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Ordered a Curtis tow hitch and wiring for my new PM off of E trailer.com. 250$ sent to the door! Saved 1/2 off of my in town quotes. Took like 4 hours total. No biggie. If u guys are wanting one don't hesitate, it was simple and is quality!
 

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All of the wiring harnesses I have found are the 4 pin connector. Has anyone seen an aftermarket harness with the 7 pin connector for the ProMaster?
 

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All of the wiring harnesses I have found are the 4 pin connector. Has anyone seen an aftermarket harness with the 7 pin connector for the ProMaster?
There are PDFs of the installation guide for the factory hitch and wiring at the Mopar site.
http://mopar.chromedata.com/RichContent/CDJR/K6861809.pdf

Looking at the complexity of the install, going for the stock kit may be the best way, even at $250!
 

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The Curt kit is $60 and is totally simple to instal! It comes with everything. It is a four conductor receptical. The Ram one looks as if it comes with both a four and seven conductor receptacle in one.
 

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I think the stock hitch fits up tighter to the bumper. It might be worth it to some of us. I've been thinking about the stock hitch & the Curt wiring kit.
 

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From what I've read and can tell, even if you get the Mopar 7 pin set up, it does not include a provision for a brake controller. That still requires running a medium gauge wire from the front to the back.
 

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From what I've read and can tell, even if you get the Mopar 7 pin set up, it does not include a provision for a brake controller. That still requires running a medium gauge wire from the front to the back.
The Mopar installation manual doesn't have a circuit diagram, but the connections going to the front of the chassis have several wires to connect. 7 pin connectors are designed to have brake control. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3433/3274132386_0723915d6c.jpg
 

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I know the plug has the provision, but the brake controller requires another power lead going from the controller to the plug. I did not see that in the instructions. If it is there that would be great and make the cost worthwhile.
 

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Seems everyone is doing the factory hitch or the curt hitch. My local shop recommended the Reese hitch, said it's rated to 7500lbs. I remember reading that the pm can only tow 5100lbs but a stronger hitch is appealing. I can't even find a pic of the Reese installed, though the Reese PM install manual shows it tucked in under the bumper rather well.
Anyone on here installed the Resse one?
 

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Can someone post pictures of the factory and aftermarked hitches? I'd like to see how much more the aftermarket hitch hangs down.
I keep forgetting to get a picture of it The factory hitch is less than 1/4" below the step bumper. Barely enough room to get the loop of the cover on.

Almost wish it was a little lower, as the doors don't clear the cargo tray that we have. Although it is a 1 1/4" tray, maybe I can get a combination reducer/drop adapter.
 

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The Curt one shows below the bumper but for $100 at amazon plus $40 for a wire harness it was an easy choice considering the next cheapest hitch was over double the cost. Using that money I saved on the hitch for another vent fan. The Curt took about 30mins for install too, it was almost too easy.

Ck32250 - I think you said you are in Jax Beach, if you want to check the Curt hitch on my rig let me know.
 

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The Curt kit is $60 and is totally simple to instal! It comes with everything. It is a four conductor receptical. The Ram one looks as if it comes with both a four and seven conductor receptacle in one.

For the curt kit 56209- the diagram shows running the power up to the battery. Excuse this question if it's not a good one but...Would it be OK to us the power from behind the cig lighter plug that's already at the back of the van?
 

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The Curt one shows below the bumper but for $100 at amazon plus $40 for a wire harness it was an easy choice considering the next cheapest hitch was over double the cost. Using that money I saved on the hitch for another vent fan. The Curt took about 30mins for install too, it was almost too easy.



Ck32250 - I think you said you are in Jax Beach, if you want to check the Curt hitch on my rig let me know.

Andrew, Thanks for the offer. I would like to check out your van. I like the Reese/draw tite but based on the feedback here decided to go with the curt.

I messaged you with my number.
 

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For the curt kit 56209- the diagram shows running the power up to the battery. Excuse this question if it's not a good one but...Would it be OK to us the power from behind the cig lighter plug that's already at the back of the van?
I suppose you could but the trailer lights can use a lot of power. I know it's a lot easier to just splice into a hot wire nearby but I did go directly to the starting battery and thats what I would advise anyone else to do.
 

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I suppose you could but the trailer lights can use a lot of power. I know it's a lot easier to just splice into a hot wire nearby but I did go directly to the starting battery and thats what I would advise anyone else to do.
Plus, connecting to the battery directly means the hitch connector always has power for the lights. And, you now have an always on 12V in the back of the van.

Connecting to the 12V aux "jack in the back" means no lights if the van is not running. I know.... who needs tail lights on your trailer if the van is not running?

Ed
 
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