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My first regret:
I should have put up my wall and ceiling frame & furring strips before putting the polyiso foam board and gap foam in. Would have been way easier to fit that stuff around the furring, rather than the other way around. Alas...
For my walls & ceilings; I installed rivnuts & fabricated my ceiling & wall panels from prefinished birch plywood. Then removed it all & then insulated & then reinstalled the wall & ceiling panels.
 

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smartypants. ;)
I did lots wrong though, like a complete install of a hot water tank I decided after a few months use I didn’t like it as there was no way to drain it - so I ripped it out & put one in with a drain😳

The learning curve is steep, but the view once you get there is worth the climb
 

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2015 Promaster 2500 159" diesel
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Discussion Starter #104
Back on track - made what I could work by setting 1-3/8" and 1x3" frames on the inside edges of the mid-height panel sections and will cover with 1/4" sanded poplar plywood (shown in photo) for the wall areas. Then I will be using vinyl wall plank stickers to cover it that. This will save me at least an inch total in the bed area instead of furring strips with T&G panels on the face of the horizontal ribs. I am using some thinsulate I got to fill ribs and back the cab headliner to black out the edges of my bunk windows with a shadow box-like effect.

I am doing the pre-wiring now before I start mounting the walls and ceilings. Here is a picture of the 1x6" 12ft. rough-cut, "Ghostwood" barn finish shiplap I will be using for the ceiling. Was a little pricey at Home Depot, but I won't have to sand and stain anything, and the girlfriend liked it! I like the rough finish too.

62927
 

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2015 Promaster 2500 159" diesel
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Discussion Starter #105
Been chipping away with prewiring and doing some landscaping at the house in between my day job, so here's an actual update:

Quarantine-brain got to my wallet last week and I ordered two 100Ah Renogy 12v LiFePO batteries, Renogy's 50A DC-to-DC w/ MPPT (combo) charge controller, an AIMS 1500W inverter, and Victron bluetooth monitor. I've already done most of the pre-wiring for my LED ceiling and cabinet dome lighting, fan, fridge, H2O pump, and AC outlets, so it will be nice to be done with most of the major electrical components.

I have been brainstorming how I wanted to organize and store my electrical system, since I wanted to keep my system runs short and my solar panels are at the front of the van. I need "garage" space for surfboards, so I am putting everything into the overhead cargo shelf above the cab.

I stuck the batteries under the driver's seat like many folks do, and decided to build a vented box with handles for the other components that slides up into the overhead shelf. I'm mounting the main components to the bottom of the box and the distribution panel, main switches, and monitor to the face for easy display. Drill-cut in/out holes for system and load wires and two PC motherboard fans to circulate air in the smaller overhead area.

Going on a (dispersed) camping trip outside Vegas in two weeks, so I wired some skeleton electrical for the trip - a GFCI outlet for charging stuff into a 2-gang box with some dimmer switches for my ceiling LEDs.

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Sounds like a plan.

Welcome to the forum.

I have a small "van focused" electrical shop in Livermore. We sell various levels of electrical system kits - from minimalist to power plant.

Feel free to look at our web store or stop by.

I will warn you ahead of time that our components selection is based on performance and reliability, not on lowest cost.

Harry
Hi
 

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Back on track - made what I could work by setting 1-3/8" and 1x3" frames on the inside edges of the mid-height panel sections and will cover with 1/4" sanded poplar plywood (shown in photo) for the wall areas. Then I will be using vinyl wall plank stickers to cover it that. This will save me at least an inch total in the bed area instead of furring strips with T&G panels on the face of the horizontal ribs. I am using some thinsulate I got to fill ribs and back the cab headliner to black out the edges of my bunk windows with a shadow box-like effect.

I am doing the pre-wiring now before I start mounting the walls and ceilings. Here is a picture of the 1x6" 12ft. rough-cut, "Ghostwood" barn finish shiplap I will be using for the ceiling. Was a little pricey at Home Depot, but I won't have to sand and stain anything, and the girlfriend liked it! I like the rough finish too.

View attachment 62927
Hi
Really nice work! I am going to start framing my banquet seats which are very similar in design to yours. I am trying to stay as as close to the wheel well as possible (giant son in law). I don’t know if you got that far but how close to the top are you setting yours? I am trying to keep the mattress below the lowest horizontal rib....
I am really interested in getting the 20 Gal wheel well water tank made by Curious Campervan but I worry that it will raise my bed even more. Thoughts ? Also, how thick is your ceiling finished barn wood?
Thank you!
 

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Thank you, what a wealth of info!! I was going to use spare Romex my dad had left from building his house last year for most (all?) of the end loads. I am planning 4 total outlets, 2 GFIs. I am planning to use an AC/DC combined load center from Progressive Dynamics, which will be right next to the coach batteries and inverter in the overhead storage shelf above the cab. My DC-DC charger will be in that same shelf and the van battery is in the floor under the drivers seat so it's ~6-7ft to the charger. I have polyiso foam board, so no wires will be buried under insulation at least. Thank you for sharing all that.
I would be very careful about putting all that equipment in that compartment. That space gets warm enough from the sun. Most equipment will shut down on high temp if the internal cooling fans can't keep up.

Edit: later post shows you put in supplemental fans. Nice job.
 
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