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Discussion Starter #1

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Nice fine! I was going to modify my bumper to protect the doors. The door ends extend farther back than the bumper when fully opened and backing up to a dock could be a problem when you need to be as close as possible. I will add the hitch and modify something to go into it. I'll then be able to remove it when I need to tow. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice fine! I was going to modify my bumper to protect the doors. The door ends extend farther back than the bumper when fully opened and backing up to a dock could be a problem when you need to be as close as possible. I will add the hitch and modify something to go into it. I'll then be able to remove it when I need to tow. :D
I'm going to use it for an aluminum cargo carrier:

http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Cargo-Carrier/Curt/C18100.html

and a step when I'm not using the carrier:

http://www.etrailer.com/Accessory-Step/Curt/C31001.html
 

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I have the 13170 in the garage ready to install. It looks very well built and a lot easier to install than the 13150 and it is rated for the same weight.
I hope to get it installed this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Several past threads have said that the Curt 13150 is for the PM, but it appears now that the 13170 also fits it - with the added bonuses that there is no drilling required and it's less expensive. Here are a couple of sites that are now selling the 13170 for the PM (I just ordered one):

http://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-2014_Dodge_ProMaster+2500.htm

http://www.eurocampers.com/Curt-Mfg-Class-III-Hitch-For-2014--on-Dodge-ProMaster--All-Models_p_1102.html
Got it and installed it - VERY easy to install, it's designed specifically for the PM, took about 20 minutes. It fits nicely right under the bumper and there are no clearance issues whatsoever. It's rated at 600 lbs. tongue load, 6,000 lbs. towing. I'm happy!
 

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That's an interesting design. I had never seen a receiver that bolted to vehicle like that.

Draw Tite, seems to have followed the more typical design of bolting from under frame rails.
 

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Wiring

Is the Promaster pre-wired for a 7 pin connector? Those that installed their own hitches, did you have to run wires for lights, brakes and battery to the connector or did the PM have a plug in or wires at the rear to connect to a 7 pin connector?
 

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ordered mine two months ago and part of the deal is that the dealer will install a trailer hitch. I asked mine about the wiring harness and he told me it would be the 7 pin type. Time will tell if what he said is true or not
 

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dawn-

you can use it as a step AND a hitch at the same time with one of these gizmos.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-7060200-Hitch-Step/dp/B00ECW2T38[/ame]
 

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The wiring kit that Curt has is real easy to install. Gives you a 4 wire flat I changed it to adapt to a 7 pin. the 7 is a much more reliable way to connect. I didn't like the light weight rear bumper so I replaced it with a 4"x 8" .250 square tube. Now I pity the fool who rear ends me. Plus it look oem.
 

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ordered mine two months ago and part of the deal is that the dealer will install a trailer hitch. I asked mine about the wiring harness and he told me it would be the 7 pin type. Time will tell if what he said is true or not
I worked the same deal worth my dealer and it took awhile to get the worrying harness in but they installed it on Saturday. I took a picture for you.
 

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neosoun, don't know if I am doing something wrong, but I can't see the picture. I sure would be interested in the pic.
 

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The wiring kit that Curt has is real easy to install. Gives you a 4 wire flat I changed it to adapt to a 7 pin. the 7 is a much more reliable way to connect. I didn't like the light weight rear bumper so I replaced it with a 4"x 8" .250 square tube. Now I pity the fool who rear ends me. Plus it look oem.
How about some pictures of that bumper. I swear that is exactly what I wanted to do but I have the backup sensors so it may take a bit of time.
 

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neosoun, don't know if I am doing something wrong, but I can't see the picture. I sure would be interested in the pic.
I don't know if I did something wrong. First time trying to load a picture. I will say I have the 3500 ext and I'm not a huge fan of towing stuff with it compared to my Ford but it's nice when I need to. The other thing is the dealer installed it but when I went to use it none of the trailer lights will work on the 4pin or 7 pin. So back to the dealer I go.
 

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I don't know if I did something wrong. First time trying to load a picture. I will say I have the 3500 ext and I'm not a huge fan of towing stuff with it compared to my Ford but it's nice when I need to. The other thing is the dealer installed it but when I went to use it none of the trailer lights will work on the 4pin or 7 pin. So back to the dealer I go.

Neosoun, what is it exactly you don't like about towing with the 3500 ext compared to your ford? Is it because of the V6 gas engine? I ask because I plan on getting the 3500 ext with the 3.0 diesel engine and will be pulling a 7x14 cargo trailer empty weight of 2000# so will give me a 3000# carrying capacity to keep within the Promasters 5100# tow rating. Also the diesel engine bumps the GCWR from 11,500lbs(gas) to 12,500lbs(diesel) so I figure I will still have 2000# for cargo inside back of van itself.
5100#(empty van)
2000#(empty trailer)
3000#(cargo in trailer)
2000#(cargo in van)
12,100#(total) with 400# to spare for driver/passenger, and what not..
 
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