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Hey folks! So I've spent about 12 hours doing a bunch of research, and I decided to approach a well known lockpick company to help out in the quest. I'm going to post the email I wrote to them below. I have some ideas and questions for any of you who might be willing to help get this done. My PM is on order and I will not have it in my hot little hands until the end of January :crying:

Okay, first of all, anyone who has a Uconnect 5.0 RA2 (with or without a ParkView camera I'm pretty sure) can help.

Here's what I need:

1) A picture of the front (to verify correct unit) and back of your RA2 unit. This will help in a couple ways. First, I'd like to see it for once! Secondly I like to verify if there are a couple pins available in the back that may prove very useful in our quest.

2) Secondly, some volunteers willing to experiment!

Once I get some people involved, I'll post what we can do to get the ball rolling... I'm already pooped for one day!!

So here's what I wrote to them:

So I am awaiting my arrival of my new ProMaster (PM) and am looking into solutions for the lack of options with regard to entertainment, similar to the freedoms provided to me by the the MyGIG lockpick I own (more on this later). I recently joined a forum that serves PM owners exclusively. In my introduction to the forum, I mentioned the above and received feedback which is telling me that there are MANY owners who would LOVE to have more options as well. So I am hoping that you really take the following information into consideration. YOU WILL SELL HUNDEREDS!!! I have done a lot of research over the last few days, and I am certain it will assist you in a very rapid, and very cost effective (on the R&D side for you guys) solution to being able to offer us unfortunate souls a solution to being overlooked for entertainment by Mopar. It may be as simple as swapping a few pins around? A simple software flash? I am even willing to test your prototype on my vehicle if that helps...

Here's what I have (ordered):

2016 ProMaster with the Uconnect 5.0 RA2 with steering wheel controls, bluetooth hands free kit, and ParkView back-up camera. No Nav; heard it's a joke, especially for $400 (From my research, this is simply a software update. It changes the Compass mode to the Navigation mode.) I have already verified that the 2016 is no different from the 2015.

Here's what I want to accomplish:

Mirror my phone's screen and audio to the display on my 5.0. I was able to do this on my 430N in my 2015 Ram C/V by using one of your extra camera/audio inputs (TV input) provided by the lockpick and rigging up my own MHL adapter.

Here's what I know:

The 2015 Durango with the Uconnect 5.0/RA2 (Durango Stock PDF attachment) has the exact same pin configuration as the 2015 Durango with the 8.4" RA3/4 (Durango Premo PDF) with the same exact functions for each pin. Do you have any verified sales of the UCONNECT AIR V2 to customers that have the 5.0 installed in their Durango? If so this could be VERY easy to accomplish for the PM.

The 2015 Ram ProMaster with the RA2 (Promaster 5.0 PDF) has the exact same pin configurations and functions as the 2015 Durango, with a few exceptions (see Difference PDF) as follows:

PIN 1 on the Durango is for CAN C(+), whereas for the ProMaster is NO CONNECT.
PIN 2 " " is for CAN IHS(+) , " " CAN B BUS(-)

and so on...

The 2015 Durango has inputs for VIDEO SIGNAL 2, VIDEO COMMON 2, AND VIDEO SHIELD 2 on PINs 24, 25, and 26, respectively. However, the PM 5.0 shows NO CONNECT for each of these, but I haven't verified if the actiual head unit has these pins or not. I'm going to ask my buddies on the forum if they can look for me (since I don't have it yet). If they do have the pins, chances are looking very good that you could "trigger" this screen?

Please feel free to ask me any questions or to provide you with more information to get this done!


Okay, so if that doesn't work, here's another possible solution?:

I already own a MyGIG Lockpick V.5 that I took out of my 2015 Ram C/V Tradesman (Commercial version of the Dodge Caravan). I'd be nice if I could get it to work to save me a bunch of extra cash. I'm just trying to get this done any way possible!

Here's what I know with regard to the MyGIG Lockpick V.5 and 2015 Ram C/V Tradesman, looking at and compairing to the vehicle schematics:

The twisted pink pair goes from grey female (radio) connector at head unit (PINs 2 and 13) to lockpick, out of lockpick on twisted blue to the CAN IHS Bus. I will assume this is how we get the override for NAV, etc. If this is the case, then I'm not to concerned with having this work since I don't have NAV enabled on the unit. I'll use my phone for NAV.

The green pair from the white female (A/V) connector at the head unit (PIN 3, Camera Signal and PIN 4 Camera Return) goes to the lockpick, out of the lockpick, to the camera.

So it would serve to reason, that these wires would simply need to be applied to the appropriate counterpart wires on the new PM, correct? And then a possible (if it's even needed) firware flash? Something like this:

Cut the red wire (PIN 31) from the D3843A (PM 5.0) connector and attach it to the green wire leading to the lockpick.
Cut the white wire (PIN 32) " " to the green/blk wire " " .

Splice the red wire leading to the camera to the purple wire from the lockpick.
Splice the white wire " " purple/blk wire " " .

The take the "AUDIO - VIDEO - INPUT" RCA connector off of the white D3843C (C/V 430N) lockpick kit connector, PINs 12, 21, and 22, and splice them into the D3843A (PM 5.0) connector PIN 6 (AUX AUDIO RIGHT SIGNAL), PIN 16 (AUX AUDIO LEFT SIGNAL), and PIN 17 (AUX AUDIO COMMON). And the video RCA from the off of the white D3843C (C/V 430N) lockpick kit connector, PINs 9 and 10, and splice the yellow to the D3843A (PM 5.0) connector PIN 31 (CAMERA SIGNAL) via a toggle switch or relay of some sort, and splice the black RCA wire to PIN 33 (CAMERA SHIELD) ground. The only problem I see is getting the video input to trigger. This is definitely where you guys come in to play. I'm assuming it has something to do with the purple wires?

Anyway, I hope this helps you all to help us get this puppy rolling!!

Thanks so much,

Trace Roberts

All documents here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dlhsuzgvwew02tl/AABd0MDuuafocByQNwVXILa1a?dl=0
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Okay, so I got a slight second wind :)

Whoever is willing to try will need an A/V RCA cable and some sort of media player that has the red, white, and yellow outputs. You will also need to order two of these (or if you have an old cable laying around that has the female connectors you could just use that, you only need three connectors)....

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Speaker-Female-Adapter/dp/B00G352P2C/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1449384589&sr=1-3&keywords=speaker+wire+to+rca+adapter[/ame]



Anyway, we are going to splice these into the RA2 connector as follows. Use this diagram to ID the pins:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3fa0407d0za3ijp/ProMaster 5.0 Chrysler Wiring Diagrams (English).pdf?dl=0

On the first RCA cable, connect the two "negative" (black striped) leads together, and splice into the PIN 17 (AUX AUDIO COMMON) wire. Splice the white wire to the PIN 6 (AUX AUDIO RIGHT SIGNAL) wire. Splice the grey wire to the PIN 16 (AUX AUDIO LEFT SIGNAL) wire.

Turn the ignition switch to the on position and turn the radio on. Select the AUX input. Use a device that has left and right RCA outputs to test your connection. At this point you should have sound! Turn the van off.

Now for the video signal, take the white wire of the second RCA cable and temporarily splice onto the red PIN 31 (CAMERA SIGNAL) wire coming off of the connector. DON'T connect it to the red wire leading into the dash (to the camera) yet. (We will need to install a switch of some sort once we get further along.) Now connect the white/black striped wire and splice it into the black PIN 33 (CAMERA SHIELD) wire. You want to tie the one from the connector, the RCA, and the one leading into the dash, all three together. Plug the yellow video cable from your gadget into this connection.

Turn the ignition switch to the on position, start the van, and turn the radio on. If you didn't mess with any functions after testing the sound, you should be all set already. Now, put the van in reverse. You should see the image! I don't see why you wouldn't! Right? You're basically substituting the camera feed with your gizmo feed, right? The only trick, is to somehow trigger the camera input on the RA2 without putting the van in reverse. If we can figure that out, we are in!!!

Of course you will be doing this at your own risk, but I really don't see how the van/radio could suffer any damage by doing these connections. We aren't messing with any raw 12V power...

Here's a switch I found that we may be able to incorporate into the equation:

https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT334/s2p-signal-to-power.html



Thoughts???
 

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Good work so far! Thanks. Now, if you can only trick the UC5 into thinking it's an ATV;)
 

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Tracy thanks for sharing all your work. You are even more geek obsessed than me! Glad I don't have my van yet, I'd be tempted to tear the dash apart :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm out here at the Oakland Coliseum preparing to tailgate for a couple hundred Raiders and Chiefs fans so I'm unable to continue the research for several hours. But I did pay for an answer to a question on Just ask.com and received a really detailed answer regarding the method in which the UC5 receives the camera trigger signal. Once I have time I'm going to ask some more particulars and we may have an answer for this very soon. Talk to you all soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tracy thanks for sharing all your work. You are even more geek obsessed than me! Glad I don't have my van yet, I'd be tempted to tear the dash apart :)
From what I understand, it takes all of about 30 seconds to pull it apart, literally! ;)
 

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Okay folks. I got a response from one of the major lockpick company's tech department and they said they may have a solution to our woes. Here's what they wrote:

Hi Trace,

Thanks for the email and detailed PDF's.

the backup camera is triggered by CAN messages, namely the reverse CAN message. we emulate this message in out product,
as you can see here:

https://navtv.com/media/products_file/2015/06/17/ProMASTER-CAM_Manual_rB3_2.pdf

This will allow you to force the camera in any gear and any speed; but with a small modification ( that will include an external video switch )
you could feed an external video signal when forcing the camera.

The only issue I see ( and I don't recall off the top of my head right now ) is that the radio may display a disclaimer text when in reverse.
Please get in touch with one of the PM owners on the forums, find one who already has a factory camera, and have him disconnect the camera video signal.
then have him shift the car in reverse and take a snapshot of the screen. if it will be completely dark ( no text or overlay ) then you can consider mission accomplished and our
ProMASTER-CAM will do the job for you ( with combination of a video switcher which we have as well)

Looking forward to hearing your results.
Is any one willing to try this?? Dang I wish I had my van, I'd be all over it!! Keep in mind that I am an electrical contractor, have an AAS in Computer Technology, have been doing car audio for myself and friends for 30+ years, and am pretty handy in repairing electronics. I once wrote an Xbox mod tutorial which basically was a "jailbreak" for the original Xbox...:nerd:

Anyway, if you're willing, here's what we need to do (remember, you need to have the OEM camera already installed in your van):

1) Access the rear camera wire harness located here in this picture:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5v5ohs84iyoitd4/Cam Harness location.jpg?dl=0

2) On the vehicle side of the connector, carefully slice the black sheathing from the wire group to expose 3" inches of the wiring.

3) Start the van and check that the camera is still working while in reverse. If you have a partner (or wheel chocks), just keep the van as is and move to the back of the van. While the harness is still connected, carefully clip the red wire. Make sure you are careful not to touch the chassis metal with the tool (dikes or similar) while doing this. We don't want it to short out! If you are by yourself, be sure to put a little bit of tape on each exposed end of the red wire to avoid a short!

4) Check to see what is displayed on the screen. Is it black with no text or guides? If so, we are in like flynn folks! If you see text or guides, it may not be the end of the world! But keep in mind that this unit costs $549!! I am still **** bent on making a DIY for us. Soooo, considering someone has gone this far. How about we continue the experimenting? $50 to $100 bucks to have all this awesomeness is much better than $600, right??

5) Okay. So now it's time to butt splice the red wire back together. Unless you think you can do it with the van running, go ahead and turn it off and splice it. Test the camera (running, in reverse, blah blah blah) to be sure it is back to normal.

6) Now use this file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/zb7jh3gefzz1cyg/Cam Harness Wiring.jpg?dl=0

Disconnect the connector and orient your harness (the side with the wires going toward the van, not the camera) so that it looks positioned exactly like the drawing. Double check that the PIN #2 is the one that is BLUE and GREEN. Go ahead and verify the colors of the other pins just to make sure everything jives. PIN #8 should be the black wire , and will be the ground wire.

7) With the connector disconnected and the van off, use a digital multimeter, select DC voltage, and touch the red meter lead to the #2 pin while touching the #8 ground with the black lead. You should have nothing. (BE SURE NOT TO TOUCH MORE THAN ONE PIN WITH THE SAME LEAD AT THE SAME TIME. NO SHORTS!) Now go and start the van and let it run while in PARK. Test #2 and #8 again. Do you get any measurable voltage? You shouldn't. Now go put it in reverse. Did you get anything? If you did WE ARE LOOKING SWEET! How many volts did it read? If you didn't get anything again, time to move to
the next step.

8) It's possible that the other camera leads need to be connected to get action out of the BLUE and GREEN (RUN RELAY CONTROL) wire. So this time, cut the BLUE and GREEN wire (like you did with the red wire in step 3) and strip just enough of the wire sheathing on both ends so that you can touch the copper with the test leads. Now go through the same procedures you did in step #7 for each side of the the BLUE and GREEN wire and record your findings. You will use a bolt or exposed chassis metal for your ground Instead of PIN #8 . Just MAKE SURE IT IS A GOOD GROUND or your results will be bogus! What voltage reading did you get for each of the three procedures on the van side of the wire? How about the camera side of the wire?

Just think of all the glory we will possess if we get this mod to work!!!!! SO come on, who wants to basque in the glory! :D
 

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Tracy,

I have a question: Why? >:D
A few comments:

I'm not sure what you gain by having your phone screen displayed on your van radio screen. They are both about the same size, the resolution and quality are better on your phone, and while you have the phone on the screen, you can't do anything else with it.

Why not just put a phone mount on the clipboard above the radio and get the best of both worlds. Getting the audio thru the van's speakers is easy. There's an audio input on the dash... or Bluetooth your way in.

As far as the video goes, others have figured out how to get the camera on the screen with just a simple switch that fakes the van's computer into thinking the back door is open and the video from the camera displays on the radio screen. Works well - I did it and I use it when I want to see what's going on behind my van! :D Of course, while you're faking out the CANBUS to let this happen, an error message is displayed on the DIC and it beeps once in a while.. OK for my use.

My other car is a Dodge Journey with an 8.4" screen. Putting a phone, video game, etc. into that is easy. There's a set of composite audio/video jacks in the console. And it looks great! But on a PM 5" low-res screen? I'm back to Why?

In addition, if you can get the video wired on a non-camera van, you will probably have to have the dealer activate the computer to act like there is one. I know this was discussed here on the forum, but I don't remember the response.

Final thought....

I think that you will discover that, in a Promaster, (almost) everything goes thru the computer. That makes it much more complicated for us DIYers.

Want to add fog lights? Get the parts, wire 'em, then.... go to the dealer and pay him to tell the computer you have fog lights!

Want to keep your van running while you get out and lock the doors? Sorry, the computer won't let you do that!

Just for the record, I'm willing to live with the "complications"... I really like my PM and would buy another if I was looking for a van. Not complaining, just noting that the days of simple car/van wiring are over!

Hope your wait is a short one,
Ed
 

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Umm... yeah... neat, but not interested.


As Ed mentions, have you actually seen the 5" screen? Its not that big, and not that sharp.


That... and for me, I have no need or interest to get a different video feed to that screen.




Have fun though, always curious to see what folks are doing differently.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
AWESOME! I finally have some feedback! Albeit not exactly the response I was looking for, but I'll take it ;) Thanks proeddie!

I'm not sure what you gain by having your phone screen displayed on your van radio screen
Well, I also have a BOYO digital TV tuner that I used in my C/V while waiting for inspectors, PG&E, etc. Pretty snazzy! So anything short of installing an aftermarket monitor for this purpose (theft bait too), I don't see an alternative.

while you have the phone on the screen, you can't do anything else with it
So the RVC mutes whatever you're listening to every time you back up?? If so, very LAME design!

As far as the video goes, others have figured out how to get the camera on the screen with just a simple switch that fakes the van's computer into thinking the back door is open and the video from the camera displays on the radio screen. Works well - I did it and I use it when I want to see what's going on behind my van!
The error messages would be pretty sucky for any extended period of time of use. However, it may be useful to know how you did it! Do you mind sharing? Thanks in advance!

have you actually seen the 5" screen? Its not that big, and not that sharp
No I haven't. However, being able to have the flexibility to use the screen for an alternate video source would be nice for me, regardless.
 

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This is what I did to make the camera come on whenever I wanted it to http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=64497&postcount=14
http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=64505&postcount=15

It works great, no messages on the screen, the side door lights go off after about 30 seconds, the door open light on the dashboard stays on but no big deal. I put a simple on/off rocker switch to turn it on or off.

Keep up your good work Tracy. This uConnect 5 is a real POS in my opinion and any mods we can discover and use can only improve it. The NAV is a real joke and I would discourage anyone from wasting their money on it! Mine came with it but I use my iPhone 6+ for navigation usually because it's simple, just works, voice thru the uConnect, and I can use iMaps or Google Maps as they are both excellent. The NAV is impossible to get working rapidly, very, very unintuitive, poor maps, bad directions and small. The screen on my phone is the same size as the uConnect 5 screen! I don't know why the NAV is so bad because Apple also uses TomTom but the experience is totally different. I primarily use the NAV when traveling in Canada as I don't have a data plan on my phone that includes Canada although I could d/l Google Maps now before I go I think.
 

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Awesome possum! :D

Where did you connect the wire coming off of the other side of the toggle switch? Ground? This was the only part of the equation that was holding me up! Thanks keeponvaning!

Yes, I opted to not pay for the navigation. Thank goodness!
 

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I would say the true quest is to get it replaced with an aftermarket unit. There are plenty that uses Mirrorcast, AndroidAuto, or Carplay with extra aux that cost $200 on up. Seems the cost of this workaround is approaching the cost of replacing with a better unit. Once someone can figure out how to get rid of the flashing odometer and loss of time & date programming then replacing the factory unit with aftermarket is the Holy Grail.
 

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Awesome possum! :D

Where did you connect the wire coming off of the other side of the toggle switch? Ground? This was the only part of the equation that was holding me up! Thanks keeponvaning!

Yes, I opted to not pay for the navigation. Thank goodness!
I seem to remember just cutting the camera trigger wire by the rear door (pass side) and then running a pair of wires to the switch in front and connecting the other ends of the wire to the two cut ends of the camera trigger wire. I can't say for sure but I think its just a ground.
 

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I know this isn't feedback nor helpful but I must say my head hurts reading this and I am so happy to have the UC3 so I cannot get sucked into this. I get excited that you're excited, rave on!
Luddite RD
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I know this isn't feedback nor helpful but I must say my head hurts reading this and I am so happy to have the UC3 so I cannot get sucked into this. I get excited that you're excited, rave on!
Luddite RD
LOL I have a headache too :laugh:

I just figure since I had to drop an extra $500 or so on the POS UC 5.0, I'd try to come up with some sort of cost effective solution, rather than the bukoo option of an aftermarket. Plus it's kinda fun ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
***UPDATED***


Okay folks. I got a response from one of the major lockpick company's tech department and they said they may have a solution to our woes. Here's what they wrote:



Is any one willing to try this?? Dang I wish I had my van, I'd be all over it!! Keep in mind that I am an electrical contractor, have an AAS in Computer Technology, have been doing car audio for myself and friends for 30+ years, and am pretty handy in repairing electronics. I once wrote an Xbox mod tutorial which basically was a "jailbreak" for the original Xbox...:nerd:

Anyway, if you're willing, here's what we need to do (remember, you need to have the OEM camera already installed in your van):

1) Access the rear camera wire harness located here in this picture:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5v5ohs84iyoitd4/Cam Harness location.jpg?dl=0

2) On the vehicle side of the connector, carefully slice the black sheathing from the wire group to expose 3" inches of the wiring.

3) Start the van and check that the camera is still working while in reverse. If you have a partner (or wheel chocks), just keep the van as is and move to the back of the van. While the harness is still connected, carefully clip the red wire. Make sure you are careful not to touch the chassis metal with the tool (dikes or similar) while doing this. We don't want it to short out! If you are by yourself, be sure to put a little bit of tape on each exposed end of the red wire to avoid a short!

4) Check to see what is displayed on the screen. Is it black with no text or guides? If so, we are in like flynn folks! If you see text or guides, it may not be the end of the world! But keep in mind that this unit costs $549!! I am still **** bent on making a DIY for us. Soooo, considering someone has gone this far. How about we continue the experimenting? $50 to $100 bucks to have all this awesomeness is much better than $600, right??

5) Okay. So now it's time to butt splice the red wire back together. Unless you think you can do it with the van running, go ahead and turn it off and splice it. Test the camera (running, in reverse, blah blah blah) to be sure it is back to normal.

6) Now use this file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/zb7jh3gefzz1cyg/Cam Harness Wiring.jpg?dl=0

Disconnect the connector and orient your harness (the side with the wires going toward the van, not the camera) so that it looks positioned exactly like the drawing. Double check that the PIN #2 is the one that is BLUE and GREEN. Go ahead and verify the colors of the other pins just to make sure everything jives. PIN #8 should be the black wire , and will be the ground wire.

7) With the connector disconnected and the van off, use a digital multimeter, select DC voltage, and touch the red meter lead to the #2 pin while touching the #8 ground with the black lead. You should have nothing. (BE SURE NOT TO TOUCH MORE THAN ONE PIN WITH THE SAME LEAD AT THE SAME TIME. NO SHORTS!) Now go and start the van and let it run while in PARK. Test #2 and #8 again. Do you get any measurable voltage? You shouldn't. Now go put it in reverse. Did you get anything? If you did WE ARE LOOKING SWEET! How many volts did it read? If you didn't get anything again, time to move to
the next step.

8) It's possible that the other camera leads need to be connected to get action out of the BLUE and GREEN (RUN RELAY CONTROL) wire. So this time, cut the BLUE and GREEN wire (like you did with the red wire in step 3) and strip just enough of the wire sheathing on both ends so that you can touch the copper with the test leads. Now go through the same procedures you did in step #7 for each side of the the BLUE and GREEN wire and record your findings. You will use a bolt or exposed chassis metal for your ground Instead of PIN #8 . Just MAKE SURE IT IS A GOOD GROUND or your results will be bogus! What voltage reading did you get for each of the three procedures on the van side of the wire? How about the camera side of the wire?

Just think of all the glory we will possess if we get this mod to work!!!!! SO come on, who wants to basque in the glory! :D
So after researching RVCs, it is apparent that they ALL need power to function. And according to this schematic:



the ONLY way for the stock camera to get power would be through this RUN RELAY CONTROL. So this is what I think is happening here:

The transmission sends a message to the BUS, which in turn closes the relay, sending power to the BLUE and GREEN wire, causing the camera to turn "on". Once the camera is turned "on", it sends the camera feed to the radio CAMERA SIGNAL input. Now here is what I am hoping: The radio has a low voltage input sensor that forces the camera screen to display on the radio once it senses a camera signal. Steps 6 -8 will help us determine this. If this is true, it will be much easier to wire up than the option keeponvanning has offered since it can all be done at the dash.
 

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Tracy,

Good to hear your comments....hoping you read my thoughts as an "I wouldn't do it" not a "you shouldn't do it"

The wire at the back of the van in the column that supports the rear passenger door, is about the third hole down when you take off the black trim cover.

The connector there has a white wire with a blue stripe. You don't need to cut it - just clamp or splice an additional wire to the one that's there. That spliced in wire, when grounded via a SPST switch fakes the computer into thinking that the back door is open, which turns on the backup camera on the radio screen.

As far as the camera power, I would get it from the 12V power outlet in the same back corner. It goes on and off with the van, so it will power the camera continuously, just like the factory camera.

"Now here is what I am hoping: The radio has a low voltage input sensor that forces the camera screen to display on the radio once it senses a camera signal.".... I don't think so. The way it seems to work is the the camera is on when the van is on, and it takes over the display when the shift is in reverse or the white/blue wire is grounded (ie. back door open)

I do note that as KOV says, the back light go on for a while, and the DIC displays an error message. On mine, the dash beeps quietly every time you accelerate from a stop. Not annoying though, and worth the trade off for a camera that is on when you want it to be.

Another interesting thing I've noticed.... you're in a parking lot, and start the van. You put it in reverse and the camera is displayed on the screen. You decide to turn the radio volume down while backing up... doesn't work! The volume and radio controls do not work while the camera video is on the screen! So, if the video feed to the screen is on all the time as in your application, I'm not sure that you could adjust anything that's playing (radio/media/aux input) at the time.

Worth more research to confirm some of the quirks of our canbus controlled Promasters!

ed
 

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No beeps on mine at all! I do think it's a ground wire tho. I can't ever remember the audio ever going off when I back up or have the camera switched on manually but I'll double check it tomorrow.
 
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