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That is the question..
So, now that we are under "shelter in place orders" in California, for the first time in in my life, I have time for van improvements & honey-do's. A lot of time...
So, looking to run some wires for future roof mount puck lights in our 2019 136HT.
Are you guys grounding the neg in the roof? Or running a ground return to battery for your interior lights?
That, is the question...
 

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I haven't done my electrical yet, but I'm running all my grounds back to a bar that goes to the house battery negative. Everything that's hooked up to the starter battery from the factory will stay as is and be good enough.
Are you running the lights off the starter battery?
If so, I noticed they hooked up the add-on LED strip lights in the cargo area with a ground running all the way back to the starter battery negative. That was done in the factory. Not sure why they did it. It may be an indication that it's recommended.
Everything else from the factory was grounded to the chassis.
 

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It doesn't really matter because everyone has been saying it by habit forever and we all know what someone means when they say "ground". But I just feel like getting it out of my system and saying it.
I kinda hate when it's called a ground. It's DC and it's the negative. I hate it more when I say ground.
There. I said it. Carry on.
 

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"Ground" is the common side of a circuit often at the potential of the Earth which may be where the term ground came from. A rod driven into the Ground at your home assures that potential. BTW English and other DC electrical systems until about the 1960’s had the POSITIVE side grounded! My 1956 Ferguson 12 volt tractor on our home place in Vermont still has that as did 6 volt A Model Ford cars and many others. To say Negative is a better term. Thanks RnR
 

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It doesn't really matter because everyone has been saying it by habit forever and we all know what someone means when they say "ground". But I just feel like getting it out of my system and saying it.
I kinda hate when it's called a ground. It's DC and it's the negative. I hate it more when I say ground.
There. I said it. Carry on.
You could always call it "earth". No, really!
 

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I always run the connection back to the bus bar. But I also always run marine style duplex wire also, where there are two wires (for DC) inside an outer sleeve, which also helps protect the wiring.

Too may electrical issues are caused by faulty "ground" connections. I avoid those issues by making a solid connection on my bus bar in my DC panel.
 

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.....cut....
I noticed they hooked up the add-on LED strip lights in the cargo area with a ground running all the way back to the starter battery negative. That was done in the factory. Not sure why they did it. It may be an indication that it's recommended.
Everything else from the factory was grounded to the chassis.
By everything else from factory do you include other lights? Brake lights, marker lights, etc.? Or do they have a two-wire electrical harness with positive and negative?
 

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Chance, I'll have to check on the lights. I haven't dug into those and probably won't unless they need a repair. I pulled the pass B pillar and wheel well trim apart and exposed all the upfitter electrical (and whatever else is running through there. It's a rat's nest).
All the negative wires running through that area were connected and run to a bolt in the wheel well sheet metal.
There's a ton of wiring going to the positive terminal on the battery, but the negative battery terminal is tied to the chassis. The only negative wire ran to the negative was the one from the LED lights.
Saying that, I now realize that everything in the van must "ground" to the chassis.
 

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I'll snap a pic later, while it's still all exposed and put it in my build thread and here too.
It wasn't necessary to rip it all apart, but I'm still not over my disorder that forces me to find out what makes things tick. Also, I wanted to remove the upfitter battery cable completely.
Turns out it's wrapped up with another bundle and I'd have to pull the seats and flooring out.
Which I might do. Messy wires and unnecessary wiring gives me anxiety.
I probably shoulda just left it alone.
 

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I always run the connection back to the bus bar. But I also always run marine style duplex wire also, where there are two wires (for DC) inside an outer sleeve, which also helps protect the wiring.

Too may electrical issues are caused by faulty "ground" connections. I avoid those issues by making a solid connection on my bus bar in my DC panel.
I did the same - Marine wire (red & black in an outer sleeve DC). Marine wire (black, white, & green AC)
 

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I also used sheathed 2-conductor wire. Grounds can fail (come loose, corrode, etc). I didn't want a zillion individual chassis grounds scattered everywhere. I have one. If it ever fails, everything goes down all at once, but I know right where to find it.
 
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