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2017 159, w/dual sliders. SF Bay area
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Santa was good to me this year and brought me a Flir One Pro thermal camera. This plugs into your smart phone and works with the app to mix the thermal image with an overlay from your phone's. camera. This gives the impression of more thermal resolution than there is and make it easier to understand the image.

Note that the temperature range is not fixed. Red in one image is not the same temp as red in another image. This can be locked, but I have not done so with these images.

This has been a lot of fun to play with. It is sensitive enough to heat differentials that it can detect residual hand prints if you put your hand on a wall for a few seconds.

Here is the inside of the van. Today's weather has been mid 50s with bright sun. The inside of the can is maybe 10 degrees warmer than outside. This right side of the van has been in sun all day.

I've used Thinsulate in the open areas of the wall and rear doors, but have not filled any channels. Furthest aft, 2 open areas are not insulated because I plan to put in windows. The slider has a Eurovision window installed.

First up, passenger window, B pillar, seat and Eurovision (EV) window. I insulated the open area above the window, but not around the window. So - standard windows are cold. New window is warmer, but not as warm as the B pillar or seat. In the EV window you can see the gas strut. Forward of that is the shade/blind frame (orange), plywood subframe (yellow), sheet metal (blue).

Range 52F - 64F.



Moving aft, we get the EV window with the shade closed, the insulated spaces (yellow-green) and uninsulated areas (blue). The red smear on top is the inner light. I'm surprised that the door surround is yellow - not as cold as some of the other ribs. There is no insulation in that channel (There is in the open section above the window).

Range 55F - ?? (It says 80, but I'm not sure about that.)



Further aft, we see the uninstalled open panels. Again, no insulation in the channels, but the red section at the bottom and upper right corner are insulated. This is interesting to me because that rib isn't cooling quickly. The adhesive that bonds it to the wall is insulating some. Still, you can see it pulling heat from the warmer areas above and below.

Range 48F - 57F



Finally, aft driver's side. Again, two uninsulated panels (blue). The door has insulation, but not in any channels. The red is residual heat from the light. Those overhead ribs are cold. They must be in better contact with the roof than the side rib is to the wall.

Range 47F - 70F

 

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2018 159 High Roof gas, BC, Canada
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Interesting! I wonder what you can do to (easily) insulate the roof ribs.
 

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MMXVI - L2H2 in IN
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Congrats with the new camera. Interesting photos. Would be great to have some before/after photos, Being careful to have the same ambient conditions, of course.

Interesting! I wonder what you can do to (easily) insulate the roof ribs.
Poking strips of Thinsulate(TM) in there through the holes/slots with a flexible stick works well. Cut a 2-3" wide strip of SM600L or SM400L. Fold the strip over the end of the stick (add some tape to end to keep stick from poking through) and poke strip in to channel. Cut off excess with scissors. Repeat in other slots until roof support beam is loosely filled. Thinsulate will expand somewhat to fill the space. Other method is to run as string through with a fish tape of sucking with vacuum and then us that to pull the Thinsulate through the channel. More how-to photos and comments: http://www.impact3d.com/Thinsulate_installation.html

All the best,
Hein
 

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Coming from the building envelope contracting industry. We have had consultants take thermal images from the EXTERIOR of the building during cold conditions to identify any voids in the continuity of insulation. I'd suggest this might be a more accurate (or just different) way of obtaining your images, but I'm not positive. Interesting though....
 

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The important thing in Thermography is to have a good delta between the inside and outside temperature. The recommendation is generally about 16-20 degrees f.
 

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2017 159, w/dual sliders. SF Bay area
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was playing with cables this weekend. I have a portable compressor that uses battery clamps for power leads. I'm going to hardwire it in, but discovered that it draws 17Amps. Sure enough, after about 1 minute, it tripped the 15A breaker.


I didn't run it long enough to be warm to the touch, but it was definitely getting warmer. I'll upgrade the wiring when I integrate it - and get a 20A breaker.


 

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MMXVI - L2H2 in IN
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Temperatures and thermal camera from a self build, not mine.

The take away is if you are not going to insulate the metal and glass parts, at least cover it.

Don't waste your btu's on exposed metal and glass.

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks phil. I subscribe to that channel so I did see that. I'm happy that my temp. ranges are no where near his.
 
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