From what I see, the Tern windows are not tinted. Is that an issue? Has anyone tinted them?I used the x900 because that was all that was available. I wish I had the 1100s. As you can see from my 500mm height, 550 would be a tiny bit too tall, so probably best to stick with 450s.
For all the hemming and hawing that I did, the windows were one of the easiest things to do.
Does anyone know the answer to this question? I thinking of ordering both sides... perhaps the thicker trim kit for the drivers side and the 35-44 kit for the slider? Isn't it better to be a little slimmer on that side with the slider? Also, anyone know about a set of terns on the rear doors, since my van doesn't have any glass there. Anyone put some terns on those? What trim is best on the rear?I am looking for tern window for my sliding door. Already see that a 450x1100 would fit but I am wondering as for the depth. I would like to order the 44-54 depth so that I get the maximum isolation that I can get... but I wonder if the sliding door would still open fine with the shade /*screen assembly over the window without getting stuck at the wall of the van... Any ideas ?
Thanks!
Are the windows tinted? Can I tint them?are they tinted as much as the factory rear glass is?
Have you tried asking Tern for guidance on the rattling? Maybe they've had others report this issue and offered advice?@marcksv I went with the thicker ones:
The window opening operation, shade and screen work great. However the shades and screens rattle a lot on our rough gravel road. I need to look at adding some kind of pads or bumpers to calm that rattling down.
Thanks for all your great help. How wide and thick is your wooden frame? Did you clamp the van's metal skin to the wood frame's side pieces? If so, how does the outside skin of the van look there? If not, did you use a thinker gasket? I've seen photos of no warpage and some with quite a bit of warpage. I'm thinking of going with the 450 x 1100 and am concerned with distorting the metal skin. I'm also thinking of using the 35-44mm metal ring. What do you think? Thanks!!!I used the x900 because that was all that was available. I wish I had the 1100s. As you can see from my 500mm height, 550 would be a tiny bit too tall, so probably best to stick with 450s.
For all the hemming and hawing that I did, the windows were one of the easiest things to do.
Can you clarify what window you used, the thickness and width of your wooden ring and what size metal interior ring also. Did clamping the van's metal skin to the wooden frames sides cause much distortion. A photo would be great if possible. Thanks!!!!@marcksv I went with the thicker ones:
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Adding Tern Overland Windows
We decided on Tern Overland windows for our ProMaster’s two sliding doors. We talk about the pros, cons, and a few ‘uh ohs’ getting these windows installed.vanmargrit.com
The windows clear the body well when opening the doors.
If I had to do it again (again) I think I would go with the thinner ones.
The thick ones worked out in the end, but between the thick wood frame combined with the screen & shade retractors make it a little more bulky than I'd like.
Keep in mind that the Tern is flat and the ProMaster is curved. In my case, I clamped and glued the ProMaster's body panel to the beefy, flat wood frame to force the body panel flat. Others have used a thicker gasket (hardware store weather stripping probably) to allow the flat Tern window to seal while keeping the ProMaster's body panel in its original curve.
The window opening operation, shade and screen work great. However the shades and screens rattle a lot on our rough gravel road. I need to look at adding some kind of pads or bumpers to calm that rattling down.
Overall, I'm happy with the Tern windows so far.
What thickness and width wooden ring did you make? How did you finish the door's interior siding? How much clearance do you have when the door is open? Thanks.450x1100mm window with the 34-44mm trim. I put it right in the slider.