I did not do the wiring yet, but I bought the designated kit so that should be fine too.
2- I bought the Go Rhino 2 bar step with the little extra step. I like to use the small step too and I like the way it looks but you do not need it to hop in the van so the single bar step type is fine. One thing to consider is that the small step keeps you a few inches further back from your van when loading. Note in my picture, the step is wide enough that you can hop in and out through one door. You need not open them both if you do not care to. My hitch step fits a little loose but I am only one rubber shim and some 3M spray adhesive away from that never being another thought.
Attachments
I installed my hitch to mount a Ham Radio antenna! >I installed my hitch just to mount a hitch step. >
Ok, so if I need to tow something, it'll be nice to have it already there....
I didn't do the wiring, but have been thinking about it. Seems like I could use the optional 12V accessory outlet that came with my PM to supply the power feed, instead of running a wire to the front. Then again, the people at Ram Customer Support gave up on how to get the fuse cover open, so if I blow that fuse, I guess I'll have to go back to the dealer to replace it! AAARRRRGGGGH!
Ed
Joined
·
10,506 Posts
Eddie, the cover pops right off - two plastic clips hold it in place, NO tools required:
KOV,Eddie, the cover pops right off - two plastic clips hold it in place, NO tools required:
That's the problem! Sometime between when they made yours and mine, they replaced the clips with 2 nuts facing up at you. So you need a deep socket, and I expect that the nuts will fall into the engine compartment when they come loose!
My dealer in VT says, "the manual says just release the clips".... their documentation doesn't refer to nuts!
Thus, the AAAARRRRGGGGHHHH,
Ed
ps. I have to take a picture so someone believes me!
I don't want to hijack this thread...Eddie, the cover pops right off - two plastic clips hold it in place, NO tools required:
Please look at this picture on my re-fuse thread...
http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=118298&postcount=8
Thanks,
Ed
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!